Red Light GO AWAY Alternator worked just yesterday

[rngrmyk]

I did my due dilligence and checked previous posts but was unable to find a current thread...

 

I have a 2004 R 1150RTp ex-CHP bike I've been using for Funeral Escorts. It's been running FINE for over a month. Last Friday, as I am getting ready to do a ride, I see the red idiot light for the battery glowing. When I got to the church the bike stalled and there is not enough battery power to crank the motor. I did the usual VOLTMETER tests and it reads low 11s on AND off. Jump starts OK but will not charge battery. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

[Ken H.]

11 V is too low.

 

Check the easy stuff first - Broken alternator belt?

[wolcott]

Probably could use an alt. belt, even if the one's that on there is not broken; could be slipping, glazed, cracked ribs, etc. How old is the battery? A bmw gel battery?

1)replace the battery with an odyssey AGM or Panasonic AGM battery (if needed).

2)Clean all battery connections, grounds, etc.

3)have you done the starter overhaul yet?

I would strip the left hand tupperware off, and start off with the battery. Charge it up, bring it to the local parts or bike dealer and have him put a load test on it. This will lead you in the right direction.

[Paul Mihalka]

The red warning light is not a "battery light" but a "charging system light". If it is on, the system is not charging. Doesn't matter if the battery is brand new or almost dead.

[Jim Moore]

Every time I have heard of that light coming on, it was the alternator belt. I'd check there first.

[Tominator]

Or the voltage Regulator is Kaput....(Inside the alternator)

[wolcott]

The red warning light is not a "battery light" but a "charging system light". If it is on, the system is not charging. Doesn't matter if the battery is brand new or almost dead.

 

My mistake. I thought that the red warning light was a "battery light" too. It should remind me of the cooperative trio that exist between the battery (which likes to leave you stranded, along with the alt. belt); the alternator/regulator; and the starter. Of course, we could always include the wiring that connect these components together.

[rngrmyk]

Y'ALL are lifesavers. I'm used to my rice rocket.

 

Alternator belt, go figure. Anyways, THANKS for the tip: as soon as the tupperware and tank were out of the way and I started loosening the bolts on the cover the belt started falling out in little pieces. So I have remmnants of the belt.

 

NOW: Does anyone have a trick for getting the cover OUT of the hole between the frame and the alternator, short of a couple of sticks of dynamite and does anyone have a source for the belt, parts house-wise?

 

GREAT BOARD and thanks for the assist

[Ken H.]

Cover is easiest removed by removing one of the lower "shark fin" shaped faring pieces first. Then it will just slip by the exhaust pipes.

 

There are a number of on-line parts places, Chicago BMW and Hammerslay BMW to name but two. But for a belt the shipping cost will pretty much eat up any savings. Visit your local friendly BMW dealer, they will certainly have it in stock.

[flars]

Up in the first post under 'renching is a parts x-ref:

Alternator belt

4K611 (4 v’s of PK profile, total length 611 mm)

Continental 12.31-1341779

Dayco, 12.31-1342059

Other brand 12.31-1342087.

Almost any auto parts place has what you need- I got mine at NAPA. BTW: I have a note on the parts xref card I carry with me that the belt is 620 mm, but it looks like the 611 mm is correct based on the 4K611 nomenclature.