Rear wheel removal on an R1150RT

[Toolman_Johnny]

Sorry for the newbie question here, but what's the trick to removing the rear wheel? I haven't received my shop manual yet, and wanted to remove the rear wheel to a fit a new tire....but the tire is too wide making removal of the wheel impossible (the wide tire won't fit in between the swingarm and the exhaust) unless I either remove the swingarm...or the exhaust. By the way, I've already tried removing the air from the tire...but it's still much to wide to pass through.

Thanks, Toolman_Johnny

[kruuuzn]

Don't feel like the lone stranger. I asked the SAME thing a couple of weeks ago.

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/848702/page/0/fpart/all/vc/1

 

Keeping a couple of lugs in the wheel is good advice. Don't scratch your rim like I did!

 

[GordonB]

Have you removed the rear fender/mud flap?

If so, just give it a good wiggle and tug straight back (careful of pulling the bike over)

[BluegrassPicker]

I had the same problem. let the air out and soapy water worked. Be carefull not to pull the bike on to yourself.

[E30TECH]

When you go to reinstall the wheel, you may want to put some duct tape or the like on the nut on the right side. Once the tire slips past the exhaust, the rim can hit that nut and gouge the rim.

[Davis]

If you loosen the clamp where the cat attaches to the header, you can rotate the cat slightly, moving the bottom of the muffler away from the swingarm, before retightening the clamp. This should give a little more clearance to remove the rear wheel. While sliding the wheel out is a tight fit, letting the air out, soaping the rim, and other contortions shouldn't be required.

[OlGeezer]

Instead of that bolt, I remove the bolt attaching the muffler to the frame right at the left rear foot peg. That gives it enough flexibility to move it out of the way. I am then able to rotate it out and push it out on the right side, between the final drive and the fender w/o removing the mud flap.

 

I put duct tape over the final drive bearing nut prior to removal and I don't remove it until the wheel is back in place.

 

Ensure you have a proper torque wrench where the 105 N-m (~75 ft.-lbs) isn't at the end of the range but more at the middle of the range. I got a 150 ft.-lb wrench just for this purpose. Torque wrenches aren't usually very accurate at either end of their ranges.

 

Just my two cents.

[Davis]

My point was if you adjust the position at the cat to header junction, you only have to do it once. A slight adjustment, retighten the clamp and you can remove the wheel without removing the fender, letting the air out of the tire, loosening any of the exhaust mounting, etc. for the life of the bike.

[OlGeezer]

My point was if you adjust the position at the cat to header junction, you only have to do it once. A slight adjustment, retighten the clamp and you can remove the wheel without removing the fender, letting the air out of the tire, loosening any of the exhaust mounting, etc. for the life of the bike.

 

Great tip. I'll try to remember that the next time I change my rear tire. That should be fairly soon. I'm starting to accumulate money in my bank account again.

The next tire will be the bike's 21st.

[Architekt2]

I removed my rear wheel and it was simple. I used the manual that came with the motorcycle and it tells you how to do it both removal and attaching a new tire.