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99 RT choke question


catneck

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My new to me RT choke lever cable does not stay seated in the housing after flipping on then off-sometimes the cable will not return either. Does the cable adjuster (labeled switch-part 4 on fiche) just press in to the lever housing? Or am I missing a part.

Thanks all.

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The cable return is done by a spring in the cable junction box under the tank, under the ABS unit. So some tear down is in order. I'm not clear what you are describing by the lever not staying seated in the housing. Are you talking about the detent position to hold the fast idle (it's not actually a "choke" despite the label)?

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ShovelStrokeEd

As I recall, the adjuster actually is supposed to screw into the housing and the locknut should bear against the housing, not the adjuster like on every other cable adjuster out there.

 

Try turning it in and see if there are threads to catch. Once you get there, you might find you can't get proper adjustment out of the thing due to a stretched cable. In that case, you'll have to replace.

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catneck,

 

The fast idle (alias "choke") cable has no mechanical means of staying seated at the handlebar lever; rather it relies on a spring in the cable junction box (known as the bowden box where on '97 to whenever oilheads the twist grip and fast idle cables connect to a horizontal wheel which in turn controls the two relatively short throttle body cables) to pull fast idle lever's cable and push outer cable housing into place (back at the fast idle lever where we started).

Some assert that the fast idle cable's entrance to the bowden box becomes gritty, thus causing a hang-up noted at handle bar's lever. So, replacing (or cleaning/lubing) bowden box is the fix: alternately you can live with it until some other issue requires removal/inspection of bowden box.

 

Wooster who lives with it

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OK,

The cable itself will not always return to the housing, and the idle will not return although less often than the first problem. I see what you say Wooster about no means to stay seated in the lever housing. I have noticed the bowden box on a fiche. Now I will live with it for awhile (although the dealer let me know if the bike runs on rich for an extended time, it may overheat and catch fire!) then teardown and inspect.

Thanks all

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ShovelStrokeEd

The fast idle lever does nothing to the mixture whatever so you don't have to worry about it running rich. All it does is crack the throttles open for a little faster idle while the motor is cold.

 

It now sounds to me like you have too much play in that cable. The nipple which engages into the clutch side housing shouldn't have enough play to allow it to escape if things are adjusted normally. Perhaps you should try this, adjust the free play in the cable to give you a warm idle of 2200 RPM at the first, non spring loaded detent. Do be careful here if you don't have some big fans blowing over the exhaust headers as radiant heat from the high idle could toast your tupperware.

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Paul Mihalka

The fix is cleaning the bowden box. In the mean time when the fast idle (not really "choke") outer cable does not pop back in place, usually blipping the throttle with the throttle grip makes is reseat again.

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