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Relays


Michael_T

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Oh Gods of all Electric!

 

Is there a "holder" that can be used to "manage" all the additional relays associated with the many farkles we are prone to apply or do ya'll juz tape'em up inline?

 

Michael

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I used these (stock # 90F8247)from Newark Electronics 4082068.jpg

They are sold individually but have tongue and grooves to daisychain as many as you need. They also have a mounting tab making it easy to tie wrap the assembly to a convenient mounting location. They don't come with connectors so you'll need to order those as well (50F998, 999, or 1000; depending on the wire size)

 

Edit: Looks like that part is no longer stocked, but 17M3158 is a similar socket.

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Well personally, space on a bike to hide things usually being at a premium, I usually just put them one at a time wherever I can find spots. You can see my horn and seats one in center of this picture:

 

186835617-M.jpg

 

My ones for the aux. lights are located under fairings up front.

 

Low current switched stuff like the GPS, video camera, FRS, etc. come off a TPS-15 located under the fuse block in the picture.

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Well personally, space on a bike to hide things usually being at a premium, I usually just put them one at a time wherever I can find spots. You can see my horn and seats one in center of this picture:

 

186835617-M.jpg

 

My ones for the aux. lights are located under fairings up front.

 

Low current switched stuff like the GPS, video camera, FRS, etc. come off a TPS-15 located under the fuse block in the picture.

 

Nice wiring job. thumbsup.gif

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Nice toes!! lmao.gif

 

Pat

Hey! Don't be mocking my toes, I'm rather attached to them!

 

Actually I did think about PhotoShop-ing them out, but then I said to heck with it.

 

Had I known about your toe-fetish though Pat,,,

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That socket looks like it will hold the very common Kaehler or Bosch relay that is used for various purposes on BMW and Mercedes cars; very common for fuel pumps on older models.

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I understand the need for relays if wiring into the CANBUS. My question is if I am simply adding one piece of equipment can I hardwire it into the accessory socket wiring without the need to fuss with relays/fuses?

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I understand the need for relays if wiring into the CANBUS. My question is if I am simply adding one piece of equipment can I hardwire it into the accessory socket wiring without the need to fuss with relays/fuses?
Of course you can. I did it for my autocom (initially). The only restriction is that (especially with the ST) the total draw can't go over the amperage limit of the bike. On the ST (at least the 05's) that's 5 amps. Obviously an Autocom isn't going to do that, but lots of things might. The two things I have that will go over are my Gerbings jacket(s) and Cyclepump.

 

If you have more than one thing plugged in at a time, it's never a bad idea to have a fuse inline.

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That socket looks like it will hold the very common Kaehler or Bosch relay that is used for various purposes on BMW and Mercedes cars; very common for fuel pumps on older models.

 

Yes, it takes the standard Bosch cube relay common in many auto applications for quite a while and available at any auto parts store.

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My question is if I am simply adding one piece of equipment can I hardwire it into the accessory socket wiring without the need to fuss with relays/fuses?

 

Depends on what you are adding. A single piece of electronics such as XM, GPS, etc. there is no need for a relay. If you are adding driving lights, heated gear, etc. that have a significant current draw, you should use a relay. If you are adding multiple farkles, many find it easier to add an auxiliary fuse block switched by a relay and connect all the farkles to that fuse block.

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Thanks. That makes sense. I'll add the relay later when current draw becomes an issue. Right now, I'm just adding a simple rider to pillion intercom so I'll tap into the accessory plug.

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I understand the need for relays if wiring into the CANBUS. My question is if I am simply adding one piece of equipment can I hardwire it into the accessory socket wiring without the need to fuss with relays/fuses?

 

On pre-CANBUS, you generally do not need a relay, with the notable exception of things that carry large loads, like driving lights. On Canbus, a relay would look like any other alien electrical device, like another powerlet or Gerbrings connection, or whatever.

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On Canbus, a relay would look like any other alien electrical device, like another powerlet or Gerbrings connection, or whatever.
And your point is? If you are implying that a relay is required on a CAN-BUS designed bike when connecting a low current device to the accessory socket wire, I have to disagree. The ZFE module (that controls the accessory socket) doesn't know what is connected to it, only that something is that is drawing current.
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On Canbus, a relay would look like any other alien electrical device, like another powerlet or Gerbrings connection, or whatever.
The ZFE module (that controls the accessory socket) doesn't know what is connected to it, only that something is that is drawing current.

 

My point exactly. So I would not use a relay unless the draw was high.

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Correct me if I am wrong but I thought that, in addition to the issues raised by the Gods of all that is Electric, a relay protected you from the amps when you were using a switch as the "real" power for the farkle was running through the relay and not "cock pit" switch.

 

Michael

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ShovelStrokeEd

A relay is nothing but a switch. It's advantage is that it can control high currents using a low current draw, typically around 5-50 mA. The actual device powered by the relay and it's current draw will not be "protected" in any way, nor will the source of that current, unless you use a fuse in line with the power contacts of the relay.

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But relays do allow the use of low current switches mounted in the cockpit. Besides getting more power to the bulb, a significant advantage to adding relays for the headlight is to reduce the current going thru the switches on the handlebars.

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ShovelStrokeEd

True if the switches are not rated for the power transmitted. I have also seen quite a number of switch failures caused by too little current. Granted, this is more an industrial situation where the switch is designed with wiping contacts and in infrequent use. With modern motorcycles (no headlight switch) the only switch subject to this would be the dimmer switch. I use mine frequently and do have to say that I have never experienced a failure of the light switches on any of my bikes all of which have been stored outside for their lives. That's 50 years of riding and more miles/bikes than I care to contemplate.

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Eckhard Grohe

Shouldn't all relays we use have a spike supressing diode somewhere in their circuit. Some of mine don't and I would like to add one. Anyone one know how to do it?

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Solder a diode in series with the coil terminals.

 

How about in parallel with the coil, and with the cathode to the 12 Volt side.

 

The object is to short out the back EMF pulse that happens when the coil is de-energized. It will be of the opposite polarity to the normal applied voltage.

 

To say this differently, the diode is orientated such that it will NOT conduct when the relay is energized in the normal fashion.

 

Stan

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