Weekend installs... Ohlins, in-dash thermometer, Centech fuse block

[swilson]

I've been saving up projects so I could accomplish as much as possible while only having to remove the faring once. Ordered the Ohlins through Kyle Racing. They didn't have them in stock, but had them drop shipped from Ohlins USA... they arrived just over a week after I placed the order.

 

Install was a breeze. Didn't have a helper available, so I still haven't made sure my ride height is within specs. I did take it for a very mild ride around the block once I finished (I live in the hills, so it included a few twisties). Even though I wasn't pushing the bike, the ride was noticably better... I can't wait to really get a chance to test it out!

 

[swilson]

[swilson]

The new shocks are beefy compared to stock!

 

[swilson]

I found this thermometer at AeroStitch for $17. Its designed to be panel mounted. I took the dash a part to find the right spot... a place where it wouldn't hit anything behind the dash. This spot seemed to be the best choice. I used a disc on my Dremmel to cut out the hole... had to cut a bit of the speaker grill off as well.

 

I ran the sensor down where I thought it would get fresh air and not air warmed by the oil cooler. Its only going to be acurate while riding... at a stop it'll efected by rising heat from the motor.

 

[swilson]

There is about 1/8" clearance between the rider info display and the thermometer. I you go to do this install, just make sure you don't cut the RID.

 

[swilson]

I cleaned up my wiring with the addition of a fuse block. I'm really happy with the quality of the Centech fuse block... its top notch. I didn't even realize when I ordered it that had a built in ground block as well. Very nice.

 

Just mounted to the top of the air box. Good spot since its so close to the battery. In the future installing a Centech fuse block will be the first modification when I buy a bike. Makes adding any new toys that require 12V a piece of cake to install. Up till now I've been running a fused line to the battery for each accessory. That meant removing the fairing and gas tank to get at the battery terminals. Now with the fuse block under the seat, I'll only have to pull the seat to make any wiring changes. For now it's powering the BMW secondary LED brake light, heated Corbin seats, 12V outlet for the GPS, and a Gerbings connector.

 

I planned to power the fuse block through a relay, so I could wire the fuse block to only have power when the ignition is on... but I forgot to buy the relay. So for now the fuse block is always on. Eventually I'll rewire it so I don't end up with a dead battery should I forget to switch a seat heater off or something.

 

[swilson]

[kcscout]

Nicely done ... on all three counts. Given some of the wires I've got stretched across my bike, I should probable be thinking about the Centech, too.

[Redbrick]

Looks great and thanks for the pics....But, why is every part of that bike so clean? Would it have been that tidy if you weren't going to post pics???

 

I have an Aerostitch temp guage in the same spot on my RT...Tested it in ice water before installation and it read 31.9....Far as I can tell, with the sensor mounted up under the front fairing, it is very accurate when moving...Changes a little when stopped with engine heat....BMW should have saved cost and not put in their temp guage (1200).....Rarely do the two read the same.....

 

Phil........Redbrick

[swilson]

Looks great and thanks for the pics....But, why is every part of that bike so clean? Would it have been that tidy if you weren't going to post pics???

 

Yah, I'm busted. I hadn't done a thorough cleaning since I've owned it (bought it used 3 months ago), so I went to town with the pressure washer before installing the new stuff.

 

Just finished getting ride height within spec. Ohlins nailed it with the rear shock... zero clicks on the hydraulic adjuster with only my own weight on the bike was right within spec. Perfect.

 

The front was extremely close... just needed a minor adjustment to get it within spec.

 

Now I get to see how it rides! See ya.

[swilson]

Well... overall the test ride was crappy, but that has nothing to do with how the bike was performing (see Ride Tales forum).

 

Regardless, the bike handled like a dream. As I got closer to home and back on roads I was more familiar with and roads I typically always take at about about the same speed, I found myself going as much as 15 mph faster in through turns w/o feeling like I was trying to ride fast. It felt so planted in the turns the bike was BEGGING for more throttle.

 

I'm VERY happy with this purchase.

[Fugu]

A few well intentioned comments:

 

1) Those wires going to be OK on top of the seat bracket?

 

2) I wouldn't (and didn't on my bike) supply switched power to the entire panel with a relay. The panel is rated at 60A, a relay 20-30. If you ran a pair of lights and a heated seat off the panel, you'd be overloading the relay already.

 

I think it's better to power the panel with a 10ga wire and 60A inline fuse, then use relays for any circuits that have to be ignition switched with the Centech +12VDC tap supplying fused battery power.

 

Lights should be controlled by relays that are only energized when the ignition is on and you flip the switch anyhow, so you can't leave them on.

[swilson]

 

1) Yeah, the wires are OK... not sure what the stock seat pan is shaped like, but the Corbin pan has a slight curve right there, so plenty of room for the wires.

 

2) I didn't think about the relay rating, good point.

[Fugu]

Hey Swilson-

 

Looks like you're in luck! Look what I stumbled across:

 

http://www.cyclenutz.com/products/electrical_accessories/centech_70a_power_relay_circuit.html

 

 

The relay looks like a regular relay to me, but must be a beefy one rated at 70A.

[swilson]

 

Nice... I'll be buying that. Thanks.