93k75s Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 Hi, Im new to this board, just picked up a 93 K75S that has been sitting for two years. It will crank over but will not start. Need some advice on where to begin. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Link to comment
tallman Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 Nice bike. Check battery output. Clean gas. Check plugs/replace. Good luck. Link to comment
elwoodpone Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 Make sure connector to main computer (under seat under tray) is securely connected. & what he said too. Link to comment
Eschelon1 Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 If the fuel is gunked up you probly have to replace the fuel filter (Inside the tank). With ignition on and the engine cranking you should hear the fuel pump running (Also in the fuel tank). Make sure the kill switch is in the "Run" position. Becarefull not to run the battery down too far if you have ABS. A low voltage spike will kill the ABS Brain ($1000 part) and cause the starter relay to overheat and fuse together ($30 part). If that happens, the starter will stay engaged untill it kills the battery or until you disconnect it (Priceless). Just curious though, how many miles? Link to comment
mikefigielski Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 All good suggestions. New battery, clean out tank, fresh gas, new fuel filter, new plugs, check that you can hear the fuel pump running, check injectors are spraying. By the way the ABS brain is more like $1700 and the starter relay is closer to $75 these days so be carefull! Mike Link to comment
93k75s Posted June 17, 2007 Author Share Posted June 17, 2007 Thanks for the responses, the battery is stone dead. How do I get the seat off and the tank to drain and change the filter? Also how would I check the injectors? just pull them out? its got 15k miles on it.. Link to comment
breyfogle Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 one more thing to remember when getting an old Kbike to start is that they are prone to fouling plugs if the bike doesn't start quickly. Any significant amount of engine cranking that doesn't actually start the bike is likely to foul the plugs. It helps to have a spare set of plugs ready (they don't need to be new, just clean and dry). Link to comment
tallman Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 Ok, stop, take a deep breath. This is your first experience taking off the seat? Perhaps it would be best if you obtained a manual to get an overview of parts, locations, procedures, before jumping in. You can get a service manual there overnight if need be. If the battery won't hold a charge you can recharge it, but if it's old, you'll need to replace it anyway, so slow it down, the bike isn't going anywhere. Get the battery issue resolved. Drain gas and inspect tank. If it's gunky, stop, find someone who knows how to deal with that issue. When tank is ready, you've cleaned fuel system per manual, right?, replace gas. You've replaced plugs, just becasue. Unless there is an issue with plug wires, coils, or connections, the bike will fire up and run. If not, determine that spark/fuel/air is happy per manual. You'll sort it out, but do it right the first time. Make sure the gas tank isn't going to create more problems. Make sure the battery is sound. Make sure you have spark and plugs/cables/connections are sound. That may be all she needs. Good luck. Link to comment
Paul Mihalka Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 One more thing: If the fuel pump was sitting in old gas, the rubber mounting sleeve of the pump turns to gooy molasses, and the pump sucks it in ruining the pump. Link to comment
sfkbike Posted June 19, 2007 Share Posted June 19, 2007 I have tried to get in touch with Bruno in Canada. He doesn't answer his phone. Is he still around? James Thanks Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 One more thing: If the fuel pump was sitting in old gas, the rubber mounting sleeve of the pump turns to gooy molasses, and the pump sucks it in ruining the pump. Good advice from Paul.. and to continue it a bit. IF the bike was left with gasoline sitting in it - before you even try starting it (we may be too late here..) you should drain the tank, remove the fuel pump and clean any gunk out. If the rubber mount has dissolved - replace it BEFORE trying to start the bike. Trying to start it with the mushy rubber will ruin the pump. Check that the fuel pump runs before putting it back in the tank. Then remove the fuel rail and injectors and drain it.. look for any signs of rust in it. If there was water in the fuel - it will end up sitting in the fuel rail and rust up the inside, which will then plug up the intake screens on the injectors. The usual drill for getting a K bike started that was left with fuel in it is: Replace - fuel pump, fuel pump mount, fuel filter, injectors. Sometimes you're lucky and not all of these parts are needed - but most often - they all are. K bikes are meant to run - not to sit with fuel in them (true of any bike - but in particular the K's..) Link to comment
93k75s Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 Whats the trick to getting the seat off? I dont want to break anything and as you can tell I have not even more than really looked at the bike so far, have not had time to really play with it.. I would like to get the seat and tank off to drain the tank Link to comment
Don_Eilenberger Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Depends on the seat.. If it's a "low" seat (has a rubber surround at the front that goes around the back of the tank and clips on the frame tubes) - the seat lifts off after you unlock it. If it's the regular seat - look for a push-button on the left side about 10" back from the front of the seat (right where the rear frame tube comes up to the horizontal frame member) - push it in, the seat flips open. Link to comment
breyfogle Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Depends on the seat.. seat flips open. If you want the seat OFF, there are three clip washers that have to be removed. One is obvious, to separate the linkage that holds the seat open. Remove the clip at either end (doesn't matter which). The seat actually pivots on two pins. One is under the RHS sidepanel. The other pin is at the right rear corner of the underseat tail piece. Link to comment
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