Autocom Install - Switched Power Source (how to connect to)

[casticus]

Ok I am not the brightest guy when it comes to electrics...Autcom website says to connect to essentially the brake fuse in the fuse box....How? Do they really mean to just shove the wire in the slot for the fuse and then shove the fuse in?

 

The dealer installed this unit in an F650 that I took it out of by sodering the positive power lead to what must have been the power lead for the brake lights.

 

I checked the bundle of wire going to the tailight area on the 1100R and by looking at the Clymer manual I see 3 brown wires I believe are power sources...but I don't know which one is for the taillight and which is for the turn signals...Although this bike has "running light" turn signals which stay on all the time.

 

So do I just tap into any of the brown wires? Or, does anyone have any better ideas that come with specific instructions?

 

Oh, might be relevant will be drawing approximately 4 amps...because Kenwood will be powered along with Autocom.

 

Please help.

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

[99Roadster]

Do they really mean to just shove the wire in the slot for the fuse and then shove the fuse in?

 

That has seemed to work just fine for my R1100R for about 5 years until it got moved to the RT. Turned on and off with the ignition. I think it was the number 5 fuse.

 

I would remove the Autocom during winter storage by disconnecting the power cable and put it back in the Spring. So the power cable was always connected. No problems.

[beagle]

Find out who installs the 2 way's on your cars. They can give you a special piece that slides on the fuse, then you plug it in. It has a prong that will stick up above the fuse and a female wire end will go on it. It's a 5 cent item, but you need to by 100. If the place that upfits your cars is too far away, go to a mower shop that installes snow plows. They'll have them too.

[casticus]

Beagle,

 

Thanks for the info I will check with our installers that work in my Motor Pool

 

Any idea why a BMW dealer would actually tap a brake line power cable (in the past)? Instead of doing this?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

[kcscout]

On my 1100RT, I connected it to the wires that feed the tail light (not the brake light).

 

There are two wires feeding the tail light, one of which has the exposed metal completely wrapped. This is positive. The other wire is negative.

 

Coming from the Autocom: Red=positive. Black=negative.

 

I stripped the Autocom wires at the end to expose the copper. Then, unplugged the tail light connectors and wedged the Autocom wires under the appropriate connector and slid each back on. It's a tight fight.

 

When I power up the bike, the tail light comes on and so does the Autocom. When I turn the bike off - it's all off.

[MarkEngland]

David,

I recommend that you install some type of fuse box (I use a Bluesea fuse box) and run all your electrical stuff from there. I did not read what type of bike you have, but on my past LT and current RT, I pulled power from the BMW Powerlet. The Powerlet is switched and on my LT and on my RT the power stays on for about 5 minutes after I turn off my bike which is nice since I use the Autocom and Garmin with my blue tooth phone. My Powerlet is on a 5 amp fuse if I remember correctly since it supports heated clothing. Below are some links that might be helpful.

 

BMW sells a simple “Y” connector that provides power from the BMW Powerlet. This part number was for my LT, but I’m sure it will work for any BMW since I used the same part number on my GS.

http://www.kc6tew.com/modifications/ltmods/bluesea/ltbluesea.html

 

Blue sea fuse box installed on my RT:

http://www.kc6tew.com/modifications/rtmods/bluesea/bluesea.html

 

Autocom installed on my RT:

http://www.kc6tew.com/modifications/rtmods/autocom/autocom.html

[UberXY]

My Autocom is mounted in the glove box of my RT. I just t-tapped into the wire that feeds the parking light - it's ignition switched, and easy to get to - didn't even have to remove fairing.

[teamogr]

I just installed an Autocom unit on my 1150RT and connected the positive wire to the blue fuse as specified in the Autocm directions for the RT. It works fine - but the fuse is not switched. And I think that the unit is drawing current even with headsets disconnected (although I do have headset extensions plugged in) as I had a low battery incident.

 

Does anybody know which fuse is safe and switched to use? With the ABS and such, I really don't want to be fiddling around in the fuse box. And I don't want to use a plug into the powerlet outlet.

[ggfossen]

Autocom has a unit that pulls power directly from the batt, and is energized by whatever source one chooses. The unit also has a fuse next to the relay. I attached it to the wire that feeds the rear aux power outlet,and I velcroed the box near the batt. Works well.

 

Gary

[Ken H.]

F1 and F8 are switched.

[teamogr]

Thanks for the info on the fuses!

[IamBob]

Did my post not take??

 

I tried to post this info but I didn't see it.. so will try again.

 

I went to Auto ZOne and purchased two of these http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-Add-Circuit-Fuseholder-Fuses/dp/B0009U64H4

 

Plugged one into the horn fuze and one i don't rememeber, but I have switchable power on both circuits.

 

It turns a single fuze slot into two fuzes, with a positive lead for your accessory. Both items get the proper fuze they need. It's a CHEAP alternative, and EASY (just had to trim the rubber on the cover of the fuze box)