R-1100R final drive bearing & pivot bearing questions

[twins4life]

I'm new here and would appreciate some advice from others who know more than me.

 

Sit Rep:

Play in the 1997 R-1100R rear wheel, 3-9 & 12-6. Remove final drive bearing. Rough and loose. Still have 3-9 play. Check pivot bearings and find jam nut loose (!).

I plan to visit the industrial bearing supplier and see if they have an off the shelf bearing instead of the $160 BMW one. I plan to take a mic to the old and new bearing and if they are with in .0005" just reuse the old shim. Thoughts?

 

Pivot bearings: I tightened the inboard adjuster and secured the jam nut. It seems from the pics that these pivot bearings are tapered roller. So what I did should fix the 3-9 play. Thoughts?

 

Any and all advice appreicated.

[KMG_365]

Try this thread, and also this link.

[twins4life]

Thanks for the links!

Update:

Final drive bearing is rough. Found them at an industrial bearing supplier though. They have a NSK 61917.C1 for $200 and a KYK 31917.C3 for $39. The .C1 is a tighter tolerance bearing then the .C3 I went with the $39 one and will check it frequently and see how it holds up.

 

The pivot bearings were notchy too so the JL (?) bushings are on order now

 

I called an engineer friend that works for a synthetic oil manufacturer and discussed the bearings with him. He sternly advised AGAINST adding Moly and he wants me to send the failed bearing to him for failure analysis. He is curious as to the mode of failure.

 

If anyone is interested I can post updates to this here.

 

I plan to mic the old bearing and the new one and +/- the difference from the shim (if necessary)

 

Thanks again!

[smiller]

I called an engineer friend that works for a synthetic oil manufacturer and discussed the bearings with him. He sternly advised AGAINST adding Moly and he wants me to send the failed bearing to him for failure analysis. He is curious as to the mode of failure.

 

If anyone is interested I can post updates to this here.

Absolutely, please do.

[T__]

Thanks for the links!

Update:

Final drive bearing is rough. Found them at an industrial bearing supplier though. They have a NSK 61917.C1 for $200 and a KYK 31917.C3 for $39. The .C1 is a tighter tolerance bearing then the .C3 I went with the $39 one and will check it frequently and see how it holds up.

 

The pivot bearings were notchy too so the JL (?) bushings are on order now

 

I called an engineer friend that works for a synthetic oil manufacturer and discussed the bearings with him. He sternly advised AGAINST adding Moly and he wants me to send the failed bearing to him for failure analysis. He is curious as to the mode of failure.

 

If anyone is interested I can post updates to this here.

 

I plan to mic the old bearing and the new one and +/- the difference from the shim (if necessary)

 

Thanks again!

 

George, I agree with your engineer friend on NOT adding any Moly or Molybdenum additives.. Moly is basically for gear tooth protection under load (never heard of a BMW failing the ring/pinion gear set).. Not being a true Hypoid gear set the scrubbing loads are lower than a true offset Hypoid setup.. On the other hand I have seen some ball bearing problems due to moly buildup on the balls & inner races.. If the moly builds up on the balls or races it decreases the clearance enough to bind the balls.. Doesn’t happen in all cases but enough to raise a concern..

 

Twisty