SWB Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 I tuned up my bike in late May, and have since then have put about 1.4 miles on it. (Yes, that's one-point-four miles; I'm not going to get my "ironbutt" this year. I won't bore ya all with my travails, since I've told that story before. Abbreviated version: Broken tranny 11/06, rebuild, R&R lots of other stuff, test ride 5/07, a fishing trip, a *@#$%%! low flying big black Labrador retriever (not mine), a dislocated & broken ankle & leg, multiple surgeries, four months + recovery, etc.. Just the usual stuff. ). Anyhow, the valve's didn't sound "right" back in May, and now that I've got the front end of the bike together again and test road it tonight, they don't sound right now. They make a "click" or "snapping" sound at idle, a bit like the bike did before when oil got over a quart low. I think I set the valves correctly, and if I erred, I "cheated" loose. The only think I wasn't sure of at the time was the Rocker Arm adjustment (reference an ibmwr "valve adjusting" guide). The clearance was supposed to be between 0.05mm and 0.3mm, quite a large range. I couldn't get a 0.02 blade in between the rocker arm and lower rocker arm bearing carrier (LRABC), but then my feeler gauge was in poor shape and I didn't trust it in any case (i.e. bought two sets of 0.15mm & 0.30mm gauges for setting the valves). The ibmwr documentation says the looser the clearance between the rocker arm and LRABC, the noiser the valves. Obviously, if I misadjusted the valves way too loose, they could be knocking as well. However, I think the rocker arm gap is tight and the valves are just right. Mind you, I haven't really been on a BMW in a year (except for the 5 minute test ride after I go the tranny installed and before the dog-accident in May, and tonight). The bike is also still naked, so the noise could just be normal engine sounds (with a paranoid-amateur-wrenching owner). Any ideas or suggestions? My gut feeling is to just get the bike back together and ride it. I need to pull it apart after 500 miles to re-torque the the pivot bolts in the final drive (after replacing bearings with a brass bushing), to adjust the TB balance due to new throttle cables, and generally look the bike over since I've had everything except the engine and ABS system apart. But then again, after all this work, the last thing I want are fried valves. (By the way, speaking of valve noise, and as background, I also performed the left cam tensioner upgrade while I had the bike apart for the tranny R&R.) Thanks again, Scott Link to comment
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