Fightingpiper Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 I just added my first Farkle- some new mirrors. I couldn't justify spending $120 for 2 BMW mirrors nor do I like the looks of the bar-end style mirrors. I picked up 2 BikeMaster (#-601122)mirrors for $12.99 a piece. The only other thing I had to buy was a Tap-#10 1.25mm ($3) to thread the holes. I used the nut that came with the mirrors as it worked just fine-maybe want to use some locktight for good measure. In my opinion they look like they belong and follow the lines of the bike. They will not hit the stock windscreen in low position and the wheel turned all the way over. The only thing is it does hit my antenna slightly when I lock my wheel over. I only bought one last night just to see if it would work and when I stopped back this morning and bought the other. When I was installing the other, one of the parts guys came out and asked what mirrors I had on. He only new of recommending the BMW mirrors but actully like the looks of my setup better. Whole process took 15 minutes tops..... Link to comment
Draig Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 Congrats! An excellent solution, especially considering the cost. I installed the GS mirrors. While they work really well, they were expensive. Link to comment
Tony_K Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 That's so funny you took a photo of the tap and the mirror package! Totally a BMW type of personality right there. I have been to Leo's south. Nice place. Link to comment
dawn Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Timing is everything. Why couldn't you have posted this BEFORE I spent $150 on RS mirrors! Looks good. Let me know what you're going to do next. It may save me some $$. Link to comment
BeemerLover Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Hmm.... I've got RS mirrors on order. Restocking fee 20% so that is $25 which may be worth it. Got to find out where these are available in Charlotte. Note that JC Whitney has a bunch of mirrors available in 10 mm. Gael Link to comment
Effjay Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Hey Jeff, Your first RT farkle looks like a good solution -and- an economical one that looks good too! Personally, I haven't found a need for additional or aftermarket mirrors. Maybe due to Suburban bar risers moving bars and arms just a bit higher out of line-of-sight (see attachment - angle does not reflect view in riding position). I think convex spots attached to the RT mirrors will work for me. Jeff Link to comment
bobbybob Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Great solution--one question. Is it absolutely necessary to thread the hole? It appears there is an enlarged part of the shaft that might stop against the inside of the hole? Or not...? Link to comment
Fightingpiper Posted October 28, 2007 Author Share Posted October 28, 2007 You are probably correct and could just drill out the hole just big enough for the threads to go through. I used the tap as it gives a bit of height adjustment having it thtreaded. Link to comment
Dietrich Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Nice job! Now I'll go hunting for these mirrors here. Glad I did not go for the GS mirrors. I am always in favour of saving money on these kind of upgrades. Link to comment
BigEasy Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 OHHH My the horror; non BMW parts an a BMW Oh well they look great and make you happy, and saved a boat load of cash-cool Link to comment
JMR Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Jeff, Nice add-on! Just curious if vibration is an issue at all? Thanks. Link to comment
Fightingpiper Posted October 28, 2007 Author Share Posted October 28, 2007 There is a slight vibration so I probably can't read a license plate but I can tell the make/model of the vehicle behind me. I think any mirror on the bars of this bike are going to vibrate a bit but not really an issue. Link to comment
bowcop Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 Any idea if these will fit on a R1100 the way they fit your 1200? Thanks! Tim Link to comment
QuienSabe Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 The holes on my 2007 R1200RT seem to go into a hollow area with very little plastic to make threads for. Is that the case with yours? Link to comment
Fightingpiper Posted November 8, 2007 Author Share Posted November 8, 2007 There was a thin metal "nut" at the bottom which is what I threaded. I have not had any trouble with it coming loose. Also I have found that they actually vibrate less than the stock mirrors. I have been very happy with them. QuienSabe, Sorry, I don't know if they would fit the R1100, Don't know anyone who has one so I can't take a peak. Link to comment
Troper3 Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Wow, thats a great deal! Too bad I sold my RT Link to comment
bobanddianne Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 We appreciate the information. These mirrors look more attactive than any other aftermarket mirrors we've seen. Ours should show up next Tuesday, We'll let you know how they work out. Thanks, Bob & Dianne Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Due to total, complete mechanical ineptitude on my my part, I literally screwed the installation of these neat mirrors up and cannot install them. I am a complete idiot, and deserve ridicule for my stupidity. However, as always, someone will profit from another's idiocy: I'll send you both mirrors AND a complete 40 piece Harbor Freight metric tap and die set ($9.99 on sale, I looked everywhere for just the single needed tap, to no avail), for $30; I'll even pay the shipping. One mirror stem is slightly scratched up, but will not show once installed. Send me a PM. Link to comment
lthj75 Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I picked up 2 BikeMaster (#-601122)mirrors for $12.99 a piece. I looked online - just to clarify it looks like the right and left are different part numbers. Right = 601122 Left = 601123 Is that what you got? Link to comment
GoGo Gadget Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Cool, they gots all kinds o mirrors. http://www.cycleshopusa.com/p1862.htm Even some round ones that closely resemble the GS mirrors. Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I picked up 2 BikeMaster (#-601122)mirrors for $12.99 a piece. I looked online - just to clarify it looks like the right and left are different part numbers. Right = 601122 Left = 601123 Is that what you got? That's correct. Link to comment
Fightingpiper Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 Due to total, complete mechanical ineptitude on my my part, I literally screwed the installation of these neat mirrors up and cannot install them. I am a complete idiot, and deserve ridicule for my stupidity. However, as always, someone will profit from another's idiocy: I'll send you both mirrors AND a complete 40 piece Harbor Freight metric tap and die set ($9.99 on sale, I looked everywhere for just the single needed tap, to no avail), for $30; I'll even pay the shipping. One mirror stem is slightly scratched up, but will not show once installed. Send me a PM. Sorry but have to ask what went wrong? Link to comment
bobanddianne Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 We Did It We have installed the mirrors and BOTH of us are extemely happy with them... They offer a nice wide view that is a wonderful addition for Dianne up on the pillion. My initial installation was less than totally successful, but with an alternate hand crafted lock nuts installed, the mirrors are staying in perfect adjustment!! There is nothing I can add to the original pictures that are posted above. The mirrors work wonderfully well, We recommend them. Link to comment
lthj75 Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 My initial installation was less than totally successful, Can you explain the road blocks you hit and what you would have done different? Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Ah, Fighting Piper, you are a sadist, eh? Okay, I really DO deserve ridicule for my screw-up, or perhaps it's a screw-down. Got the mirrors from Iron Pony, shipped right away, by the way, and then spent an afternoon looking for the tap, ending up at Harbor Freight buying an entire set of metric taps and dies for $9.99, typical HF quality, certainly good enough for very occasional use. Hadn't ever used a tap before. Somehow managed to "waller" the tapping process out, so the mirrow went on at an angle, and wouldn't seat tightly. Rather than being sensible and using a nut on the bottom to act as a lock nut, my brain farted loudly and I opened the hole up to 12mm with the next larger tap (not having a drill bit) so I could simply drop the post in the hole and tighten it with the supplied nut. Uh, no, that won't work. At least, not with my level of moronity. So now I'm hoping to hear from bobanddianne about how they installed theirs; perhaps it will work for me. Meanwhile, I shall look forward to the future, rather than looking into the mirrors of my past. Or at least I'll try. You may now commence the ridiculing. Link to comment
Geraldh Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Received my mirrors last week but am having second thoughts about installing them if people more mechanically inclined than I am are having trouble.... Link to comment
Ken H. Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Received my mirrors last week but am having second thoughts about installing them if people more mechanically inclined than I am are having trouble.... Not to ridicule Mark too much but if you've ever used a tap you can do this. The secret to threading a hole with a tap successfully is for the hole to be the correct size to start with. The tap can remove very little material. Pay attention to the hole size chart and drill it out appropriately first if needed. Then use lots of cutting oil on the tap as you slowly work it in. Stop and a back up 1/2 a turn frequently to clear the threads as you go and you've be fine. Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Received my mirrors last week but am having second thoughts about installing them if people more mechanically inclined than I am are having trouble.... Not to ridicule Mark too much but if you've ever used a tap you can do this. The secret to threading a hole with a tap successfully is for the hole to be the correct size to start with. The tap can remove very little material. Pay attention to the hole size chart and drill it out appropriately first if needed. Then use lots of cutting oil on the tap as you slowly work it in. Stop and a back up 1/2 a turn frequently to clear the threads as you go and you've be fine. Yeah, to assume I have ANY mechanical skills is to err mightily. Had I known to drill the hole out, I might not be in this particular pickle jar. Can't wait to find out what bobanddianne did to get nuts to squeeze up into those tight spaces. On the other hand, my offer to send the mirrors and tap/die set stands. I scratched up the one I was attempting to install, but it was just the post, almost all of which would have been hidden, but I went ahead and painted it with matching black epoxy paint. Link to comment
bobanddianne Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 So now I'm hoping to hear from bobanddianne about how they installed theirs; perhaps it will work for me. Meanwhile, I shall look forward to the future, rather than looking into the mirrors of my past. Or at least I'll try. We are overwhelmed with today's activities, but will post an abreviated description late this evening, Los Angeles time. Our variation should allow you to have functional mirrors, even after enlarging the mounting hole. Link to comment
Fightingpiper Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 Ah, Fighting Piper, you are a sadist, eh? Okay, I really DO deserve ridicule for my screw-up, or perhaps it's a screw-down. Rather than being sensible and using a nut on the bottom to act as a lock nut, my brain farted loudly and I opened the hole up to 12mm with the next larger tap (not having a drill bit) so I could simply drop the post in the hole and tighten it with the supplied nut. Uh, no, that won't work. At least, not with my level of moronity. You may now commence the ridiculing. After I threaded the hole, I used the nut that came with the mirrors to act as my lock nut. If I remember correctly I think I found a threaded "sleave" that fit snuggly in the hole so it would hold the mirror upright and you could use a nut on the bottom to tighten. I was going to use it if my tapping of the threads did not work. I'll try and see if I can find it at the local hardware store. We may be able to salvage this for ya. Link to comment
bobanddianne Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 So now I'm hoping to hear from bobanddianne about how they installed theirs; perhaps it will work for me. The explanation turned out to be much more/longer/extended than expected. There may be a better way to do this, but at least this will get the mirrors mounted in a manner for them to solidly stay in adjustment. You will find it as the attachment at the top NO YOU WON'T The site didn't like my MSWord file and will not except it. If you will be so kind as to e-mail me at: bobanddianne@earthlink.net I will promptly send it directly to you. They are too long to try to type into the little window provided on the site. We love the mirrors and feel they are more than worth the effort. Link to comment
Geraldh Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 Here's Bob's installation procedure: ======================================= RT Mirror Installation My initial installation was not a total success. With the mirror in place, there was no way to properly lock it in place. After some experimentation, I ended up with a solid locking system that has held up perfectly for over 600 miles. The original information I had was to tap the bottom floor of the handlebar mount with a 10mm by 1.25mm tap, which coincides with the threads on the mirror. Because of the length of the mounting hole, inserting the tap from the top will cause the threads to line up properly/straight into the base of the mount. In order to thread the mirror down into the base of the mount, I needed to remove the tapered nut/sleeve combination that is screwed onto the top of the threaded section. It needs to be removed because it is too large a diameter to go into/down the mounting hole. At this point, I ran into a problem because the arm/shaft of the mirror was too short for the threads to bottom out on the base inside the mounting hole. Without the threads bottoming out, there was no way to tighten the mirror down with a nut on the bottom side to hold it in place. What I wanted was a nut to be threaded up onto the threads of the support arm/shaft that would bottom out when the mirror was screwed back into the mount. However, a regular nut was too large to go into the hole. My solution was to take a 10x1.25 nut and modify it to fit down the hole of the mount. This was done by taking a two-inch 10x1.25 bolt that had an unthreaded section of almost an inch long. After sawing the head off the bolt, I chucked the unthreaded section of the bolt up into my electric drill. Now I threaded two nuts onto the bolt side by side. I tightened the nuts together against each other so they would not turn on the threads as I ground them down. I was able to do this by using the drill and holding the nuts against my bench mounted belt sander. With both the drill and the sander running, the nuts were cut down to a concentric diameter that was small enough to now go down the hole in the mount. I used the reversible feature on my drill to have the nuts spinning in the direction opposite to the belt sander in order to achieve maximum abrasion for ‘grinding’. When doing a trial fitting with the cut down nut threaded on the mirror (all the way on so it is up against the end of the threads on the ‘shaft’ of the mirror). I found that the threads couldn’t thread into the base of the mounting hole far enough for the mirror to line up properly yet. I unthreaded the mirror and took the nut off. I measured the thickness with my micrometer so I would have a reference point to work from. Then I remounted the nut back on the threaded bolt section on my drill. I mounted it right near the end this time, and with the other nut tightened up against it to hold it firmly in place. This allowed me to use the belt sander to sand down the thickness of the nut. I had to estimate the amount I needed to sand off in order to have the mirror turned the correct amount when I remounted it on the bike. This time it was very close to being correctly turned. After removing the mirror from the bike, I repeated the above operation one more time. I ground the thousandths of an inch off, screwed it back onto the mirror, mounted the mirror back on the bike, and low and behold… it was a perfect fit. Hallelujah. When I went to put a nut on the bottom to lock the mirror in place, the next complication arose. It shouldn’t be any surprise to find a regular nut wouldn’t fit into the mount from the bottom either. I took a long ‘connecting/junction’ nut (about four or five times longer than a regular nut). And, of course, there were additional complications. The only junction nut I could find had a 10x1.5 thread… not the 10x1.25 that the mirror threads are. Not too much to worry about. I just took the 10x1.25 tap I bought to tap the base of the handlebar mount and ‘re’ tapped the junction nut. It is the equivalent to cross-threading the junction nut, but it leaves enough thread to work on the 10x1.25 threads of the mirror. In order to attach this nut from the bottom, I now mounted it on the bolt section that was still on my drill. Rather than grind down the whole nut, I only tapered one end of it so it would enter the bottom of the mount. By only tapering one end, that left the other end as a regular nut that could still be tightened with a standard metric socket wrench. I put it on, tightened it, and was finished… With the left side. The good news was… The second side went faster now that I had some practice. Link to comment
Dave_in_TX Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 I have no idea how the OP was able to use the original nuts (I assume as lock nuts). I tapped the holes correctly but there isn't enough thread exposed at the bottom after the mirrors are screwed in to get a nut on. The bend of the mirror stem prevents going any further. Link to comment
Heywood Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 Nice indeed.....but if you need more rearview mirrors, you're riding too slow. Link to comment
Fightingpiper Posted December 1, 2007 Author Share Posted December 1, 2007 I have no idea how the OP was able to use the original nuts (I assume as lock nuts). I tapped the holes correctly but there isn't enough thread exposed at the bottom after the mirrors are screwed in to get a nut on. The bend of the mirror stem prevents going any further. I don't know what I did differently but I had enough threads exposed through the bottom to use the original nut (with some lock tight) as my lock nut on the bottom. Mirrors haven't moved for 2000 miles. It looks like my final miles until spring as we are supposed to get up to 10 inches of snow today.... Link to comment
Fajah Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 Ah, Fighting Piper, you are a sadist, eh? Okay, I really DO deserve ridicule for my screw-up, or perhaps it's a screw-down. Got the mirrors from Iron Pony, shipped right away, by the way, and then spent an afternoon looking for the tap, ending up at Harbor Freight buying an entire set of metric taps and dies for $9.99, typical HF quality, certainly good enough for very occasional use. Hadn't ever used a tap before. Somehow managed to "waller" the tapping process out, so the mirrow went on at an angle, and wouldn't seat tightly. Rather than being sensible and using a nut on the bottom to act as a lock nut, my brain farted loudly and I opened the hole up to 12mm with the next larger tap (not having a drill bit) so I could simply drop the post in the hole and tighten it with the supplied nut. Uh, no, that won't work. At least, not with my level of moronity. So now I'm hoping to hear from bobanddianne about how they installed theirs; perhaps it will work for me. Meanwhile, I shall look forward to the future, rather than looking into the mirrors of my past. Or at least I'll try. You may now commence the ridiculing. There is a great product out there called helicoil and basically it is used to take care of a wallered out situation. You can find these at the local auto parts store. You tap the wallered out hole to a lager size then screw in the helicoil what has the right inside thread for you. Once again, you tap out the whole big enough for the helicoil OD and the ID of the helicoil needs to match your mirrors. Mo money. Link to comment
Fightingpiper Posted December 1, 2007 Author Share Posted December 1, 2007 Ok I risked life and limb today (ok a bit of exaggeration)to venture out to the garage during our blizzard to take a snap shot of the nut on the bottom of the left mirror. While fighting off the frost bite I also found the aluminum spacer I was going to use if the threading didn't work. I didn't end up using the spacer but I beleive it would fit the hole if you applied just a little bit of "persuasion". I don't remember what size the spacer is but I can run to the hardware store tomorrow and find out. I also found out that when I removed the mirror I had spun it around a few times even after the rubber of the mirror began to hit resivoir cover and thats how I got plenty of threads to stick out the bottom. You can also remove the rubber on the mirror if its in your way. The Nut locking mirror in place, as you see threads almost out bottom of nut. (nut came with mirror) Picture of mirror, aluminum spacer and nut Spacer and Nut on mirror Again I didn't use the spacer but I believe it would work. YMMV Good Luck! Link to comment
lthj75 Posted December 2, 2007 Share Posted December 2, 2007 I have a V-stream windshield...hopefully these mirrors will work with it. I'll report back. Link to comment
Dave_in_TX Posted December 2, 2007 Share Posted December 2, 2007 I have no idea how the OP was able to use the original nuts (I assume as lock nuts). I tapped the holes correctly but there isn't enough thread exposed at the bottom after the mirrors are screwed in to get a nut on. The bend of the mirror stem prevents going any further. I don't know what I did differently but I had enough threads exposed through the bottom to use the original nut (with some lock tight) as my lock nut on the bottom. Mirrors haven't moved for 2000 miles. It looks like my final miles until spring as we are supposed to get up to 10 inches of snow today.... I'm thinking that if I remove the clutch/brake fluid resovoir covers temporarily I might be able to thread the mirrors in further. Link to comment
Hansi Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 Hei What is the name of the manufacturer? I don`t find the right BikeMaster shop. Hansi Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 Hei What is the name of the manufacturer? I don`t find the right BikeMaster shop. Hansi The mirrors are made in Taiwan; I assume they are only sold in the U. S. under the Bikemaster name. You would probably be better off buying BMW mirrors by the time you paid shipping from a U. S. retailer to Norway. The manufacturer is Ken-Sean, or Ken-Shen. The main web page is http://www.kensean.com.tw/ The left mirror has this information stamped into the body: KEN-SEAN-009R E13-L 000014 Good luck. Link to comment
Fightingpiper Posted December 4, 2007 Author Share Posted December 4, 2007 Hei What is the name of the manufacturer? I don`t find the right BikeMaster shop. Hansi Found under Bikemaster supersport mirrors in the U.S. Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Okay, I gave up on this, after totally screwing not one, but BOTH sides of the attempt up. The mirrors are undamaged, as new, it was my ego that was damaged, along with an unnecessary increase in the size of the threaded holes I made. As far as I can tell, anyone on the planet who is not markgoodrich can do this farkle blindfolded upside down in a snow storm. I'll send you both mirrors, a complete 40-odd piece metric tap and die set (very low mileage), and the very necessary extension "wrenches" (made in India) for the low, low total cost of $30, which is what I paid for just the mirrors, delivered. I will guarantee the mirrors are as new, or I'll give you ALL your money back and you can keep the stupid things and the tap and die set. I'll send it all UPS, at my expense. This is about fifty bucks worth of stuff, plus shipping. Send me a PM. Link to comment
alimar Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 It's been a while so perhaps that's why all of the pics are gone. Would anyone care to post a few pics so I can get an idea on the looks of the various options? BikeMaster, BMW RS bikes, etc? Thanks! Link to comment
Fightingpiper Posted February 18, 2008 Author Share Posted February 18, 2008 Sorry but my server bit the dust a while ago and I havn't had the time to try and fix it. I will try and get the pics reposted for ya later on today. Link to comment
Wink Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 I gotta jump in here and say I appreciate the tips on these mirrors. I baulked at the BMW mirrors because of the price. It was something that ended up a little lower on my list. With these mirrors and information I jumped in and ordered a set for my '05 RT. I hope I can figure it out to. I really think I can. No...really...I think I can. Link to comment
Wink Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 My mirrors came in the mail the other day and I just got done mounting them according to your instructions. I got the same ones you recomended. I drilled the hole out with an 11/32 bit and threaded the bottom with an M10 1.25 tap. I put a short piece of surgical tubing around the tap to help keep it centered as I turned it in. Then I removed the clutch fluid cover and screwed in the mirror shaft. I had to go way down to finally get enough threads sticking out of the bottom of the hole to start the tapered nut but I got it to catch and tightened it with a 14 mm socket. I did the same thing on the right side. All seemed tight enough and I climbed on board and adjusted the mirrors. It looks like they should work well but I will have to wait and see. Thanks so much for the tips and proper directions. (I now have some more tools in the garage too. ) ô¿~ Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.