Boffin Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 Day 8 - Into the Highlands Leaving Paul and Jackie's home near Stonehaven we head north via Rhynie, where we paused to rest and photograph this old Kirk. Ruined churches like this are common throughout Scotland, victims of the retribution of the Edinburgh government following the Jacobite uprisings of 1715 and 1745. The Scottish Episcopal church had supported Bonnie Prince Charlie (The well known short, effeminate Italian) and after the defeat of the Jacobites the church was outlawed and its followers subjected to enormous persecution until 1792, when the prohibition was lifted. The roofless churches dot the countryside in mute remembrance of that time, so recent by the standards of the UK's long history. Moving on, we head for the coast and the old fishing port of Portsoy. Portsoy was established as a burgh in a charter signed by Mary, Queen of Scots in 1550, and the first harbour was built at around the same time. In 1692, Sir Patrick Ogilvie, the 8th Laird of Boyne replaced the existing harbour with another built entirely of stone. The old harbour, like many of that date, was built with the stones set vertically rather than horizontally as it was believed this better rested being washed away by the sea. Only time will tell if that is right. In the early 19th century the Herring trade became a major money earner for Scotland and the old harbour was unable to cope with the volume of shipping required and so a new harbour was built in 1825. This was destroyed by a storm and had to be rebuilt in 1839. By the early 20th century the Silvery clouds of Herring were disappearing, fished out of existence and so the Herring fleets also disappeared, leading to a time of decline for the town. From the 1970's onward various regeneration schemes have brought the town back to life, though tourism is now its major industry. The old harbour ion the left, the new on the right. Continuing North, we stop for a walk by a burn: Feeling refreshed after the walk, we head on to Bonar Bridge, where we will turn inland, to cross to the west coast, arguably the most beautiful area in the UK. The first record of settlement here was in the 1300's when an iron foundry was set up in what was then a well-forested area, to fuel the foundry. By the 1500's the Forrest was so depleted that King James IV of Scotland, who was passing on a pilgrimage, ordered the cleared area to be re-planted with Oak, some of which remain to this day. Up until 1812 the town was just called Bonar, until the opening of Thomas Telford's bridge. Built in stone, it had one major arch and two minor arches. Replacing a ferry, it was part of a major road building scheme ordered by Parliament in 1803. The bridge was destroyed by floods in 1892 and rebuilt a year later. The bridge in my picture dates from 1973, erected to carry the heavier modern traffic. In 1980 however, a new bridge closer to the sea at Dornach Firth on the A9 cut 20 miles off of the journey from Inverness to Caithness which has left Bonar a quiet and beautiful place. The roads from Bonar to Lochinver are fantastic. Magnificent scenery, great surfaces and good sight-lines, fast sweepers, tight technical corners and some good straights - so good in fact that I did not stop for photographs - sorry. We did stop when we reached the coast - at a village called Achmelvich, near Lochinver. Isolated and beautiful, an ideal spot for a quiet holiday. The sea and the climate here is surprisingly warm, washed by the Gulf Stream, a current of warm water that has traveled across the Atlantic from the Gulf of Mexico. Some random pictures: Leaving Lochinver we ride down the coast towards Ullapool, spurning the main road we travel down the narrow and beautiful coast road. Most of it is too narrow to stop, being on average 6ft wide with passing places where parking is forbidden. The scenery defies description and would be diminished by photography. Around every bend and over every rise is a jaw-dropping vista. This is an area that should be on everybody's see-before-you-die list. I wish I had been able to stop and capture the magnificence of this lake-strewn mountain scenery but it was not to be. Day 9, Ullapool to the Isle of Skye to follow. Andy Link to comment
BereIsland Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 The weather looked good for you.Nice pictures Steve Link to comment
Boffin Posted July 29, 2007 Author Share Posted July 29, 2007 Day 9, Ullapool to the Isle of Skye. Ullapool is one of those places that seems to appear out of nowhere as you drive along. One minute nothing, next the town is in front of you. Unusually for a British town, it is laid out in a grid-pattern having been designed and built by that prolific engineer Thomas Telford in 1788, on commission from the British Fisheries Society. Ullapool lies in a sheltered sea loch, Loch Broom, and was in an ideal position to capitalize on the Herring trade. As with Portsoy, as the fish were depleted, so was the town's economy. It was to be several decades later that the long-range fishing boats came to recognize the benefits of Loch Broom's sheltered anchorage bringing wealth back to the town. The fortunes of fishing have come and gone over the years but Ullapool is still an active fishing port. It is also home to one of the ferries to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, in the Outer Hebrides. Today, tourism is a major source of income to the town, as can be seen by the large number of retail opportunities for Tartan Goods and suchlike. It is however, almost impossible to get a meal after 9pm, with only the excellent Indian restaurant serving after this hour. Loch Broom: Once again, we left the main roads to the tour coaches and headed down the coastal route towards Kyle of Lochalsh and the Isle of Skye. Another narrow road with stunning scenery. This time we did manage to stop a couple of times for photos. They do not do the scenery justice. Loch Ewe. Loch Ewe is a large, sheltered, deep-water loch with easy access to the North Atlantic, so it was here that during WWII the Atlantic convoys to Russia were formed up. The remains of war are to be seen all around here, with concrete pill-boxes and old anti-aircraft gun emplacements scattered far and wide. Much more peaceful today the loch does still have a naval presence, with a NATO naval refueling jetty at the inshore end of the loch. The refelling Jetty: We took these shots a few miles further on, whilst having a rest break: Looking back to where we had come from: Another rest-stop, this time on the Isle of Skye: More random Skye shots... We stayed the night at Kyleakin, just over the Skye bridge. At the Bed and Breakfast, the view isn't too bad.... After settling into our room we took a stroll around town looking for somewhere to eat, once again this had to be done before the magic hour of 9pm... The Skye bridge, built in 1984 to replace the ferry that used to ply between Kyle of Lochalsh and Kyleakin; now toll-free after the highland council bought it from the construction company. Before the bridge, it was not uncommon to have to queue for two or three hours for the ferry. Looking across the sea towards Kyle of Lochalsh Kyleakin harbour Day 10, Skye to Killin to follow Andy : Link to comment
Boffin Posted July 30, 2007 Author Share Posted July 30, 2007 Day 10, Skye to Killin We decided that rather than just nip over the bridge onto the mainland, we would travel across the Ilse of Skye to Armadale and catch the ferry to Mallaig. ..fly bonny boat.. The road across the island has recently been 'improved' though some parts retain the charm of the old single-track road that used to be the highway. We set off for the ferry neither knowing nor caring what time the next boat sailed. As it happened we only had a ten-minute wait and so we just bought a ticket and waited for the ferry. Bikes are loaded first, to allow the crew to secure it for sea, so we had to stay close by. I took a few pictures of the bay and then the ferry docking: The ramp stays down until the published sailing time - allowing plenty of time for stragglers. Leaving the dock: Spot the RT On the crossing I get time to play with the camera Mallaig in the distance: Sheila stands watch.. Approaching port. Mallaig is not the town that was intended to be the main port in this area, that honour was supposed to go to a place called Roshven Farm but the local land owner could not agree terms with the railway company so the line went to Mallaig instead. Mallaig grew rapidly from both Herring fishing and the road and rail links to the islands via the ferries which soon started running. What price the land now? Once again on the mainland we head inland towards the town of Killin, where we will be staying the night. We decide to go via the scenic Kinlochleven loop. This is a typical highland road - terrible isn't it? Today is a short riding day so we book into our hotel, which sounds like it belongs in a classic horror flick, it turns out to be more of a farce: Then go for a walk. First off a quick look at the Clan McNab burial ground on an island in the Dochart river, said to be the most beautiful burial ground in Scotland, though we did not get the keys from the tourist office to look round. Flowing through the town in a series of rapids known as the Dochart Falls, the river Dochart is a popular picnic place for tourists. We had to play there a while: Killin Main street: Ben Lawer The river below the rapids, where it passes our hotel: We walk back to the hotel for what was to be a frustrating example of poor service and great food. We had booked a table for 8pm and presented ourselves at five to the hour. We were given menus and shown to our table. Ten minutes later I got the attention of one of the waiters (they are called that because they make you wait and wait) and we placed our orders. At 8:45 I walked into the bar area, called for the manager and asked if we were ever going to eat. He said they were 'a bit busy' and so had got behind. I said he either had not enough staff or the wrong staff and that I was not happy. We finally got our food at 9pm. It was superb but the wait tainted the whole experience and I would council anyone to avoid that restaurant. The final kick came when the hotel manager refused to offer any compensation for the debacle. One hotel to cross off of the list. Still to come: Day 11, Back to England. Andy : Link to comment
Boffin Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 Day 11, Back to England. Today was a day of mixed feelings. We were heading back to England, just one more night of holiday before heading home. Somehow it felt like the holiday was ending there. It probably for this reason that I seem to have taken very few photographs over the last two days. We rode south from Killin to Inverary, a delightful port that was built in the Mid 1700's when the 3rd Duke of Argyle discovered the castle he had inherited was un-inhabitable. His response was to demolish both castle and village, rebuilding the village to the west of its original site to give more room for the new castle - and to move the village out of sight. In the harbour, as part of a maritime museum, is a three-masted Schooner, "The Arctic Penguin", built in Dublin in 1910. the new road built by the Duke skirts the loch: Moving onward we head to Dunoon to catch the ferry from Hunters Quay to Gourock, avoiding a long trip around the Firth of Clyde. Whilst on the ferry I spot ship with an unusual profile - looking closer I see that it is the Waverley, the last Ocean going paddle steamer in the world, taking its cargo of tourists on a stately cruise up the Clyde. The Waverley Cruise page Leaving the Clyde behind we find ourselves on the motorway network and heading for England. The M74 drops us into Carlisle and thence down one of the quieter English A-Roads into County Durham and our Bed and Breakfast. Occupying a disused station on a long-abandoned mineral line which now forms a vital link in the coast-to-coast cycle route, Townhead Station is a friendly, lively place to spend the night with superb home-cooked food - just as long as you do not plan to sleep. The bed was the most uncomfortable I have ever not-slept in. Some of the decaying mineral sheds. Day 12 - Home to our own bed. Heading south we see signs for Egglestone Abbey with the English Heritage logo. Such sites often offer a decent cup of tea or coffee in pleasant surroundings and as we are members of English Heritage we get free admission. This site alas was free to all and had no visitor facilities. We took a few pictures and headed towards Scotch Corner, where the A66 meets the A1 and is a Major truck stop. It also has toilets. Egglestone Abbey: From here we stick to main roads and a few short hours later we are home. Happy to be back, a little melancholic as our holiday is over. We have Sunday to recover from the 2000 mile ride and then to work. Scotland as ever has been magnificent, come rain or come shine. I urge all who have never experienced its glory to do so if possible, even if you cannot do it on a bike. Thanks for reading this tale which has helped me relive the highs of the holiday. Andy : Link to comment
BitScribbler Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Great story Andy. Typical Scootish summer weather, I see! Link to comment
tallman Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Andy, I've really enjoyed your tale. Thanks. It is amazing how much Nova Scotia looks like the "real" place. Link to comment
dshogman Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 I can't stand it!!!!! Every time I decide it would be too expensive to go back to Scotland (would be 6th trip), one of you guys posts all those beautiful pictures and I want to go back right away!!! Well, the planning is back on for summer '09 (I do plan ahead). BTW, the first trip to Skye was on the ferry - yeah, you had to wait but there was a great fish 'n chips place right nearby as you waited. Link to comment
Albert Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Great stuff Andy and outstanding photos. Thanks for taking the time to take us all along. Link to comment
Francois_Dumas Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Great trip and pictures Andy. I'll read it ALL as soon as we get back to a 'real' internet connection !! Link to comment
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