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Just bought an RT, have throttle body questions!


BeemerLover

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Closed on an '07 RT last Friday. Took the tupperware off last weekend to look around. Nice!

 

It has 7,200 miles. According to the owners manual BMW did the 600 and 6,000 mile services.

 

It is buzzy and "hunts" at idle. I want to fix these things.

 

I will run it hard this weekend. That always helped my R1200C and may help or cure the problems.

 

If it doesn't then I need to set the valves and do a throttle body sync. Doing the valves seems to be essentially be the same as on the "C". Yes? No?

 

Questions:

 

Can I use the ATF in the clear plastic hose instead of the twin max? Worked on the "C", don't want to buy a twin max unless I need to. I would sync until the fluid is at the same level for each throttle body.

 

Would someone look at the attached picture file and tell me what I unplug to disable the stepper motors and what I adjust to set the sync? The pic is of the right hand throttle body.

 

On the left side, when I pull off the hose on the vacuum nipple do I plug the hose it or leave it open?

 

As I do the throttle body adjust will I feel the vibrations smooth out?

 

Thanks in advance for your help. This forum really helped me make a decision to buy this bike. Again, thinks!

 

Gael

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Don_Eilenberger
Closed on an '07 RT last Friday. Took the tupperware off last weekend to look around. Nice!

 

It has 7,200 miles. According to the owners manual BMW did the 600 and 6,000 mile services.

 

It is buzzy and "hunts" at idle. I want to fix these things.

Likely from non-use - stale gas. Run through a tank before fidding with anything.

 

I will run it hard this weekend. That always helped my R1200C and may help or cure the problems.

 

If it doesn't then I need to set the valves and do a throttle body sync. Doing the valves seems to be essentially be the same as on the "C". Yes? No?

Yes

 

Questions:

 

Can I use the ATF in the clear plastic hose instead of the twin max? Worked on the "C", don't want to buy a twin max unless I need to. I would sync until the fluid is at the same level for each throttle body.

Should work.

Would someone look at the attached picture file and tell me what I unplug to disable the stepper motors and what I adjust to set the sync? The pic is of the right hand throttle body.

Don't bother disconnecting them. Some of us have tried it with them connected and disconnected - it really makes no difference. IF the valves are adjusted right - the engine computer actually does a balance of the TB's at idle (and controls the cold idle speed..) using the stepper motor controlled bypass air passages. NO adjustment is available or necessary at idle. You can balance the TB's above idle speed (I generally try for around 1,500 RPM - it's most sensitive there) - but in my experience, the TBs don't drift out of sync like the older ones on the R11 bikes did.

On the left side, when I pull off the hose on the vacuum nipple do I plug the hose it or leave it open?

Open. Won't hurt anything.

As I do the throttle body adjust will I feel the vibrations smooth out?

At idle? Prolly not.. since idle is controlled by the computer.

Thanks in advance for your help. This forum really helped me make a decision to buy this bike. Again, thinks!

 

Gael

Have fun!

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Thanks, Don! That is exactly what I needed except what on the right side do I adjust? My inclination is the cable with the lock down screw but I don't want to get anything else out of adjustment. Do I adjust that? About the smooth out when I adjust I was thinking of 3,500 to 4,000 rpm as that seems to be the buzzy rpm. I am used to adjusting 4 barrel carbs where you can hear the difference immediately.

 

Gael

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I am still relatively new to my R12RT too. I felt the same buzzy, vibes that you may be feeling.

 

I think the best advice is to do nothing except run it good. I really blasted mine to and from Torrey and the "after" feeling is like a different bike.

 

Good luck, and in the mean time... go to ebay or where ever you like and buy the BMW DVD on the bike. It will give a lot of information on many tune up and maintenance procedures.

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Don't bother disconnecting them. Some of us have tried it with them connected and disconnected - it really makes no difference.
I happen to disagree. I don't have time to type it all again, but a search will find my arguments pro disconnecting them.

 

Disconnect both sides prior to doing a sync:

 

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