R1100RT - Finding FREEKIN TDC

[SWB]

TDC is not a revolutionary concept for me, but it just doesn't seem to "work" like the manuals describe when applied to my Beemer. I'm attempting my second ever Beemer valve adjustment (second in 5 miles; betcha can't guess why I'm doing it again), and am having problems confirming TDC Compression.

 

• I've pulled my plugs, both valve covers, the timing hole rubber plug, and the alternator belt cover.
   
  
• I cranked the crankshaft clockwise (facing the bike) while watching the flywheel through the timing hole.
   
  
• I put a screwdriver in the right cylinder, and watched it travel into the cylinder as the piston moved and then back out.
   
  
• At the point where the screwdriver reaches the maximum extension, as I understand it, the bike is at TDC. Then I'm supposed to check on which side the valves are loose, and that side is at TDC compression. Then repeat the process for the other side.
   
  
• The problem I keep having is that when the screwdriver is at maximum extension, i.e. the piston on the right side is at it's maximum upper stroke, the flywheel still does NOT read "OT". I have to continue around, and then the Z, S, and finally OT appear. By that time, both pistons have returned into their respective cylinder positions (i.e. the screwdriver extends an equal distance from the pistons in both cylinders).
   
  
• When the right cylinder is presumably at TDC on it's compression stroke, the valves are somewhat loose (but not as loose as when the piston is extended), and the exhaust valves on the left side are also a bit loose.
  

 

I had similar problems trying to line up the static timing when I rebuilt my HES. I'm beginning to wonder if there isn't an installation problem, i.e. that the timing chains were installed way out of whack with the fly wheel. I'm not sure if that's mechanically possible.

 

I'm thinking that I need to ignore the flywheel timing marks (which should be Gospel), and just use the relative positions of the pistons as the timing guide.

 

Thanks in advance, for your suggestions.

 

Scott

[SteveHebert]

Scott,

 

There is an arrow etched into the sprocket/gear that the timing chains ride on. You can rotate the tire until the arrow is pointing perpendicular to the floor and facing away from the bike. That is another way of finding TDC. It is fast and easy.

[Mr. Frank]

Scott,

 

There is an arrow etched into the sprocket/gear that the timing chains ride on. You can rotate the tire until the arrow is pointing perpendicular to the floor and facing away from the bike. That is another way of finding TDC. It is fast and easy.

 

I think you meant parallel to the floor, pointing outward.

[Stan Walker]

It sounds like the flywheel MIGHT be installed incorrectly. I'm not sure if that's even possible!!

 

This would make me very nervous. Engine timing for the HAL Sensors is set off the flywheel TDC mark. The auxilary shaft timing chain and both cam chains all need to be set to work together.

 

Edited to add the following. The flywheel has a pin on it that should prevent the flywheel from being installed in anything other than the correct alignment. Of course if that pin were missing....... or a non-stock flywheel were installed....

 

Stan

[SWB]

Engine timing for the HAL Sensors is set off the flywheel TDC mark.

I couldn't get static timing to line up between the HAL plate and the flywheel. Couldn't even get close. So, I reinstalled to the original position based on marks I made before removing the HES.

 

The auxilary shaft timing chain and both cam chains all need to be set to work together.

If something was installed incorrectly, this is the concern.

 

Edited to add the following. The flywheel has a pin on it that should prevent the flywheel from being installed in anything other than the correct alignment. Of course if that pin were missing....... or a non-stock flywheel were installed....

OEM flywheel, which I installed myself during my clutch/tranny work. (I went ahead and checked the engine rear seals, too, while I was in there, and ended up replacing both).

 

The flywheel was near idiot-proof to install. There's a pin that matches a hole on the flywheel. I don't think it'd be possible to install it without lining up that pin.

 

So, the drive shaft chain, chain wheel, and pistons are the only place things could have gone wrong, and I haven't opened up this engine (yet). Reading through the manual, there are reference marks on the timing chainwheel and sprocket which should match at TDC. There are several other reference points that need to be lined up.

 

I am nervous. But, on the other hand, this bike has 57K on it, and runs pretty good now. It seemed the TDC was about 7 degrees off when I was trying to line up the static timing mark with the HES, and that error seems consistent now. Maybe tuning it using the piston position for TDC will be adequate for setting the valves.

 

The local BMW dealer service didn't mention a problem when they did my last tune up, and of course, many other service guys have worked on this bike.

[russell_bynum]

The problem I keep having is that when the screwdriver is at maximum extension, i.e. the piston on the right side is at it's maximum upper stroke, the flywheel still does NOT read "OT". I have to continue around, and then the Z, S, and finally OT appear. By that time, both pistons have returned into their respective cylinder positions (i.e. the screwdriver extends an equal distance from the pistons in both cylinders).

 

Correct me if I'm wrong...but I believe both pistons move together. i.e. if the left is at the top of its stroke, the right is at the top of its stroke. So...the screwdriver should ALWAYS protrude the same distance from both spark plug holes.

[SWB]

The problem I keep having is that when the screwdriver is at maximum extension, i.e. the piston on the right side is at it's maximum upper stroke, the flywheel still does NOT read "OT". I have to continue around, and then the Z, S, and finally OT appear. By that time, both pistons have returned into their respective cylinder positions (i.e. the screwdriver extends an equal distance from the pistons in both cylinders).

 

Correct me if I'm wrong...but I believe both pistons move together. i.e. if the left is at the top of its stroke, the right is at the top of its stroke. So...the screwdriver should ALWAYS protrude the same distance from both spark plug holes.

 

Hmm.. you may be right. I assumed that they were reciprocal, and I'm only looking at one side of the bike. Back out to the garage for some more trial and error.

[smiller]

As Russell noted, both pistons will come to TDC at the same time. I'm not sure that your initial post is even describing a problem... seems OK to me, other than you may need to get the valve clearances properly adjusted. Cross-check against the alignment marks on the cam drive gear but I think you'll find everything normal.

[SWB]

As Russell noted, both pistons will come to TDC at the same time. I'm not sure that your initial post is even describing a problem... seems OK to me, other than you may need to get the valve clearances properly adjusted. Cross-check against the alignment marks on the cam drive gear but I think you'll find everything normal.

 

The main issue is that when the piston is at the top of it's stroke, i.e. screwdriver is completely out, the timing mark on the flywheel hasn't reached the "OT" position. It requires more of a crackshaft turn, 7% or more, to get to the OT mark, and by that time, the piston has moved from the top of it's stroke to near the bottom of it's stroke. If the the engine can be at TDC with the piston not at the top of it's stroke, then I am indeed mistaken and confused (won't be the first or last time).

 

Ed's previous comments on the subject may be quite helpful.

 

Thanks.

[SWB]

Ignoring the flywheel timing marks, and watching for both the top/highest stroke of the piston and the horizontal (in reference to the ground) index mark on the cam chain sprocket seems to yield the best results.

 

Thanks .. all.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Couple of things might be causing you this grief.

 

1. Piston movement per degree of crankshaft rotation is very much NOT LINEAR. The 10 or so degrees of crank rotation at or around TDC will yield very little movement of the piston. When using a chop stick (screwdrivers can scratch piston tops or worse, knock a bit of carbon loose to subsequently lodge in an exhaust seat) I like to rotate the crank till I can feel the piston just start to move downward. That is just my preference, you can work with the screwdriver ceasing movement as well. The relationship between cam timing and the crankshaft will have the lifters on the base circle of the cam for around 30 degrees of crank rotation on either side of TDC. So long as you are on the base circles, valve clearance adjustment will be OK to perform and is not effected by crank position. Ignition timing is another matter.

 

2. Not a reason but a technique. While turning the crankshaft, observe the action of the intake rocker arms. When you are on the compression stroke, the intake valves will be closing as the piston departs BDC and heads up the bore. Now you have identified the compression stroke.

 

If I'm being lazy and/or can't find my chop stick, I just adjust the exhaust valves when the intakes just close, rotate the crank a bit more, watching the exhaust valves and when they crack open, adjust the intakes. Repeat on the other side and you are done. Been doing it this way for years upon years.

[DrPaul]

The problem I keep having is that when the screwdriver is at maximum extension, i.e. the piston on the right side is at it's maximum upper stroke, the flywheel still does NOT read "OT". I have to continue around, and then the Z, S, and finally OT appear. By that time, both pistons have returned into their respective cylinder positions (i.e. the screwdriver extends an equal distance from the pistons in both cylinders).

 

Correct me if I'm wrong...but I believe both pistons move together. i.e. if the left is at the top of its stroke, the right is at the top of its stroke. So...the screwdriver should ALWAYS protrude the same distance from both spark plug holes.

 

I believe that both pistons reach TDC together. However, one is on the compression stroke (all valves closed) while the other is on the exhaust stroke (exhaust valves open). The cam chain sprocket arrow tells you which is side is at TDC on the compression stroke as this is where you set the valves. The rockers will be somewhat loose as well.

[SteveHebert]

Scott,

 

There is an arrow etched into the sprocket/gear that the timing chains ride on. You can rotate the tire until the arrow is pointing perpendicular to the floor and facing away from the bike. That is another way of finding TDC. It is fast and easy.

 

I think you meant parallel to the floor, pointing outward.

 

Thank you for correcting me on that. Parallel indeed. I know what I wanted to say, but the fingers got ahead of me...

[Jake]

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

I believe that both pistons reach TDC together. However, one is on the compression stroke (all valves closed) while the other is on the exhaust stroke (exhaust valves open). The cam chain sprocket arrow tells you which is side is at TDC on the compression stroke as this is where you set the valves. The rockers will be somewhat loose as well.

 

Both pistons do reach TDC together. But the cam sprocket arrows do not tell you which cylinder is at TDC ignition; the cam sprockets (on the 1100 bikes, at least) each have two arrows, 180 degrees apart. Once you have the arrows horizontal, you will still have to feel the rocker arms to make sure they have lash in them before you begin checking/adjusting.

 

FWIW, the engine does not need to be exactly at TDC for valve adjust. The valves are fully closed from at least half way through the compression stroke until halfway through the expansion stroke. TDC +- 90 degrees on the crank corresponds to TDC +- 45 degrees on the camshaft; IOW, if the cam sprocket arrows are anywhere near horizontal, the valves are on the cam lobes’ base circles, and you can go ahead with check/adjustment.

 

For finding TDC, here’s what I do:

 

1. pull rocker cover (do not pull spark plug, do not pull alt belt cover, do not pull flywheel inspection port plug).

2. put gearbox in top gear.

3. turn rear wheel by hand. You are watching/feeling for the following sequence:

 

a. exhaust valves (at front of cylinder) open; this starts exhaust stroke.

b. Exh valves close, intake valves (at rear of cylinder) open; this starts the intake stroke.

c. Intake valves close; this starts compression stroke.

d. Feel the resistance of compression as you turn the wheel; when the resistance suddenly goes away, you should be at TDC-ignition. Go check the cam sprocket arrows (and feel for valve lash) to confirm.

 

It takes some effort to turn the rear wheel, but IMO it's easier/less tedious than pulling/reinstalling spark plugs, alt belt covers, and flywheel port plugs.

[SWB]

Thank's Mitch. I used the "wheel" method first time I did the valve adjustment, because I couldn't get the timing cover off. I split it so that it'd be easy to remove, so of course, now I HAVE to remove it to turn the crank.

 

I used the opening of the intake valves to tell me that I was coming up on the compression stroke, and the cam sprocket marks, piston position, and valve lash to verify the position prior to adjustment.

 

I don't know what's up with my flywheel OT mark, but it's just "off" (late) by 7 to 10 degrees. Next time I tear down my engine, I'll figure it all out. Or, maybe give a demo at a TechDaze and some "vet" mechanic can observe and explain it to me.

 

Thanks again!

[notacop]

What SWB said! I just put the bike in 5th and rotate the rear wheel until I see the intakes open and the piston comes up in the chamber.

Then again it's easy once you've done it for 20 some years on a dozen bikes. Maybe that's the difference between checking and adjusting. On my Kawi I checked every 6k for 28000 miles and never did adjust what was in spec.

[DrPaul]

"But the cam sprocket arrows do not tell you which cylinder is at TDC ignition; the cam sprockets (on the 1100 bikes, at least) each have two arrows, 180 degrees apart. Once you have the arrows horizontal, you will still have to feel the rocker arms to make sure they have lash in them before you begin checking/adjusting."

 

Yes, I believe you are correct. You do need to verify that all valves are closed and both rockers are slack.

[KDeline]

 

It takes some effort to turn the rear wheel, but IMO it's easier/less tedious than pulling/reinstalling spark plugs, alt belt covers, and flywheel port plugs.

 

Great idea, but shoundn't you clean the plugs at valve ajustment time? That's why mine come out. If I can avoid that my tuneup time just got shorter.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

 

It takes some effort to turn the rear wheel, but IMO it's easier/less tedious than pulling/reinstalling spark plugs, alt belt covers, and flywheel port plugs.

 

Great idea, but shoundn't you clean the plugs at valve ajustment time? That's why mine come out. If I can avoid that my tuneup time just got shorter.

 

Actually the manual specs replacement every 12K miles, which seems like gross overkill to me (sort of like the air filter replacement interval, also 12K miles). IIRC, car service manuals indicate spark plug replacement at 50K or 100K miles. I've got somewhere over 40K on my current set of plugs, no issues so far. I'll probably replace them next spring.

 

Manual doesn't say anything at all about cleaning spark plugs. My dad used to do this back in the days of leaded gasoline; his spark plugs would get pretty crudded up, and he'd stick 'em in this little plug-blasting device, got 'em right shiny. But when I've pulled plugs from my bike, they've never been dirty/gunked up, just the standard tinge of tan/grey.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

While cleaning the plugs via sand blasting and the like was an acceptable practice back in the good ol' days, I still have my little blaster with its bag of sand, it is not a good idea with modern engines and plugs. The blasting degrades the surface of the porcelain and makes it more likely that deposits will build up. Today's much leaner burning engines and unleaded gas don't produce the deposits anyway. If you are using platinum or iridium spark plugs, you will also damage the coating on the electrodes and negate the advantages these plugs bring.

 

I don't remember the last time I changed a set of plugs short of 50K miles and had it in any way effect the running of the engine. Even my nitrous augmented drag bike, with 15:1 compression ratio only required a slight narrowing of the gap to perform flawlessly over the course of a full season of racing and this was with leaded gasolines.

 

Modern ignition systems produce a pretty powerful spark. The only reason I can think to replace a set of plugs is due to electrode erosion changing the gap or the shape of the electrode. BTW, if you are running iridium plugs, don't try to gap them. The very act will scratch the iridium coating and render the plug worthless.

[KDeline]

Thats what I have been doing for years, don't remember the last time I bought plugs or air filter, just cleaned plugs with a wire brush. I do blow the filter out at 12000 miles. At this rate maybe I can get the tune up down to 10 minutes.....

[Linz]

To come back very slightly on topic...

 

How on earth does one actually remove the Alternator Belt Cover on an R1100/R1150RT?. Unscrewing the bolts is the easy part but it doesn't slide up (it can't) and it doesn't drop down (exhaust headers). Is there some mystical Yoda inspired method that is completely obvious to everyone except me?

 

Also, if I can't work this out, does anyone believe that I should continue on to attempt adjusting my valves and then onwards to the TBS galaxy where even greater dangers lie?

 

Also, if anyone is feeling bulletproof, can anyone explain why the techniques shared for TBS, Valve adjustment, checking and adjusting the TPS are always at odds with each other on the forum?

 

Is it because there's more than one way to skin the self servicing cat or is it that half of you are wrong?

 

Please, only the people with the correct techniques reply. You guys doing it the wrong way know who you are

 

The above is Australian style humour OK?... It's just that I'm researching like a man posessed before I tackle my first at home service. I've bought Jim Von Baden's DVD, downloaded the servicing for dummies tech documents, printed them out and bound them. Watched Jim's DVD at least 4 times to catch the subtleties and am now so completely confused (due to technique differences) that I have no idea where to start.

 

I bravely attempted to remove the belt cover (to get my feet wet, to build slowly up to removing the tappet covers) and then couldn't find a way (apart from removing the header pipes) to get the bloody thing off.

 

Should I stop now and make an appointment with my expensive mechanic?

Get more advice and carry on bravely?

Ride the bike off a cliff and claim the insurance?

 

All replies, even the rude ones....appreciated.

 

Linz

[russell_bynum]

How on earth does one actually remove the Alternator Belt Cover on an R1100/R1150RT?. Unscrewing the bolts is the easy part but it doesn't slide up (it can't) and it doesn't drop down (exhaust headers). Is there some mystical Yoda inspired method that is completely obvious to everyone except me?

 

You have to remove one of the "wings". Two bolts. (I think they're 4mm, but they might be 5mm...it's been a while and I don't remember.)

 

Also, if I can't work this out, does anyone believe that I should continue on to attempt adjusting my valves and then onwards to the TBS galaxy where even greater dangers lie?

 

Sure...you're just stuck right now...no biggie.

 

Also, if anyone is feeling bulletproof, can anyone explain why the techniques shared for TBS, Valve adjustment, checking and adjusting the TPS are always at odds with each other on the forum?

 

Is it because there's more than one way to skin the self servicing cat or is it that half of you are wrong?

 

I'm not aware of any major differences. Some people favor different tools (twinmax vs. carbtune vs. mercury sticks, vs. DIY manometer), but the procedure is the same.

 

Likewise, some folks use two feeler gauges (one per valve) while others just use one.

 

What differences are you referring to?

[Bill_Walker]

You have to remove the "shark fin", the small piece of fairing that remains attached to the motor, to get the cover off. Once you've got it off, saw it in half so you'll never half to mess with the shark fin again.

[russell_bynum]

You have to remove the "shark fin", the small piece of fairing that remains attached to the motor, to get the cover off. Once you've got it off, saw it in half so you'll never half to mess with the shark fin again.

 

Just a slight hijack...

 

I'm all for taking shortcuts, but what's the advantage of cutting the cover in half? You're only talking about 2 bolts to get to get the shark fin off, so that's what...another 30 seconds of work?

 

Am I missing something?

[smiller]

You have to remove the "shark fin", the small piece of fairing that remains attached to the motor, to get the cover off. Once you've got it off, saw it in half so you'll never half to mess with the shark fin again.

Just a slight hijack...

 

I'm all for taking shortcuts, but what's the advantage of cutting the cover in half? You're only talking about 2 bolts to get to get the shark fin off, so that's what...another 30 seconds of work?

 

Am I missing something?

If so I'm missing it too. About the only time you need to remove the cover is to replace the alternator belt, so you save 30 seconds every 36k miles? (Not to mention having the shark fins in the way as you do your work.) OK...

 

The only other reason I could see to cut the cover is to have access to the crankshaft pulley bolt to allow turning over the engine easily during tune-ups, etc., but if that is your goal there's a better way... just use a hole saw to cut out the roundel (which is right over the bolt) and replace with a plug. That way you don't need to remove any bolts at all.

[Linz]

How on earth does one actually remove the Alternator Belt Cover on an R1100/R1150RT?. Unscrewing the bolts is the easy part but it doesn't slide up (it can't) and it doesn't drop down (exhaust headers). Is there some mystical Yoda inspired method that is completely obvious to everyone except me?

 

You have to remove one of the "wings". Two bolts. (I think they're 4mm, but they might be 5mm...it's been a while and I don't remember.)

 

Also, if I can't work this out, does anyone believe that I should continue on to attempt adjusting my valves and then onwards to the TBS galaxy where even greater dangers lie?

 

Sure...you're just stuck right now...no biggie.

 

Also, if anyone is feeling bulletproof, can anyone explain why the techniques shared for TBS, Valve adjustment, checking and adjusting the TPS are always at odds with each other on the forum?

 

Is it because there's more than one way to skin the self servicing cat or is it that half of you are wrong?

 

I'm not aware of any major differences. Some people favor different tools (twinmax vs. carbtune vs. mercury sticks, vs. DIY manometer), but the procedure is the same.

 

Likewise, some folks use two feeler gauges (one per valve) while others just use one.

 

What differences are you referring to?

 

Well, finding TDC for a start... Jim rotates the back wheel until the arrow is parallel with the floor and charges in like a man full of confidence.

 

Others remove Alternator belts, Timing cover plugs, peer into holes with flashlights to find OT marks and then still can't find TDC (which is what this thread was originally about...

 

There are other examples but does this give you some idea? Great resource though. I wouldn't have known about any of this stuff without this site...

 

Linz

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

...there's a better way... just use a hole saw to cut out the roundel (which is right over the bolt) and replace with a plug. That way you don't need to remove any bolts at all.

 

As has been suggested, there's more than one way to skin a self-servicing cat...but is it really that hard to turn the engine with the rear wheel?

[smiller]

but is it really that hard to turn the engine with the rear wheel?

No, but in that case you won't be mutilating the front cover at all! What fun is that?

[Bob Palin]

I'm all for taking shortcuts, but what's the advantage of cutting the cover in half? You're only talking about 2 bolts to get to get the shark fin off, so that's what...another 30 seconds of work?

I cut mine in half because, on the 1150 at least, I've been under the impression you couldn't remove the shark fin without removing the faring side panel. I just went out and looked and I'm not sure of that now...

[russell_bynum]

Well, finding TDC for a start... Jim rotates the back wheel until the arrow is parallel with the floor and charges in like a man full of confidence.

 

Others remove Alternator belts, Timing cover plugs, peer into holes with flashlights to find OT marks and then still can't find TDC (which is what this thread was originally about...

 

There are other examples but does this give you some idea? Great resource though. I wouldn't have known about any of this stuff without this site...

 

Linz

 

Oh, OK. Any of those methods will work fine...it's just up to what you prefer. None of those conflict, really...it's just different ways to arrive at the same thing.

 

You need to turn the motor...you can do that by turning the alternator belt pulley, or you can turn the rear wheel.

 

You need to get TDC...you can tell you're at TDC by putting a chopstick in the spark plug hole and turning the motor until the chopstick stops getting pushed out, you can look in the hole in the bellhousing for the TDC mark on the flywheel, or you can watch the arrows on the cam sprocket. Any of those will work and they'll all give you the same result.

[SageRider]

of course the advantage of pulling the alternator belt cover is so that the alternator belt can be examined during servicing. Just might spare an "oh sh!t" on the side of the road!

[russell_bynum]

of course the advantage of pulling the alternator belt cover is so that the alternator belt can be examined during servicing. Just might spare an "oh sh!t" on the side of the road!

 

Very true.

[SWB]

but is it really that hard to turn the engine with the rear wheel?

No, but in that case you won't be mutilating the front cover at all! What fun is that?

 

On an RT-P, there is NO WAY of removing that alternator cover without destroying it, cutting it in two, or as I did, removing half-the front end of the bike (while installing a new front strut), and pulling the cover up through where the strut normally resides. The front crash-bar subframe wraps across the front high and low. With or without shark fin, it's not coming off. Maybe, if the pipe headers are removed, but that's a bit of a process because you need to remove the CAT (pretty sure, at least).

 

Anyway, after getting that sucker off the first time around, I cut the cover in half nice and clean, and have no regrets.

[Linz]

I asked the question because I thought, as I'll be servicing my bike myself, that it would be easier to rotate the crank with a ratchet wrench while peering at arrows or TD marks than it would be from the rear wheel.

 

Linz

[Bob Palin]

I asked the question because I thought, as I'll be servicing my bike myself, that it would be easier to rotate the crank with a ratchet wrench while peering at arrows or TD marks than it would be from the rear wheel.

 

Linz

I do it by myself all the time using the wheel, put it in top gear and you can just bump the wheel a little at a time until the arrow is horizontal, easy to do even while watching the arrow.

[T__]

Turning the rear wheel to get to TDC does work as advertised.. Just beware that it very easy to knock a BMW oil head off it’s center stand when bumping or pushing the rear wheel so it is a good idea to use a ratchet strap & tie the center stand to the front wheel or front forks before heaving on the rear wheel.. You knock your bike off the center stand you won’t be a happy bee..

 

Twisty

[Bob Palin]

I do it by myself all the time using the wheel, put it in top gear and you can just bump the wheel a little at a time until the arrow is horizontal, easy to do even while watching the arrow.

One more thing - take the spark plugs out, much easier than fighting the engine compression (DAMHIK)

[GrumpyOldMan]

For those that haven't cut their front cover in half yet....... With tupperware removed and all police crash bar sub-frame members still installed, I found that by loosening all 6 exhaust header acorn nuts (till they just about fall off), then giving a good tug forward on the header pipes, I can create enough clearance for the front cover to be pulled out from below (in one piece). I don't know if that works for all R1100RT-P's.

[AndyS]

TDC is not a revolutionary concept for me, but it just doesn't seem to "work" like the manuals describe when applied to my Beemer.

Scott

 

Hi Scott, I have now got really lost in the discussion this post has generated.

Can I ask if your problem has been resolved,and if so, what have you learned?

Andy

[SWB]

TDC is not a revolutionary concept for me, but it just doesn't seem to "work" like the manuals describe when applied to my Beemer.

Scott

 

Hi Scott, I have now got really lost in the discussion this post has generated.

Can I ask if your problem has been resolved,and if so, what have you learned?

Andy

 

Learned that my flywheel for some reason doesn't accurately reflect TDC, but that using the arrow on the timing spocket and piston position is reliable enough to use instead of the "OT" mark.

 

Also discovered that some people are religious about flywheel covers.

[AndyS]

Learned that my flywheel for some reason doesn't accurately reflect TDC, but that using the arrow on the timing spocket and piston position is reliable enough to use instead of the "OT" mark.

That is good to see the end of this issue.

Cheers

Andy