BMW newbie-clutch question on 1100RT

[yechave]

I have just about 1k miles on this used bike with now just under 36k. The clutch has, since I have the bike, made a strange metallic crunching type sound when I first let the clutch out first use of the day, and sometimes later too.

I've never heard any noise like this on any bike I have used or owned since 1974. It is even worse starting out on a steep incline. I started using more rpm's starting out now.

 

The clutch graps with the handle about .5" away from the grip. I seem to have way too much play in the lever, and it takes too much travel to disengage, IMO. I've been too concerned with 3rd gear grinding to have asked the dealer about the clutch and other minor issues, such as the neutral light not working at times (covered on another post).

 

Does this sound normal, in need of adjustment, or something more serious? I have just over a month warranty, and would be concerned if I don't look into this now.

 

How do you know when the clutch is going? I never had a bad clutch on any bike I've owned.

 

First BMW I have used, so not much experience to compare to.

Waiting for a manual to arrive so I can do some research on my own.

 

Thanks!

[russell_bynum]

I have just about 1k miles on this used bike with now just under 36k. The clutch has, since I have the bike, made a strange metallic crunching type sound when I first let the clutch out first use of the day, and sometimes later too.

 

Sounds like you're hearing the ABS initializing...totally normal.

 

By the way, here's how to check/adjust the free play at the lever.

[yechave]

Thanks for the link! It appears my lever is at least twice that suggested distance setting. The end of the lever with the cable attached, can been seen extending at least 1/16th" beyond the housing before disengaging the clutch.

 

The cable screw adjustment seems to be about as far out as it should allow. It is due for the 36k service in 400 miles. Any theories on how long a clutch should last under normal use?

 

Really did not have too much concern about it until we got stuck in a traffic mess this afternoon, just crawling along for about 20+ mins.

 

Maybe some Boeshield T-9 lube on the clutch cable would be helpful?

 

Greatly appreciate the information!

[russell_bynum]

1. Don't lube the cable. The lube will just attract dirt.

 

2. You've got two adjustments for free play. The adjustment at the lever is for fine-tuning. You can also adjust it at the back of the transmission as well.

 

I don't have the procedure for that handy, but I recall that it isn't too complicated. Hopefully someone will post it here. It's in the Haynes and/or Clymer manuals, though...if you've got a shop manual, it'll be in there.

 

3. Clutch life...that varies widely depending on how it's been used. A BMW clutch that is well cared-for will last 100K or more. If it is abused, it can be MUCH less. I put 18,000 miles on my R1100RT not knowing that you're supposed to treat a BMW dry clutch different than the multi-plate wet clutch that I had on my previous bike. Basically, I was slipping it a bunch. Around 18K I found this place and someone told me what I was doing wrong. My clutch died at 50K. I've heard of some of the cop bikes going through a clutch in 18,000 miles or less. It's all about how you use it.

 

The bad news is that it is fairly expensive to replace a BMW clutch when it goes out. They basically have to take the back half of the bike off to get to it. At the dealership, you're looking at ~$800 or so. (Compared to the typical multi-plate wet clutch which can be replaced for $50 and a half hour of work.)

[yechave]

It took no time at the dealer's to decide the clutch was out of adjustment, we just could not agree as to how it happened in less than 500 miles or so. They did a quick adjustment down below on some bolt, and it appears good to go, vey thankfully.

 

I also found our 6 week warranty that came with the bike, apparently does not cover all that much. Never asked, as I assumed it covered anything, such as a bad clutch. Apparently not. Had the clutch been bad, they had no repair openings for at least five weeks, and would have cost many hundreds of $$. That would have been the end of our riding season, and probably would have left the bike there for consignment sale.

 

I still don't see how I could be using the clutch any differently.

 

In the process of all this, I did find out about the road side assistance insurance, which we will be buying before our trip this month.

 

Hope the repair manual gets here soon.

 

I had also asked to turn the adjustment at the clutch lever in somewhat, so there was room to make adjustments on the road, if need be. The dealer stated it was in the proper position, and left it there.. Still did not seem like the place I would have put it.

 

Then on the way back, I got caught in my second hail storm since I bought the bike ten days or so ago, both of which happened on the way home from the dealer. At least I did not have to leave the bike at the shop, or worse, sell it.

[russell_bynum]

They did a quick adjustment down below on some bolt, and it appears good to go, vey thankfully.

 

Excellent.

 

 

 

I still don't see how I could be using the clutch any differently.

 

The key is to minimize slipping. When you launch, you want to get the clutch out as quickly as possible with as low RPM's as possible. When you're in very slow traffic try letting it out, then back in, in small bursts to keep your speed going without having to constantly slip the clutch.

 

As long as you minimize clutch slipping, that's about all you can do, and your clutch is likely to last a long time.

 

 

In the process of all this, I did find out about the road side assistance insurance, which we will be buying before our trip this month.

 

Many people here (myself included) like the KOA roadside assistance plan, which is (I believe) administered by Allstate. The great thing with it, is it covers you for UNLIMITED towing to a repair shop. If you break down very far from the nearest dealership, the towing bill can get VERY expsensive in a hurry. Many roadside assistance plans only cover you for a few miles. KOA's plan will tow you as far as necessary to get you to a repair shop.

 

It will also cover you in your car/rv/trailer/etc. It's a little more expensive than using AAA or one of the others, but that expense will likely pay for itself the first time you need a tow.

 

I had also asked to turn the adjustment at the clutch lever in somewhat, so there was room to make adjustments on the road, if need be. The dealer stated it was in the proper position, and left it there.. Still did not seem like the place I would have put it.

 

According to my Clymer manual, you want 12mm of clearance between the locknut and the adjuster. How much do you have?

[EffBee]

What Russell said.

 

Practice this. Pull up to a stop sign at a low-traffic intersection that has a crosswalk. Stop on the crosswalk line. Practice getting the clutch out completely before you cross the crosswalk. That's right. In the first 6 feet of forward motion.

 

At first you may not believe it is possible, but believe me, it is. It just takes practice.

 

Unlike many multi-cylinder bikes, the RT has a substantial flywheel. I always found that if I rev the engine to about 2,000 rpm and ease off the throttle as I quickly and smoothly engage the clutch, I get the desired results.

 

Remember, the clutch should be fully out by the time the bike has achieved it's "walking speed." Walking speed is the speed achieved at idle in first gear. If you can lug a bike that low, without using the clutch, and then accelerate from that rpm, then you have proven that there is no need whatsoever to slip the clutch beyond that speed.

 

Most people slip the clutch because they are not confident in their balance, or they fear stalling the engine. Yes, you can stall an RT, but with that hefty crank and its flywheel effect, it's very forgiving. I will tell you that I've stalled my 4-cyl FJR more times in its first 5,000 miles than I did the RT in 90,000 miles. And I never needed a new clutch on the RT.

 

Practice, practice, practice. You'll be amazed at how good you get.

[RFW]

Keep in mind that clutch wear results in LESS free play, not more! In other words, as the clutch disk wears, the free play gradually DEcreases until sometimes there is none left.

[yechave]

Greatly appreciate all the tips. Will work on it. I am guessing this is a rather odd procedure compared to anything else I have used.

 

The problem seemed to have started after a five hour drive when I was stuck in snail's pace, bumper to bumper traffic for 20 mins, it had been around 90 degrees, and I was defintely fatigued.

 

I know now that I was most likely at too high an rpm trying to keep going at such slow speeds. Plus, I've had some strange noises in the engine while pulling out, so I've been pulling out at higher rpm's.

 

Never heard of this kind of clutch.

 

Again, thanks for the tips!

 

BTW, the lever adjustment was set at 12mm, just as the dealer stated it should be.

[russell_bynum]

Never heard of this kind of clutch

 

It's exactly like the clutch in manual transmission cars. Instead of being a stack of alternating friction and pressure plates in an oil bath (or not, in the case of most Ducatis), it's just one pressure plate and one friction plate.

 

BTW, the lever adjustment was set at 12mm, just as the dealer stated it should be.

 

Excellent. It sounds like they're taking care of you.