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Yet another Autocom Pro M1 install question; this time on my VFR


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I finally have a little time to install my 'new to me' Autocom Pro M1 in my VFR (thanks again David ! thumbsup.gif).


The power leads are: one solid red wire, and one red w/black stripe wire.

Not being particularly sharp, electrically speaking anyway, I attached the red w/black stripe lead to the neg. terminal on the batt., and the solid red lead to the pos. terminal. Result: the unit is on all the time (of course).


My guess is that I need to take the solid red lead and connect it to a switched power wire/source, yes/no?


On the VFR site, it was suggested that I put in a 12V automotive relay, run a wire from the licence plate light to the relay, then out from the relay, through a 10A fuse/wire to the autocom. Ok, I think I get that, but why bother with the relay?, why not just run a 10A fuse/wire from the solid red lead to the lic. plate lt., red w/black stripe wire to the neg. terminal on the batt. and call it a day?


Is there a better, simpler way to do this?


The goal is to be able to hook the Autocom up to my V1 for the audio warnings.


Powering the V1 will be the next task, but from what I've seen in the harness V1 sent me, I'm hoping I can just wire it direct to the batt. terminals (with a fuse in line), turn in on/off with the V1's knob, and be done with it (I hope).


Comments? Suggestions?

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Black wire (or black/red in this instance) to the battery ground. Red wire to a switched lead that has nothing to do with the engine's ignition/management. No relay required. A fuse is good piece-of-mind, although you won't need more than a 2A (still, I believe the Autocom is internally protected). The Autocom draws less than 1A unless you plan on powering a Kenwood TK3101 from the Autocom, in which case a 4A will cover you.

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You might just run it on a 9 volt battery. I had my M1 hardwired on my LT and never go around to doing it on my new RT. Works fine. When you plug in one of the helmet leads it turns the unit on -- not sure if it's same when hardwired. I pop it into my tank bag. The 9v route also makes it easy to check setups on the family room couch instead of in the garage.

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Aerostitch sells a switch that can be controlled by a hand held remote (about the size of an auto door remote) for $18. The Aerostitch web site talks about it like it's some joke or novelty item. It really works. I purchased mine from a marine store web site but I cannot remember where. Mine works great and controls power to my Zumo and Escort. It's probably not usable for high power things like lights or heated clothing.


It's a clean install and doesn't require finding a place to put a switch. The unit, which is small, rests under my seat. I keep the remote in my tankbag and have pushbutton on and off.



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