Emoto Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Hi guys, Just noticed that either seal # 2 and/or 3 in this diagram is weeping. It is the last seal on the transmission where the driveshaft attaches. If I ask the shop to deal with it, how much should I expect to pay? 2005 R1200GS Thanks! Link to comment
Highway41 Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Mine was fixed under warranty with a charge of 160.12 for parts and labor. Bill Link to comment
Emoto Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 Mine was fixed under warranty with a charge of 160.12 for parts and labor. Bill Thanks, Bill! That is better than I thought it would be. May I ask what part of the country that happened in? Being int he Boston area, everything tends to be expensive here. Mine is 3 months and 1700 miles out of warranty, but that is another discussion. Link to comment
Highway41 Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Was at Daytona BMW. Parts used were a shaft seal, seal ring, and gasket ring all totalling about 10 bucks. Labor was 2.3 hours at 65 per. Bill Link to comment
Emoto Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 Was at Daytona BMW. Parts used were a shaft seal, seal ring, and gasket ring all totalling about 10 bucks. Labor was 2.3 hours at 65 per. Bill Bill, thank you so much! Bob Link to comment
Emoto Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share Posted July 31, 2007 I called 2 shops for an estimate on doing the work. Still waiting for one to get back to me, but the local one did get back to me and wanted 5-6 hours of labor ("you have to take the whole back of the bike apart") plus the 20-some-odd dollars for the parts. WTF??? I told them I would have to think about it, as I figured I could probably do it myself in about 2 hours. I am hoping the other shop gives me a more realistic estimate. I may do it myself, but I really had thought that I would give the local guy some work... Link to comment
Ken H. Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 I figured I could probably do it myself in about 2 hours.Well if you can pull the final drive and swing arm, replace the seal, and have it all back together in 2 hours, you're a better mechanic than me! Here's my write up of when I did mine, in decidedly more than 2 hours! Replacing a Transmission Rear Seal, with Pictures Link to comment
Emoto Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share Posted July 31, 2007 I figured I could probably do it myself in about 2 hours.Well if you can pull the final drive and swing arm, replace the seal, and have it all back together in 2 hours, you're a better mechanic than me! Here's my write up of when I did mine, in decidedly more than 2 hours! Replacing a Transmission Rear Seal, with Pictures Thanks for the link, Ken! Well, a guy who shall remain nameless unless he chooses to post here who is the tech editor for a certain magazine advised me elsewhere that the book calls for 70 minutes of labor time for the job. Add in the experience above with Daytona charging 2.3 hours, and I start to have a fair amount of comfort in the idea that a whole lot more than 2 hours is somehow off the mark. Granted, there is a learning curve, and your excellent post that you linked to does help tremendously in that regard, but if the book says 1.1, then imagining taking 2.2 doesn't seem too wacky to me. A couple of questions... why would I want to remove the wheel and brake caliper, etc.? Why not just one end of the shock, the brake arm and the pivot bolts, then walk the whole thing back a few inches? Link to comment
Ken H. Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 why would I want to remove the wheel and brake caliper, etc.? Why not just one end of the shock, the brake arm and the pivot bolts, then walk the whole thing back a few inches? Well I suppose you could if there is enough length in the brake hose and ABS sensor wire. But the wheel, final drive and swing arm all together would be more of an awkward heavy handful then I would be able to handle. But then I'm pretty much a 135lb weakling! Link to comment
Emoto Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 why would I want to remove the wheel and brake caliper, etc.? Why not just one end of the shock, the brake arm and the pivot bolts, then walk the whole thing back a few inches? Well I suppose you could if there is enough length in the brake hose and ABS sensor wire. But the wheel, final drive and swing arm all together would be more of an awkward heavy handful then I would be able to handle. But then I'm pretty much a 135lb weakling! I'm thinking if I could get the shaft off the output splines, then I could just lower it to get it out of the way. I don't think it would have to go back very far for that to happen, would it? Link to comment
Ken H. Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I'm thinking if I could get the shaft off the output splines, then I could just lower it to get it out of the way. I don't think it would have to go back very far for that to happen, would it?Personal opinion, I think it's all going to be drive you crazy in the way. There's not a lot of room up in there to get the seal out and the new one in. Plus I can't imagine how to get the drive shaft snapped back on the transmission output shaft with it still in the swing arm housing to put it back together. But hey, give it a shot with your idea and report back. We're all just learning here! Link to comment
Emoto Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share Posted August 2, 2007 You could certainly be right, Ken. When I look at any job, I try to see the areas that might be "extra" and attempt to avoid doing them. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Link to comment
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