Oil change - hot vs. cold

[Lawman]

I've never warmed my engine before changing the oil..Most say the oil should be warm when drained. Some speak of a thermostat in the oil cooler. I'd like to know if there is a thermostat in my oil cooler (R1200RT) and if not why is it important to warm the oil before changing it. I know warm oil is thinner but it also has not had all night to drain down like my cold oil has..If the only reason to warm the oil is to thin it I'll continue to change it cold. If I have a thermstat that may be holding some cold oil back then I'll warm it before changing it..Thanks.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Billy,

If you rode the bike into the garage and parked it overnight on the side stand, you have no worries about draining the oil. Even if you parked it on the center stand, it is no big deal. It will take a bit longer to drain the cold oil out of there but so what? You are home, go back inside and have a cup of coffee or something, maybe take care of a short honeydo. Back to the garage, put the drain plug back in, pre-fill your filter, add the remainder of 4 quarts of oil and go riding.

 

A couple of ounces of residual oil is always gonna be in the engine anyway, you can't get it all out. So long as you are changing at reasonable intervals, the bike just won't care.

[Lawman]

Thanks Ed..That's exactly what I do..

[smiller]

From what I read the advice is based on the belief that warm oil in a recently run engine will have the physical contaminates suspended in the oil where they can be more easily drained. Personally I kind of doubt this since these days any physical contaminates that exist will be so small that it would take them a lot longer than overnight to fall out of suspension, if they ever do. Other than having to wait a little longer to let all it drain I don't believe that there would be any real difference in oil change efficiency hot or cold... probably belongs in the advice book along with 'always change your oil every 3000 miles.'

[Stan Walker]

I always change my oil as part of a 6000 or 12000 mile service. Since both of those also call for a TB sync (only done hot) I always have a hot engine when draining the oil.

 

1) put bike on lift

2) adj valves on cold engine

3) warm up engine (floor fan used)

4) do TB sync

5) change engine oil

6) change tranny and final drive oils (if needed)

7) take bike off lift

 

Note that the tranny and final drive oils are drained while cold, it just takes longer.

 

Stan

[Roger_R]

Back in the old days, before there were a lot of additives.

You always warmed up the oil before changing. One of the terms I never see used is "mineral spirit oil" that's a fancy term for dino oil we in the aircraft industry use.

With the additives, it's not really necessary, however, I usually pop the plug when I get home from work. I have the pan and wrench ready, and a thick pair of rubber gloves.

Go in get a beer, eat dinner, come back, change the filter, replace the oil. That's just the way I do it.

 

As far as a thermostat in the Hexhead, yes there is. About half a quart is trapped in the cooler, if you change the oil at operating temp, you know it will be open.

I know of at least 1 case where a tech overfilled a hexhead, and blew the seal and fouled the clutch.

[Couchrocket]

All you guys are living in an "either / or" world.

 

Now if you were Fully Enlightened, you would know that the true Spirit of Oil Change can only be achieved through Patience and Synergy.

 

The bike really warm, get. Center stand, put it on. Drain plug, remove. Likewise, the filter. Let it drain for 1 hour. Now tippeth the bike fore and aft on its center stand. More drips you see.

 

Now comes the Patience. Leave it over night.

 

In the morning, tip the the bike fore and aft on the center stand again. Get that last couple of cold drips into the pan. Feel the Spirit of the oil yield its final claim to the bike.

 

Only in this way have you created the synergistic fusion of the Hot and Cold, the Yin and Yang, of True Oil Change.

[Bob Palin]

The bike really warm, get. Center stand, put it on. Drain plug, remove. Likewise, the filter. Let it drain for 1 hour.

Won't work, if the oil doesn't drain from the cooler before the valve closes it's stuck there, need to: side stand, put on, for 10 minutes while hot.

[Couchrocket]

Right, of course you are. Assumed that as pre-requisite, I did. Clear about that, I was not. Tongue in cheek, I had.

[Bob Palin]

Classes, remedial enlightenment, for report.

[tallman]

You're supposed to change the oil?

[smiller]

You're supposed to change the oil?

Only until the 2008 model year, when BMW will be announcing that the engine oil is now a 'lifetime fill'.

[TowJam]

Only until the 2008 model year, when BMW will be announcing that the engine oil is now a 'lifetime fill'.

Then in 2009, BMW will come back and say, "Oops. We meant you should change it at the 600 mile service. Then it's lifetime oil." But then, you'll find out that they've already done away with the drain plug and you'll need to hold the bike upside down to drain the oil from the filler hole - raising the labor cost of an oil change to approximately $125.

[Tasker]

Only until the 2008 model year, when BMW will be announcing that the engine oil is now a 'lifetime fill'.

Then in 2009, BMW will come back and say, "Oops. We meant you should change it at the 600 mile service. Then it's lifetime oil." But then, you'll find out that they've already done away with the drain plug and you'll need to hold the bike upside down to drain the oil from the filler hole - raising the labor cost of an oil change to approximately $125.

 

You guys are a bit optimistic.

 

I heard that the oil was going the way of the BMW took kit and the spare key in 2008.

[KMG_365]

Okay, you guys . . . officially killing me are!!!!!

 

 

 

Edit: In my previous post I meant to clarify that it is worse to start up a cold bike for just a few minutes on the center stand to try to "warm the oil up" but shut it off without thoroughly warming it enough to open the thermostat. All that does is fill the oil cooling circuit with cold oil that can't drain back into the sump past a closed thermostat and leaves around 10-15% of the old oil in the motor and makes it easier to over fill it--especially if you're throwing the entire four quarts in with the change, Ed!

 

[Bud]

I see that the posters above were silent about warming up the new oil and filter to insure the exact amount of oil to add.