Replacing worn brake pads- 96 RT

[DieselDave]

With the help of my trusty repair manual and your kind support, I took the wheels off to save some $$$ with the latest tire change. I'm looking to build on that success by replacing my front and rear brake pads.

 

The repair manual gives directions for dismantling and assembling the front and rear calipers but I don't see any specific directions for brake pad replacement.

 

It couldn't be as easy as removing the retaining pin, swapping out the brake pads, inserting the pin and attaching the calipers, could it? Any help or guidance is greatly appreciated.

 

For what it's worth, I'm moderately handy with tools but have no real experience with bike repair. If the consenus is that this is a job for pros, don't try to protect my feelings. I'd rather be humble and safe!

[smiller]

It couldn't be as easy as removing the retaining pin, swapping out the brake pads, inserting the pin and attaching the calipers, could it?

Yes, it could...

 

You will also have to push the pistons back into the calipers a bit to make room for the new (thicker) pads.

[randy]

almost that easy

 

couple of itmes to remember

 

One side of the bads actually sit on a ledge (my best description) when you put the pads in you have to tilt the pads and put the non pin side in first, sort of lock it onto this ledge. Then push the pin side of the pad up and install the pin.

 

when you take the pin out, clean it very well. then grease it slightly upon installation. I use a very heavy water type grease. I got it at a marine store for bearings.

 

Use this time to clean the piston surface. and just a little WD-40 on the rubber gasket is a good touch. If you have any doubt about the piston's movement the rebuild kit is cheap and they are easy to rebuild, re-build them.

 

After the first time, 15 minutes per caliper is about the norm.

[OoPEZoO]

Yup.....its just the pins. Slide something (I tend to us a large flathead screwdriver) between the old pads while they are still in the calipers and force the pistons back into the calipers. Then remove the pin, drop the old pads out, stick the new pads in, put the pin back in place, and remount them on the bike.

 

When working on the front, make sure that the caliper that you are not working on has something between the pads.......like the brake rotor, or a small wooden shim. Otherwise, when you press the pistons back into the calipers on side A, Side B's pistons will push out of the caliper.

[WaywardSon]

Go for it. I had never done this on any vehicle until about a month ago...had to replace them on my '96 R1100 RT. Went to a friends who has a lift and some experience & could not believe how easy it was...10-15 min. per caliper easy. Unless of course you allow one of the pistons to fall out...takes a little longer then

[wolcott]

It would help to have your trusty fluro worklight illuminating the area. Run a couple of strips of duct tape directly behind where the calipers mount- this will keep your nice wheel from getting all scratched up. Have some mechanic's wire handy and your tools. As you take off the 2 metric allen bolts that hold on each caliper, twist the caliper from side-to-side; this will push the pistons back somewhat. Then, you can take out the pads, (carefully noting how they go into the caliper), after you finish pulling the calipers to the rear. You may then hang the calipers temporarily with a coat hanger or mechanic's wire so you don't put any stress on the caliper hose. I used the old front pad on top of the pistons, and had a piece of tubing on the bleeder going into a bottle. I then compressed the old brake pad (pushing the caliper piston back), after cracking the bleeder nipple. 1)Have you purchased a couple of different torque wrenches yet? Important to torque the front calipers to the proper torque. 2)If the front brakes have not been bled in a year, you may want to do that now- put towels on your gas tank & front fender. Can tie steering straight ahead too- so you don't nudge the bars and have Dot 4 spilling all over your tank. Door shims wedged between the caliper pistons.