casticus Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 Okay I went with Shawn's recommendation and changed out both of the cables from the box to the throttle bodies and got everything reconnected. Question is how do you make the initial tension setting on those cables when both have been replaced? How tight should I set them, the throttle cable, and the fast idle cable befoe I start synching? I am hoping the collective wisdom can help out. Thanks, Dave Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 You kinda remove the slack. No real trick to it. Link to comment
Nevets Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 You got that figured out yet?!? You ready for a TechDaze in GR so can 'splain it to us? Link to comment
justplainray Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 Dave, I'm interested in "Part 1". What was the symptoms/problem that lead to cable replacement? I am having problems keeping my throttle bodies in syn. The right one is 'lazy' & lags behind the left one. I can syn the TBs then after a few hours of riding the left one is out of syn. It seems that the right cable grows longer. Also, when this happens the left exhaust pipe glows red at an idle in half minute or so. Any thoughts. Thanks. Just-plain-ray Link to comment
flars Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 Re: running hot. If you are able to sync, but it won't stay in sync, and your pipes are glowing, the glowing side has an airleak. The leak will be between the TB and the cylinder. There are orings in that junction that can get displaced if the tubes have been messed with. They can also dry out. The tubes themselves can also dry out and crack, which will let in excess air. There have been a few discussions about this that you should be able to do a SEARCH on to find. Link to comment
casticus Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share Posted July 31, 2007 You got that figured out yet?!? You ready for a TechDaze in GR so can 'splain it to us? Only if you don't mind that that your bike idles well at 5 bars and the fast idle advances the throttle the way you want it to at 5 bars and not at zero bars. Seriously, bike is running and I synched it. But on cold start the throttle doesn't advance the way I expected it to. The first click up only holds the rpms slightly over 1k and the next one only bumps it to maybe 1500 rpms. But I can teach you how to take the damn box out from under the ABS pump....had to do it 2.5 times (the second time I forgot to put the clip on the cam and had to take it most of the way out again). Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Seriously, bike is running and I synched it. But on cold start the throttle doesn't advance the way I expected it to. The first click up only holds the rpms slightly over 1k and the next one only bumps it to maybe 1500 rpms. You have too much slack in your lower throttle cables. Take some slack out and your fast idle lever will work fine. Link to comment
jojo Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 I have a similar problem on my RT. on cold start with fast idle on, i'm getting 1700rpm but then after about 10sec it goes down to around 1k and the engine would stall if i don't keep the revs up with the throttle. if i lift the fast idle lever all the way up, i get 3500rpm. Last weekend i did a TB sync and noticed that while the oil temp is at 5 bars and the TB balanced, if i pull the fast idle to the first click, the needle on the twinmax slightly shifts from 0 to 1. Figure that one out Link to comment
steptoe Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 , 1. Figure that one out Why do you need to figure that out , you only have the fast idle on for a few seconds. Link to comment
jojo Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 you only have the fast idle on for a few seconds. Yes. but it's a PITA to have to use the throttle to keep the engine from stalling until the oil temp displays 1 bar Link to comment
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