buckeye nuts Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Just got on the rt and found the gas gauge not working , then down the road it started coming up to 4 bars, then back to nothing. Turned around and thounght i would go get gas just in case , tried to open the gas lid and it wouldnt open , so i really pulled and it released with a vacuum hiss. Is the cap the only vent? I drove home about a mile and tried to open it again and the same result Vacuum holding the cap closed? Figured i would post this till i looked at the clymer. It is a 2000 RT Link to comment
buckeye nuts Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 Could the culprit be the cannister being plugged? Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Is the cap the only vent? The cap isn't a vent at all. The vent is inside, travels via rubber hose vack to the charcoal cannister, then through a electrically controled valve, to a splitter, and finally sucked into the bottom of the throttle bodies on each side (the hoses you disconnect to do a TB sync). Most likely cause is an clogged charcoal cannister (overfilling tank can cause this), or a pinched vent line. Stan Link to comment
Green RT Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Most likely cause is an clogged charcoal cannister (overfilling tank can cause this) So, what is the solution if that is the cause? Replace cannister? Cannisterectomy? Any other options? Link to comment
Ken H. Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Most likely cause is an clogged charcoal cannister (overfilling tank can cause this) So, what is the solution if that is the cause? Replace cannister? Cannisterectomy? Any other options? Locate the vent obstruction and correct it. Could be - pinched hose, any one of three, plugged vent path within the tank, plugged charcoal canister, failed purge valve. Or just plain a stuck closed cap having nothing to do with venting at all. The point is systematic troubleshooting are in order. Not to just start yanking parts off the bike. Link to comment
buckeye nuts Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 I am taking a trip to the shop this morning to see if the cannister is covered under emmisions warranty , if not then i will take the removal route. I just wonder what would happen if i had kept riding, i dont think it would just quit running but with this amount of vacuum in the tank i am wondering? Anyone ever buy a cannister? Or know if it is covered under emmisions warranty if there is such a thing? Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 If you keep riding it like this the fuel gage sender will likely implode and your fuel gage will not work. There are a couple of threads, at least one with photos of what happens. If you decide to remove the cannister here are the instructions: http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/cannister_horn.shtml it's a straightforward procedure. Link to comment
Mr Pou Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Last fall my '03 1150RT started making the classic signs, it would stall repeatedly right after filling the tank, erratic fuel gauge reading, and the pull and loud whoosh sound at the end of the tank. Did the canisterectomy, and all is well. Too bad I can't get that space back in the right bag, though. While doing the canisterectomy, I noted that the carbon material had started to get sucked into the line leading towards the solenoid valve and TB's. Link to comment
Green RT Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Last fall my '03 1150RT started making the classic signs, it would stall repeatedly right after filling the tank, erratic fuel gauge reading, and the pull and loud whoosh sound at the end of the tank. I have some, but not all, of the same symptoms. After refilling, the bike sometimes stalls and runs erratically. I read over the cannisterectomy instructions and also looked at the price of a new cannister. To me, it seems like spending the the $90 for a replacement cannister is not all that much money, is easier than the cannisterectomy, and better for the enviroment maybe. I'm inclined to just replace the cannister. Any problems with that solution? Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 New canister is a good idea if you want to stay green. A simple solution. For those who wish to recover a litte space, a piece of 2" PVC will fit in the clamp. A couple of caps, one screw type, a little glue and you have a handy dandy stash for things like extra tools, a tire repair kit, or whatever else suits your fancy. Link to comment
Mr Pou Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 None, I just decided to get rid of the thing. Just be sure to check the vac lines to be sure no canister innards have gotten sucked into the lines! Link to comment
buckeye nuts Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 Just called for a price , around 90.00 took off the cannister hose one at a time and found i could blow through one but not the other , both went to tank not solenoid. If this is normal i wont take off the tank to look for a crimped hose , if this is normal i will remove the cannister, it would be 10 days to get a new one Link to comment
buckeye nuts Posted July 25, 2007 Author Share Posted July 25, 2007 OK i did a little trial and for those anal guys put a few golf tees in your bag . I left the hose that i could blow through open, then i put a golf tee in the other 2, went for a 5 mile trip and no bad results other than no pressure in tank anymore and also noticed that it isnt popping through the exhaust when slowing down like it was the last few weeks. It isnt that i didnt want to do it like the process is supposed to be , its just that i am lazy and would rather ride than pull plastic , if the results are the same? Also it is bike nite tonight and you need priorities . Just dont buy BMW Tees they are on backorder Link to comment
buckeye nuts Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 Well for those who have the sucking tank problem , putting the golf tee in the outside hoses from the can and leaving the center hose open works just fine for a quick fix and after 2 days of riding it is back to normal. I may do the whole removal process this winter when i take off the plastic but for now it will stay as is. A guy told me last night that a persons tank actually did suck a dent in the one side from a clogged can, if you go to get gas and you have the symptoms of not being able to open the cap just pull off the middle hose from the cannister Link to comment
bwr Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Well for those who have the sucking tank problem , putting the golf tee in the outside hoses from the can and leaving the center hose open works just fine for a quick fix Just for clarification, are you saying that you have disconnected all three hoses from the canister, plugged the ends of the ones going to the TBs, and the hose coming from the gas tank is left unconnected to anything? This thread is very timely for me. Last weekend when it was very hot I think I overfilled the tank. For the first time suddenly my fuel gauge stayed on full all the way until empty, and there was a lot of vacuum build-up on the tank. Next tank-full, however, all was back to normal. Haven't run a third tank so don't know if this is going to be a recurring problem. Is it possible that one over-fill could temporarily block and hose or cannister, but once the gas evaporated after a day or two it remedies itself? Link to comment
RFW Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 The point is systematic troubleshooting are in order. Not to just start yanking parts off the bike. What a concept! Right on! Funny thing is why this is such a hard concept for many so-called mechanics to understand. Link to comment
buckeye nuts Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 The middle nipple in the cannister goes to the tank vent , the one on top goes to the TBs the other is a vent to the can. Yes i just plugged both the outside hoses and left the middle one open. Have about 100 miles on it since and it runs great, actuall the idle is back to normal , it was about 200 lower the last few weeks .I keep the idle at about 1100. This is the same as doing the cannister removal process without taking out all the hoses. I like this better it only takes about 5 minutes and anyone can do it Link to comment
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