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1150 Throttle Body Sync.........


Redbrick

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Done a "search" and didn't find what I'd like to have; a graphic display of throttle body adjustment on the 1150 engine.....I've got Jim Von Baden's DVD on the 1200 and an 1100 manual....Would like to know what I'm getting into on the 1150...Same as the 1100?.......Option: Buy an 1150 shop manual.....

 

Thanks.......

 

Phil.........Redbrick

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It is exactly the same as the 1100. When you get done you will say. "Wow, that was too easy.......and the dealership charges how much for this?"

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It is exactly the same as the 1100. When you get done you will say. "Wow, that was too easy.......and the dealership charges how much for this?"

 

Thanks Keith.....It just looks a little confusing to me....Kathy (and I) are teaching ourselves how to do the services.....Wish I had a big enough place for a Tech Daze....She's out warming it up now on a little ride...We'll do the fluids today (which we have done before) and the sync and valve adjustment next week....

Then my 1200RT is next.........

Phil.........Redbrick

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It was confusing to me also until I was standing there with the TwinMax and a screw driver in my hand.......then I was kinda like "Oh.....thats it?"

 

I'd offer to help, but 3k miles is a little much for an afternoon ride wink.gif

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It is exactly the same as the 1100. When you get done you will say. "Wow, that was too easy.......and the dealership charges how much for this?"

 

NO, NO, NO, AND DOUBLE NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

It's close, but I went out to do my first TB on my 1150 armed with the 1100 procedure in hand. I did it, including the 0=0, and had my RT so farged up that it wouldn't do anything. Lots of folks on this site had fun with me on that one, and the prevailing reasoning was that it was so farged up that I'd either have to pay the shop serious dinero to straighten it up, or buy a new left TB for big wampum to fix it. All I know is that it was DRT...dead, right there.

 

Fortunately for me, Ken H (tech mod, extrodinare!) got me going again, but it was a day and a half procedure and very, very tedious. Once I got it going, it ran better than it ever did. But I sure felt like a dingleberry on life's behind for awhile.

 

That being said, it is VERY similar to an 1100 synch, but PLEASE, get the right info and procedure before you start turning screws. I speak from humbling experience.

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It is exactly the same as the 1100. When you get done you will say. "Wow, that was too easy.......and the dealership charges how much for this?"

 

NO, NO, NO, AND DOUBLE NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

It's close, but I went out to do my first TB on my 1150 armed with the 1100 procedure in hand. I did it, including the 0=0, and had my RT so farged up that it wouldn't do anything. Lots of folks on this site had fun with me on that one, and the prevailing reasoning was that it was so farged up that I'd either have to pay the shop serious dinero to straighten it up, or buy a new left TB for big wampum to fix it. All I know is that it was DRT...dead, right there.

 

Fortunately for me, Ken H (tech mod, extrodinare!) got me going again, but it was a day and a half procedure and very, very tedious. Once I got it going, it ran better than it ever did. But I sure felt like a dingleberry on life's behind for awhile.

 

That being said, it is VERY similar to an 1100 synch, but PLEASE, get the right info and procedure before you start turning screws. I speak from humbling experience.

 

That is complete BS......show me the difference?

 

the 0-0 might be different (I have never done one), but the TBS is identical

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Keith -

 

I'm sure Redryder is referring to the TPS procedure, which of course is different. The TBS is the same for both engines.

 

A well-intentioned warning to the unsuspecting, and IMHO not quite worthy of the BS flag.

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Keith -

 

I'm sure Redryder is referring to the TPS procedure, which of course is different. The TBS is the same for both engines.

 

A well-intentioned warning to the unsuspecting, and IMHO not quite worthy of the BS flag.

 

IMHO, I didn't appreciate the "NO, NO, NO, AND DOUBLE NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" comment when I correctly answered a specific question about a TBS. Well intentioned would have sounded a little different to me.

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I'm lost...TPS and TBS I think i'm assuming TBS= throttle body sync? which is TPS Sorry...i'm still learning

Throttle position sensor. Th black box on your left throttle body. It can be adjusted, but it is a relaitively complicated procedure and is not done as part of normal maintenance.

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I'm lost...TPS and TBS I think i'm assuming TBS= throttle body sync? which is TPS Sorry...i'm still learning

Throttle position sensor. Th black box on your left throttle body. It can be adjusted, but it is a relaitively complicated procedure and is not done as part of normal maintenance.

 

Got it...Thanks thumbsup.gif

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I'm lost...TPS and TBS I think i'm assuming TBS= throttle body sync? which is TPS Sorry...i'm still learning

Throttle position sensor. Th black box on your left throttle body. It can be adjusted, but it is a relaitively complicated procedure and is not done as part of normal maintenance.

 

Got it...Thanks thumbsup.gif

 

 

James, not sure if you saw me do it or not when we worked on your bike, but I reset yours while we were doing the brakes. Sneaky aren't I? thumbsup.gif

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Throttle body sync. and "Zero-Zero" are two different procedures. The zero-zero procedure indeed applies only to the 1100 series, but even on them it is a tool of last resort to attempt to recover from a badly messed up throttle body set up. In particular when someone has messed with both the TPS position and the left-hand idle stop screw.

 

It is decidedly not part of a normal throttle body sync. On either series.

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It is exactly the same as the 1100. When you get done you will say. "Wow, that was too easy.......and the dealership charges how much for this?"

 

NO, NO, NO, AND DOUBLE NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

It's close, but I went out to do my first TB on my 1150 armed with the 1100 procedure in hand. I did it, including the 0=0, and had my RT so farged up that it wouldn't do anything. Lots of folks on this site had fun with me on that one, and the prevailing reasoning was that it was so farged up that I'd either have to pay the shop serious dinero to straighten it up, or buy a new left TB for big wampum to fix it. All I know is that it was DRT...dead, right there.

 

Fortunately for me, Ken H (tech mod, extrodinare!) got me going again, but it was a day and a half procedure and very, very tedious. Once I got it going, it ran better than it ever did. But I sure felt like a dingleberry on life's behind for awhile.

 

That being said, it is VERY similar to an 1100 synch, but PLEASE, get the right info and procedure before you start turning screws. I speak from humbling experience.

 

That is complete BS......show me the difference?

 

the 0-0 might be different (I have never done one), but the TBS is identical

 

What I said was said from experience. We have a new guy here with all kinds of information. Some stuff for the 1100, and some stuff for the 1200. You may not think so, but there is a difference in the 1100 and 1150. What we (you and I) don't know, is the extent of the information that our OP had. For you to tell him that it is the same, believe it or not, is not good scoop, no matter how far up the food chain you believe you are. I went to the garage, if you had bothered reading my post, with ALL the information in hand to do a complete tune up on my 1150 with 1100 documentation thinking ineptly (as you do) that all the procedures were the same for the 1100/50.

 

It is true that the actual TB synch is the same (yes, I've done both, and quite sucessfully thank you!!) however, if our OP had done a 0=0 on his 1100, he would be raising the BS flag on you.

 

What my point was, and I'm sorry I didn't write it in simpler terms for you, was that there are differences, and they can cause a great deal of wailing and gnashing of teeth. So beware, if you work on your bike, and I see no reason why anyone shouldn't, just be sure and take the CORRECT PROCEDURE to the garage with you.

 

Did you know with all certainty that our OP wasn't going to do a 0=0 when he synched his TB????????? I'd say you wouldn't. Were our OP to mistakenly do a 0=0 and farged it up beyond all recognition, were you going to personally go to the OPs place and unfarg it for him?????? Again, I doubt it.

 

I speak from experience, and it was a painful one at that. If you're going to work on an 1100, 1150, or 1200, makes no difference, just be sure you have the right (correct, proper, appropriate) maintenance procedure in hand when you get to the garage.

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I don't have a problem with the information you added. I just don't understand what your issue is with the personal attacks. I don't need simple terms....just a little common courtesy.

 

And if the guy lived within a few hundred miles, I wouldn't ride over and fix his bike if he messed it up. I would offer to ride over and walk him through the proper procedure.

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Throttle body sync. and "Zero-Zero" are two different procedures. The zero-zero procedure indeed applies only to the 1100 series, but even on them it is a tool of last resort to attempt to recover from a badly messed up throttle body set up. In particular when someone has messed with both the TPS position and the left-hand idle stop screw.

 

It is decidedly not part of a normal throttle body sync. On either series.

 

Thanks for another heads-up! How do the procedures for the 1100 vs 1150 differ in TBS (is there another good URL (besides http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/TBS4Dv1.0.pdf) for it; I was not able to find usable info on manometers using our search function on this site - makes me feel like a computer newby ... give me mechanicals any time!

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I was not able to find usable info on manometers using our search function on this site - makes me feel like a computer newby ... give me mechanicals any time!

 

I just ordered a TwinMax for like $90 and called it a day. There are guys who have made their own meters but I was feeling lazy and didn't feel like messing with it. You should be able to get one at just about any good sized dealership, or just order one from Aerostich, Bobs, Morton's.......whoever you please.

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Jim VonBaden

As Ken said, the zero zero and the TBS are two different items.

 

Keep an eye out for my R1100/1150 DVD. It covers the TB Sync for the R1100/1150 series.

 

Jim cool.gif

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daveinatlanta
I was not able to find usable info on manometers using our search function on this site -

FWIW - I recently did a TB sync with a TwinMax. However, the night before, I built a manometer similar to this http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp - for a total cost of $1.39. After I ventured to Home Depot for the 20 feet of 1/8" vinyl pipe, it took maybe 30 minutes to build it, and about an hour to let the ATF settle to the bottom.

 

The next morning, after I was satisfied with the TwinMax sync, I thought I'd try out my manometer just for comparison. I was astounded to see that it indicated I was still out of balance - at idle and at 3K RPM. So - a little more tweaking and the bike and I are happy. From now on, I'll just use the manometer. The obvious downside is that I can't easily do a road test with the manometer.

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I was not able to find usable info on manometers using our search function on this site -

FWIW - I recently did a TB sync with a TwinMax. However, the night before, I built a manometer similar to this http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp - for a total cost of $1.39. After I ventured to Home Depot for the 20 feet of 1/8" vinyl pipe, it took maybe 30 minutes to build it, and about an hour to let the ATF settle to the bottom.

 

The next morning, after I was satisfied with the TwinMax sync, I thought I'd try out my manometer just for comparison. I was astounded to see that it indicated I was still out of balance - at idle and at 3K RPM. So - a little more tweaking and the bike and I are happy. From now on, I'll just use the manometer. The obvious downside is that I can't easily do a road test with the manometer.

 

Sounds interesting Dave........How about a picture of yours?

thumbsup.gif

Phil.........Redbrick

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daveinatlanta

Sounds interesting Dave........How about a picture of yours?

thumbsup.gif

Phil.........Redbrick

See the attachment. This is how it is stored - tubes just wound around the 'yardstick' - which is actually 4' long. It is what I happened to have. The tubing is taped to the yardstick with simple packing tape. I put a piece of black tape horizontally to give some reference of the balance point where the ATF was even. You'll also notice another pc of black tape on the left side of the pix -- and a corresponding pc of black tape around the left tube. I hook the tube w/ the black tape to the left TB then I can tell which side is has the higher vacuum without tracing out tubes. At the top of the yardstick there are two white zip ties to better secure the tubes to the yardstick - although the clear packing tape would have worked just as well. The top also has a black zip tie to hang the thing from a wall, garage ceiling, etc. BTW - I probably have twice as much ATF in the tube as I really need. Be SURE to hook this thing to BOTH sides before starting the engine. Otherwise it would simply suck the ATF into a TB!

894933-100_0537(Large).thumb.JPG.89d7c44d60d2ab4a79685b584edd68e0.JPG

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Thanks Dave........On my way for the big purchases at the local ACE Hardware......I'll find some 2 stroke oil somewhere......

 

Phil........Redbrick

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Dave......Manometer completed and has 2 stroke oil in it which is black and easy to see.....One question....I filled the tube to about 1/2 of the yardstick (about 17 inches) the recommendation was to the 26 or 27 inch mark from the bottom with the "36" at the bottom of course....Any problem having it 1/2 full....How much does that fluid move in the tube particularly at starting when it is pulsing???? Am I too full?....In danger of ingesting some 2 stroker stuff?....

We're trying it first on Kathy's 1150 and I don't want to screw up..... dopeslap.gif

 

 

Phil.......Redbrick

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I recently had Bigtwin BMW of Boise ID do a throttle body sync and valve adjustment on my 2002 RT. I had done the valves before, but was not absolutely certain that I had them right on. As for the TBS, my bike was running fine, but I keep reading post after post about the absolute necessity for a good TBS and that life is some how lacking if one does not have or do TBS. I have read several posts in which people have farged up thier bike trying to accomplish said TBS, so I thought I would let the pros do mine. Both the valve adjustment, TBS and a nifty BMW T-shirt cost me $170.00, which I didn't feel was to bad. When all was said and done, I felt better, and the bike ran fine, just like it did before I spent $170.00. <<<<Softtail>>>>>> dopeslap.gif

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Dave......Manometer completed and has 2 stroke oil in it which is black and easy to see.....One question....I filled the tube to about 1/2 of the yardstick (about 17 inches) the recommendation was to the 26 or 27 inch mark from the bottom with the "36" at the bottom of course....Any problem having it 1/2 full....How much does that fluid move in the tube particularly at starting when it is pulsing???? Am I too full?....In danger of ingesting some 2 stroker stuff?....

We're trying it first on Kathy's 1150 and I don't want to screw up..... dopeslap.gif

 

Quote:

 

 

Dave.......Took out oil to recommended level in the manometer, hooked it up to Kathy's bike and ran it....They are out of balance at idle and at about 3,000 too but will wait until Don (mrduck) comes over in the morning from Lancaster with his Twinmax (and experience) to do any adjusting....

A little Tech Daze here and interesting....

 

Phil........Redbrick

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Throttle body sync done today on Kathy's 1150 under the guidance of Don Jamison (mrduck)...

Had our own Tech Daze here and Motogeezer joined in too....Don was nice enough to ride 75 miles from Lancaster with his TwinMax and knowledge to show us how to this first time....'course, it's a little cooler here in Ventura County than Lancaster and he did ride west when he left (towards the beach)......

A good learning experience for all of us as we synced the idle and at 3,000 with the TwinMax and got it very close...Then put on my new home-made manometer with 2 stroke oil in it and we were all surprised when it registered that we were still about 4" worth of 2 stroker apart on the yard stick from balanced !!...A little tweek on one of the BBAS's and viola !!....Dead on...

Pretty neat....

Service (30,000 mile) done on the 1150 with Kathy doing most of the work..Oil, filter, final drive change, valve adjustment and throttle sync....

A special thanks to Don. thumbsup.gif.....Hope he got a good ride in after he left...He's going to make one of these fancy $8 manometers grin.gif.........

 

Phil.........Redbrick

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Hey that "redneck manometer" thing worked great! Redbrick, Motogeezer and myself all decided to experiment on Kathys RT-thanks Kathy-glad it went well!

That was a good excuse to get outta this desert for the day and the ride home took me around the long way via the beach.Well nobody told me it gets cold on the way there-I've been in this desert too long-but sure did enjoy the day!

Lemme know when ya talk yourself into a brake flush!

 

 

 

wave.gif

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thought I'd add my pic of the manometer I made today, based mostly on the links and pics provided by this highly useful thread. my thanks to all who contributed.

 

I'm now ready for my next tbs....my first one was yesterday, borrowing a friend's manometer.

 

872552133_512823e2c2.jpg

 

big version here

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