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Roady 2 Questions


Dean123

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Hi,

I just bought a used Roady2. I am awaiting my Hoon mount from cyclegadgets along with the wiring kit also sold by cyclegadgets. I am going to mount the Roady2 on the clutch side resevoir. This morning I am going to go to the local FRYS and look for crimp connectors for this project.

Does anyone recall what gauge wire connectors I should get, both for the bike and the wiring kit.

 

Also, any tips for this installation? Do I wire power directly from battery? Unswitched? I do not have the radio kit on my '04 RT.

 

Thanks again. Dean

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Dean, crimp connectors are not the way to go. Solder it in. At least solder the positive lead.

 

As with all electronic accessories on your bike, your best connection is to go directly to the battery negative, and solder the positive to a switched lead that has nothing to do with the engine management system. Up front, I'd consider using the positive lead to the parking lamp. While not guaranteed, most of the grey/black wires on the bike are switched.

 

If you're using the Cycle Gadgets power cord with the 12V-to-6V reducer, be sure to leave that somewhere where there's good air flow. It tends to get warm.

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Thanks. I don't have a lot of experience with circuits. In terms of soldering, are you suggesting removing insulation somewhere convenient on the positive wire, wraping on the new accessory wire, soldering and taping with electrical tape? I remember hearing somewhere that soldered connections can be brittle, so I was thinking of tapping into a positive lead with a "t" crimp connector.

 

Your suggestion about tapping into the switched parking light seems good if it stays hot when the bike is running, but would otherwise only be hot if the parking light was on. Is this correct? Again, my knowledge of the bike's electrical system is zero. I have not even taken off the tuperware yet.

 

Others have suggested using an unused radio wire because I do not have a radio.

 

I appreciate the help as I am just starting to try and figure this stuff out.

 

Dean

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Soldering will not make things brittle. The connection will not have the flexibilty of a stranded wire, but they won't be brittle in the sense of being easily broken. Crimps and T comnnectors are designed for speed. The generally do not hold up as well over time.

 

If you are going to use ear plugs such as the ER6i (highly recommended) you really don't need a traditional radio. You can get audio from the output of the Roady. Just add a volume control of some sort. Radio Shack sells an inline volume control for about $10.

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Thanks. I am going to connect the Roady to the Autocomm unit with one of the connectors that is designed to eliminate ground loop noise. The Autocomm is located in the very rear section of the tail of the bike. I hope that the cable is long enough to go from the tail of the bike to the Roady2 mounted on the left handlebar area. Unless someone has an Autocomm in the same place? I will have to see if there is enough length once I start the project. Thanks.

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I am not familiar with the wiring kit you mentioned, but keep in mind that the Roady2 uses something like 5 volts, not 12. The Roady2 cigarette lighter plug is also a transformer that steps down the voltage. When I had a Roady2 installed (since replaced with a Zumo) I just bought a $5 cigarette socket from Radio Shack and wired that to a switched power source. Not only did I solder the connection, but I also used marine-type heat shrink tubing to seal the connection and help protect it from vibrating loose.

 

I then just plugged the Roady's plug into the socked I had connected to the bike.

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Thanks. I don't have a lot of experience with circuits. In terms of soldering, are you suggesting removing insulation somewhere convenient on the positive wire, wraping on the new accessory wire, soldering and taping with electrical tape? I remember hearing somewhere that soldered connections can be brittle, so I was thinking of tapping into a positive lead with a "t" crimp connector.

 

Your suggestion about tapping into the switched parking light seems good if it stays hot when the bike is running, but would otherwise only be hot if the parking light was on. Is this correct? Again, my knowledge of the bike's electrical system is zero. I have not even taken off the tuperware yet.

 

Others have suggested using an unused radio wire because I do not have a radio.

 

I appreciate the help as I am just starting to try and figure this stuff out.

 

Solder joints are never brittle. However, a soldered wire can break (eventually) just above where the solder ends because any flexing that would normally take place along the length that is soldered, gets concentrated at that one point (where the solder ends and the wires are flexible again). However, this only applies to wires that are routinely flexed and then only a substantial period of time. I doubt your application will cause that.

 

Second point, the power lead to the radio (that's not there) is a good source, however, it's very likely that power to that wire doesn't go off with the key, but only when the forks are locked. Check it out. You may end up inadvertently leaving your XM turned on.

 

 

Thanks. I am going to connect the Roady to the Autocomm unit with one of the connectors that is designed to eliminate ground loop noise. The Autocomm is located in the very rear section of the tail of the bike. I hope that the cable is long enough to go from the tail of the bike to the Roady2 mounted on the left handlebar area. Unless someone has an Autocomm in the same place? I will have to see if there is enough length once I start the project. Thanks.

 

I doubt your #1314 isolated lead will reach from the handlebars to the rear cowling of the bike. You will need a stereo extension lead, probably from Radio Shack. A 3ft. extension will do it, although RS rarely has them any shorter than 6ft.

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