Lowering 1200rt

[Grassman]

I am getting a set of ohlins for my bike tomorrow. I was wondering if lowering the bike two inches is to much. It would be the best for me. Thanks for you thoughts

[motoguy128]

You probably can't lower it more than 1/2" without reducing suspension travel... possibly a little more in the rear. If you drop it 2" without reducing travel, the front fendor may hit the front fairing and the rear wheel may hit the rear fender when it bottoms out.

 

Keep in mind the front wheel only has 4.7" total travel and the rear 5.3". So removing 1" or more travel will make the bike much more harsh over bumps and limit the amount of control you have in bumpy turns.

 

I'm not a big fan of lowering because of how it can negatively affect the handling performance. I'm 5'11" and am comfortable with the standard seat in the higher position, but I usually leave it lower so my passenger can look over me a little easier.

[CraCol]

I'm running Ohlins that are 10mm shorter then stock. When fully loaded the rear drive has contacted the passenger peg mount (spring preload was too light).. A stiffer spring has cured that problem. The side stand needs to be shorteded, as the bike stand s pretty straight up so oyu need to be careful where you park.. You'll also have to put more effort into lifting the bike onto the center stand.

 

TinMan.

[motoguy128]

10mm is only 0.4". SO I guess that answers the first question... no way 2" will happen without modifying the internal stops in the shock to reduce suspension travel by the amount that you lower the bike. Reducing travel will definitely require a higher spring rate.

[Highway41]

Sat on an RT at Daytona BMW that had been lowered about two inches or so. Felt good but I was a little concerned with bottoming as well as scraping the pegs. Lowered mine by an inch with Wilburs and have been very happy.

Bill

[oandaer]

I lowered the ride height of mine by 40mm by replacing the stock shocks with Hyperpro shocks. The shocks have been incredible. I did have to shorten the side and center stands.

[Don_Eilenberger]

10mm is only 0.4". SO I guess that answers the first question... no way 2" will happen without modifying the internal stops in the shock to reduce suspension travel by the amount that you lower the bike. Reducing travel will definitely require a higher spring rate.

Actually - if the shock is 10mm shorter - you'll get a ~30mm lower bike.. look at where the shocks are mounted on the swing-arms and then think of how levers work.

 

The shock travel is roughly 1/3rd the wheel travel....

 

Small additional note - if travel worries you - a progressive spring is the way to go.. it's soft in the center of the shock travel range and becomes progressively stiffer as the shock compresses. Hyperpro's come with progressive springs (and mine should be here next week..)

[motoguy128]

I forgot about the linkage/leverarm ratio.

 

Ultimately your suspension will eventually bottom. Progressive spring (stock spring or compression dampening is already progressive) will help, but not prevent bottoming.

[Don_Eilenberger]

I forgot about the linkage/leverarm ratio.

 

Ultimately your suspension will eventually bottom. Progressive spring (stock spring or compression dampening is already progressive) will help, but not prevent bottoming.

That's one of those "it depends".. With a progressive spring - the coils "bind" as it compresses, starting with the soft coils, and working towards the stiffer coils. The progression rate is what makes it an "It depends.." if the final spring rate is high enough - it won't bottom out.

 

And all the modern shocks I've seen have a rubber bumper on the shock shaft designed as the final "compression" limiter.

 

Will the wheel contact the inside of the fender? It depends. If the shock travel is designed so it never gets shorter than the original shock is capable of - no - it's not an issue. If it isn't designed that way - then it could be an issue - but isn't necessarily an issue depending on the spring rate and the loading on the bike.

 

Very little is really simple about suspension, and very few blanket statements hold water. About the only one I know that does is - generally good suspension costs more than mediocre suspension, unless the mediocre suspension is sourced from BMW.