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Tupperware removal


car61

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Posted

Anyone have the procedure for removing the tupperware on 06 RT. Need to install an additional power socket.

Posted

I had printed off the instructions from Touratech that someone had linked to once. It was easier to simply start removing screws than read the instructions. Much easier than my '04. Take the tank bracket off then just follow the perimeter of the plastic.

Posted

The "Tupperware" on the 12RT consists of 4 separate panels, 2 on the each side,1 upper and 1 lower. The left side is easy and is pretty much as GGG has indicated, just keep removing screws. There are two screws on the bottom of the upper panel in the recessed ledge between the top and bottom panels. Also there are two screws below the radiator on the inside of the leading edge of the faring. These would be the only tricky screws to find. There is also a plastic knob with a flat edge (to allow turning) that must be worked prior to removing the bottom panel.

 

The right side is a little tricky because you must also remove the hinged door on the "glove box". Open the door and there are screws that must be removed. There is also two screws that afix the hinge and are unscrewed from the side (top panel must be removed prior to accessing these screws).

 

Hope this helps.

Posted

Pay attention to what you are doing. I always seem to end up with an extra screw when I put the plastic back on, yet am unable to find any empty holes. One day I might end up with a full set....

Posted

What are the torque values for the tupper screws? I don't see any in the repair manual--does that mean to hand-tighten as you see fit? I'm sure using loc-tite is a no-no.

Posted

I don't torque screws when reinstalling the fairing. I think you would go nuts in that process. I just give a good snug twist and have had no problems with screws coming loose...not to say I don't have a loose screw, or two. lmao.gif

Posted
What are the torque values for the tupper screws? I don't see any in the repair manual--does that mean to hand-tighten as you see fit? I'm sure using loc-tite is a no-no.

 

Tight

Ian smile.gif

Posted
Pay attention to what you are doing. I always seem to end up with an extra screw when I put the plastic back on, yet am unable to find any empty holes. One day I might end up with a full set....
Each time I take a pannel off,I put the screws for that panel in a papper cup and put that cup with the panel,,That way when you put it back togeather,if you have an extra screw,,you know witch panel it goes to,,Puting all your eggs(screws)in one basket,it seems you well alwess have a screw left over dopeslap.gif
Posted
What are the torque values for the tupper screws? I don't see any in the repair manual--does that mean to hand-tighten as you see fit? I'm sure using loc-tite is a no-no.

 

Tight

 

But...not TOO tight

Ian smile.gif

dopeslap.gif

Funny the first time I loosened the panels (for TBsynch, not neccasarry to remove, just slid a tennis ball between the right side panels), I had one extra screw that I found a place for after the second TB synch...Go figure. thumbsup.gif

Dave McReynolds
Posted

For some reason, some of the screws are longer than others. I don't know if this is for some reason, or maybe they just ran out of a particular size when they were assembling the bikes. I didn't bother to match up the longer screws with the original holes, and so far the thing seems to be holding together, but if you are concerned about such things, you might want to take note as you disassemble.

 

It's pretty easy to strip the threads on the nuts, so I wouldn't raunch to hard on them when you're tightening them, but on the plus side, all the nuts are easily replaceable, so it's not really a big deal if you do strip one.

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