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Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil


Grayrider

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Who's running Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil? I'm due for an oil change and somewhere I read that some people are running Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil. I'd like to try it so if some one could tell me what weight and grade they are running that would be great. Do I have to get a specific motorcycle oil or can I run something else?

 

I'm riding an R1100RT, if that makes a difference.

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I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30 for the last 25k miles.

 

Good stuff!

 

Once you go syn, you won't go back.

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I use the 20w 50 because that's what the dealer initially used, but mainly because of the Hi heat out here in the desert during the summer.

 

Wal Mart has it for about $4.20 a quart, best price around...

 

clap.gif

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I have been using Mobil 1 15W50 for years and tens of thousands of miles. Go to Wally World and get it in the gallon jug... Look for the red cap.

 

Some Wal-Marts carry it some, for what ever reason either don't or are always out.

 

OBTW Sam's Club also carries it at really good prices- but again some carry the Red Cap 15W50 and some do not. If you are in a big city go to the Sams in the more industrial part of town. Seriously.

 

I went into a lot of study on this when I switched. There's no going back for me.

 

I had a hard time figuring out what the number systems ment- beyond the obvious so more research revealed this simple way of explaining "weight" ratings: The number system means that in cold temperatures the oil will act like a 15 weight, and when hot it will thin out no more than a straight 50 weight. Very handy stuff.

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i use mobil 1 motorcycle oil, 20/50w. get it at walmart for 6.86 qt. it is in the motorcycle section and not in the oil section. i feel better when it gets to 7 bars on the heat scale.

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+1 on the 15W50. I checked the owner's manual and that's how I interpret the chart for my riding temp. I've noticed that now on a nice cold morning or in a cold start in the rain, the temp takes longer to reach the 5th bar. Also, while in a traffic jam in Denver the Monday after Easter, my bike did finally get up to the mark just before the max temp, but it took WAY longer than it used to with dino oil. Also, I notice that the oil cools down much quicker than with the dino oil. I still use the 6K oil change interval though, I don't push the synth any further. One other side effect is that I don't have to use the cold start lever anywhere near what I used to. Seldom do I have to pull the lever all the way up. The detent seems to be sufficient now.

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I run mobil 1 syn. extended mileage 15W-50 which is supposedly good for 1 year or 15k miles whichever comes first. However, I usually change it out at about 8 months-9 months, as I knew from the get-go that I would only have the bike until my cancer got worse, and when I go to sell bike I don't want the prospective buyer to freak out thinking I waited too long to change the oil. The next buyer may still think that way- even if it is syn. ext. mileage oil. I don't have to worry about the mileage part, b/c of health reasons, I have not put a lot of miles on the bike. 1)I thought I had read where someone on this forum had run the mobil 1 syn. ext. mileage for either a year or 15K and then had an oil analysis done which came back as still within specs. Does anyone remember this?

2)I guess if you wanted to test the theory on the 1 year or 15K miles (which most people are probably afraid to do)

you would want to change out the oil filter at 6 months and use maybe the mobil 1 oil filter or the Purolator oil filter (PureOne maybe? the one that goes for about $7 and has a higher micron efficiency.)It would be interesting to see the lab results after one year or 15K. I will turn on my flame suit now.

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Who's running Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil? I'm due for an oil change and somewhere I read that some people are running Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil. I'd like to try it so if some one could tell me what weight and grade they are running that would be great. Do I have to get a specific motorcycle oil or can I run something else?

 

I'm riding an R1100RT, if that makes a difference.

 

Grayrider, up till about a year & a half ago that’s about the only oil I would use in all my motorcycles.. That older Mobil 1 -RED CAP 15W50 was probably the best motorcycle oil out FOR THE MONEY Good solid PAO base stock & good anti-wear additive package.. Sure there are slightly better oil’s available but not by much & certainly not at the same low price..

 

Then Mobil got greedy just like most other oil companies & changed the 15W50 Red Cap to the new & improved Gold Cap extended drain 15W50.. Sure is new & improved (for them) they marketed a Golden Cap golden goose.. Now there is nothing really wrong with the Mobil 1- 15W50 Gold Cap & it does meet most motorcycle specs but it isn’t the same as it was,. The new Gold Cap is more in line with auto usage specs with less to offer in regards to motorcycle usage & their unique oil requirements.. In reading the Mobil 1- 15W50 Gold Cap spec sheet they seem to have dumbed the spec sheet down hoping most people won’t question the new oil’s content.. It’s difficult to tell but the spec sheet seems to be lacking some prime information so lacking the information they don’t seem to want to release I’m guessing it is no longer a PAO based true synthetic but instead a Dino based that meets synthetic specs (lots of oil’s qualify there, even the cheap or rather poor synthetic marketed ones)..

 

You still have the Mobil 1- V-Twin 15W50 motorcycle oil & as far as I can tell that is still the older formula that is based on a PAO base stock.. That would still be a great motorcycle oil that can take a lot of abuse & more importantly a lot of engine heat & still perform to a high degree.. Problem is; that Mobil 1 V-Twin oil is a lot more expensive than the now standard Gold Cap 15W50 & in my area even more expensive than the Amsoil 15W50 PAO based motorcycle oil… If you are going to pay the big money you might as well use the proven Amsoil..

 

Now don’t read too much into the above as basically oil is oil & ANY oil that meets or exceeds your manufacturers specs will work perfectly fine.. As long as you don’t run the oil near the top of it’s heat rating range,, don’t hammer the throttle on a very cold engine,, & change it fairly often most all that meets manufacturers specs will perform good.. .Where the good (read quality) PAO based engine oil’s really shine are in high heat/high load situations,, extreme load cold start,, high load/high RPM cold drive away,, long intervals between oil changes,, & in high stress oil shearing situations (like integral engine/transmission gear box’s or lots of chains & gears in the engine rotating at high RPM’s..

 

Twisty

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Hate to break the news, but for several years now, Mobil1, as well as most other so-called "synthetics" are mainly made from Group 3 DINO stock. There was an interesting court case involving Mobil and Castro, on this matter, and it was decided in favor of Castrol. The judge ruled that the term "synthetic" had come to mean a certain level of performance, NOT how the oil was made.

 

Modern Group 3 (super highly refined) Dino oils perform on a par with "true" synthetics, but cost less. As a result nearly ALL "synthetic" oils you can by, are mainly Group 3 Dino based. Mobil 1 included.

 

This makes the Dino versus Synthetic argument rather irrelivant.

 

More to the point, you would be far better off to use a diesel-rated "Heavy Duty" oil like Rotella or Rotella-T (15W-40). These oils ARE superior to normal car oils. They contain no friction modifiers and so are safe to use with a wet clutch (avoid ANY oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API Donut, if you have a wet clutch!). But most importantly, they have increased levels of the Extreme Pressure Additive ZDDP that BMW has warned about. These are the oils that allow big diesel rigs to go 100,000 miles between oil changes. Even better, Rotella-T costs about $10 a gallon.

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Jim VonBaden

Since none of the boxers have a wet clutch, use oil, any oil, and it will work fine.

 

Most people overthink the oil issue.

 

If you change your oil on a regular basis, and keep it full, it really doesn't matter.

 

Oh, and I use Castrol, Mobile 1, Valvoline, or whatever I feel like at the time. Either 15W50, or 20W50, year round, even in the dead of winter.

 

Jim cool.gif

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Hate to break the news, but for several years now, Mobil1, as well as most other so-called "synthetics" are mainly made from Group 3 DINO stock. There was an interesting court case involving Mobil and Castro, on this matter, and it was decided in favor of Castrol. The judge ruled that the term "synthetic" had come to mean a certain level of performance, NOT how the oil was made.

 

Modern Group 3 (super highly refined) Dino oils perform on a par with "true" synthetics, but cost less. As a result nearly ALL "synthetic" oils you can by, are mainly Group 3 Dino based. Mobil 1 included.

 

This makes the Dino versus Synthetic argument rather irrelivant.

 

More to the point, you would be far better off to use a diesel-rated "Heavy Duty" oil like Rotella or Rotella-T (15W-40). These oils ARE superior to normal car oils. They contain no friction modifiers and so are safe to use with a wet clutch (avoid ANY oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the API Donut, if you have a wet clutch!). But most importantly, they have increased levels of the Extreme Pressure Additive ZDDP that BMW has warned about. These are the oils that allow big diesel rigs to go 100,000 miles between oil changes. Even better, Rotella-T costs about $10 a gallon.

 

Oh! Really… I guess Amsoil hasn’t heard about that as they are still built on PAO base stock.. As far as I know so is the Mobil 1- 15W50 - V-Twin (or at least according the latest spec sheet I have)..

 

 

You might want to check the latest Rotella T specs are there has been quite a change in that oil also to meet the new truck emission rules so as to not hinder truck exhaust emission devices… (it ain’t your fathers Rotella-T anymore)

 

Twisty

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Pardon my ignorance ... but what is PAO stock (and why is it different)?? confused.gif

 

PAO = Poly-Alpha-Olefin

 

In a nut shell it is a ground up manufactured oil base stock at the molecular level .. At one time PAO was (about) the only way to get a good synthetic oil that flowed out well when real cold but still had very good high heat handling abilities.. With some breakthroughs in Group 3 oil technology most oil companies are starting to get close to PAO type performance with the Dino based group 3 oil’s.. In the lower viscosity ranges like 0W20, 5W30, etc the group 3 oil’s are very close in both cold weather & extreme heat performance.. They are still a little lacking the upper viscosity ranges like 15W50 & 20W50 though..

 

Twisty

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Oh! Really… I guess Amsoil hasn’t heard about that as they are still built on PAO base stock..

Read closer. I said "MOST synthetics".

 

You might want to check the latest Rotella T specs are there has been quite a change in that oil also to meet the new truck emission rules so as to not hinder truck exhaust emission devices… (it ain’t your fathers Rotella-T anymore)

My father never used the stuff. My information came form a discussion with a Shell oils engineer. Rotella, Rotella-T and Chevron's equivalent. Delo400, all have elevated levels of ZDDP, as compared to typical car oils. It is the relatively recent reduction of ZDDP that caused BMW to release a service bulletin warning of this, and stating that they did not "approve" of the use of any car-type oil spec'd later than SH. One of the oil types they DID specifically "approve" was "Brand Name Heavy Duty" oils, of which the above diesel-rated oils are an example. Spectro, and also BMW's own branded oil, are also examples (at a much higher price) of oils that still have elevated ZDDP content.

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Thanks guys! I'll be switching next week......

 

If Grayrider switches to synthetic, can he safely change back to dino oil?

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Dick_at_Lake_Tahoe_NV
Thanks guys! I'll be switching next week......

 

If Grayrider switches to synthetic, can he safely change back to dino oil?

 

No problem switching back and forth, but I'm not sure why you would want to. Also,if you need to add oil and synthetic is not available you can add dino oil--no problem with mixing them.

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My information came form a discussion with a Shell oils engineer. Rotella, Rotella-T and Chevron's equivalent. Delo400, all have elevated levels of ZDDP, as compared to typical car oils.
Twisty's comment was in regard to the new Rotella formulation. Is this the specific product you discussed with the Shell engineer? Given that many diesels now use a catalytic converter it's quite possible that ZDDP levels are now being reduced in diesel oils for the same reason that they have been reduced in car oils.
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SteveHebert
I run mobil 1 syn. extended mileage 15W-50 which is supposedly good for 1 year or 15k miles whichever comes first. However, I usually change it out at about 8 months-9 months, as I knew from the get-go that I would only have the bike until my cancer got worse, and when I go to sell bike I don't want the prospective buyer to freak out thinking I waited too long to change the oil. The next buyer may still think that way- even if it is syn. ext. mileage oil. I don't have to worry about the mileage part, b/c of health reasons, I have not put a lot of miles on the bike. 1)I thought I had read where someone on this forum had run the mobil 1 syn. ext. mileage for either a year or 15K and then had an oil analysis done which came back as still within specs. Does anyone remember this?

2)I guess if you wanted to test the theory on the 1 year or 15K miles (which most people are probably afraid to do)

you would want to change out the oil filter at 6 months and use maybe the mobil 1 oil filter or the Purolator oil filter (PureOne maybe? the one that goes for about $7 and has a higher micron efficiency.)It would be interesting to see the lab results after one year or 15K. I will turn on my flame suit now.

 

This Mobil 1 motorcycle oil started showing up a couple of years ago and the price is about $3 more per quart than the standard car oil. I think that you will find most here use straight out car oil and save the extra $3. I believe it to be "basically" the same oil. I have only used the car grade Mbile 1 for many thousands of miles.

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Ozonkiller

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

 

Here is one of the best oil threads that I have found that explains the latest chsnges to oils. Most importantly to me it explains the difference between the old Mobile One "red cap" vs. the "new and improved" gold cap,

 

It also clarifies that the diesel oils no longer have the high levels of zinc and stuff that used to make them desireable

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http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

 

Here is one of the best oil threads that I have found that explains the latest chsnges to oils. Most importantly to me it explains the difference between the old Mobile One "red cap" vs. the "new and improved" gold cap,

 

It also clarifies that the diesel oils no longer have the high levels of zinc and stuff that used to make them desireable

Thanks for the link, that's an excellent article with (for once) real data instead of the usual ambiguous statements and groundless claims.

 

The new CJ diesel oil situation is as I feared and the information about Mobil 1 15W-50 EP is also very interesting. I went out and looked at my 15W-50 EP stock and luckily it's all the SL version. I've also noticed the old 'red cap' Mobil 1 15W-50 version reappearing in specialty stores, looks like this one is OK as long as it stays at SL. If not then we may be stuck with the motorcycle version as the only option. It's frustrating that oil manufacturers don't publish this sort of information themselves so the buyer actually knows what he's getting.

 

This is all assuming of course that the difference between a .08 or .12 ZDDP level really makes any meaningful difference in the life of your engine. But if you like to obsess about that stuff then this article at least provides some real data to obsess over.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I've also noticed the old 'red cap' Mobil 1 15W-50 version reappearing in specialty stores,
Just FYI... the 'new' old red cap 15W-50 is SM/SL rated, but from the Mobil 1 website (emphasis mine):

 

 

Mobil 1 15W-50

 

Back by popular demand, Mobil 1® 15W-50's high viscosity provides outstanding performance in high-revving, high-temperature conditions.

 

* API SM/SL

* Requirements for Diesel Powered Vehicles where an API CF or API CD is recommended

* Provides extra anti-wear additive for older vehicles

 

Mobil 1 15W-50 is formulated with SuperSyn, an extra-high viscosity synthetic fluid, plus extra anti-wear additive to provide extra protection for severe service applications such as towing, hauling and racing. Mobil 1 15W-50 is recommended for high performance vehicles including turbocharged and supercharged engines where a thicker oil film is desired.

 

Mobil 1 15W-50 is also recommended for older valve train designs that may benefit from a higher level of anti-wear normally not required for newer generation vehicles. Mobil 1 15W-50 will also provide better anti-wear protection for higher valve spring tensions in certain racing engines.

 

 

While they don't mention ZDDP levels explicitly a higher level (than their other current car & truck oils) would seem to be implied.

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Who's running Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil?

Mobil 1 is no longer "synthetic". It is mainly formulated from Hydrocracked GROUP 3 Dino stock.

 

The point here is that ever since Mobil lost its famous lawsuit against Castrol, where Mobil objected to Castrol's Syntec being made mainly from Group 3 stock, the word "synthetic" now has referred to an oil's performance level, not what it is made from. As a result of the outcome of this lawsuit, and the dramatic recent increase in true synthetic feedstock, most manufacturers' "synthetic" oils are mainly Group 3 sourced.

 

Not that any of this matters much. What matters is the oil's performance, not the manufacturing process it uses. People tend to get obsessive about the supposed benefits of "synthetic" oil, just because it says "Synthetic". There are all sorts of false claims made for it (such as the erronious claim that synthetics are more slippery). Personally, I follow BMW's recommendation to use a "Brand Name type "HD" oil", so I use Shell Rotella-T or Chevron's Delo 400. Both these so-called HD "Diesel Oils" have much higher levels of the extreme pressure additive ZDDP (that BMW is so worried about) than normal "car oils" have (synthetic or not). With nearly 200,000 km on my bike, and the fact that it doesn't burn a drop of oil in 6 months of daily use (including year round commuting, and several long trips every year), I suspect my oil choice is not too far wrong.

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People tend to get obsessive about the supposed benefits of "synthetic" oil, just because it says "Synthetic".
+1

 

It's all 99% marketing hype.

 

But, everyone can buy whatever they like I guess if it makes them feel better. The vehicle won't be any different for it though.

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It's all 99% marketing hype.
Agreed that there is far more hype than substance in synthetic oil claims. I use it for one reason only, and that is for whatever extra high-temperature protection it may provide as riding in summer around here can be pretty brutal on an air-cooled engine. Whether the extra headroom in Group 3/synthetic oils would ever make any difference in engine longevity is certainly open to debate, but like Bob I tend to stick with something that has worked well for me for many years. That said, I'd be happy with one of the 15W-40 diesel oils but for the fact that BMW clearly recommends a 50-weight oil for high temperature operation. In Canada I wouldn't consider this much of an issue, but in Texas...
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buy the motorcycle specific mobil one and you dont have to worry about the color of the cap. 6.86 at walmart in the motorcycle section, not the oil section.

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ShovelStrokeEd

For a buck more, buy Shell Rotella dino oil, except you get a gallon for that price. As I have oft stated, your motor can't read.

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I'd be happy with one of the 15W-40 diesel oils but for the fact that BMW clearly recommends a 50-weight oil for high temperature operation.

That is the main reason I have not yet run the rotella.

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LanceJFerraro

In 1976 I clenched my teeth and poured M-1 in the engine of my new Honda CB400F (I loved that bike.) This was back when synthetics weren't necessarily compatible with things like gaskets, oil filter adhesives, clutch adhesives and such. All ended well and I've been using it since in everything. I put the used oil in the lawn mower, and the difference that made in that Briggs & Stratton flathead was amazing. It used a lot less gas and didn't need as much throttle to do the same work, hence the less gas use. thumbsup.gif I out it into a HOnda 4 stroke generator, which ran for 15 more minutes on the same amount of fuel. I think it is good stuff, but I'm on the fence as to whether to keep using it since the definition of synthetic changed. confused.gif

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but I'm on the fence as to whether to keep using it since the definition of synthetic changed.
Much is made (usually by a specific vendor wink.gif) of the use of Group III vs. PAO bases in 'synthetic' oils, but in modern formulations the high-temperature performance of both are very close. PAOs retain an advantage at extreme low temperatures but obviously this is not much of a consideration for a motorcycle oil. If you prefer to use synthetic oil and stick with a reputable vendor then I wouldn't worry much about issue.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Since Castrol started this oily mess with their suit against Mobil, how do you all think Castrol Synec compairs to Mobil 1 red cap? Is it as good as the other heavy duty oils mentioned? It's on sale at Strauss this week for $4.69/qt., so I want to know...should I buy it? confused.gif

BTW it's available in 5w50

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I've been running Mobil 1 in both of my trucks and my bike for the past several years.

 

I was in Target last year and they had priced their 20W50 Mobil 1 at 1.39 a quart and stocked up for the bike, and it wasn't just the one Target, I checked several and they all had it priced at 1.39. I'm out now, but will replace with Mobil 1 again this time around. I've been real happy with it, rode through the winter, and I never had a problem starting it cold, and no burn off in the last 6,000 miles on my 2002 RS.

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  • 3 weeks later...

For what it's worth, I was recently instructed (chastized? smile.gif ) by a person at my dealer, whose knowledge and opinion I have a lot of faith in, that no automotive oil is good to use in a boxer, that it's just not made for the harsh duty of a MC engine. I've been using Mobil 1 15w50 EP for the last 2k.

 

I know next to nothing about the science in oil, but this thread is an informative read, and I thought the conversation was worth mention.

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[With nearly 200,000 km on my bike, and the fact that it doesn't burn a drop of oil in 6 months of daily use (including year round commuting, and several long trips every year), I suspect my oil choice is not too far wrong.

 

Bob, Bob, Bob:

 

You are the refreshing, lone voice of rationality in the never-ending oil debate. I've always said talking oil among motorcyclists is like discussing religion.

 

We sure (me included) have some funny (obsessive-compulsive?) ideas about oil.

 

I love your point: 200,000 kms, no problem. To me, that's the ultimate proof. If you said you were using Perrier in your crankcase and got that result, I'd switch!

 

The oil issue is a fun one to watch members discuss. Did anyone notice a couple of issues ago in Cycle World, technical guru Kevin Cameron said he doesn't use synthetic in any of his own bikes, just plain 'oil'.

 

Food for thought for all of us.

 

Don't worry. Be happy. Ride. smile.gif

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I would check your handbook re your 10w30 mate...10w40 at a minimum and preferably 15w50 or 20w50 is recommended for "higher ambient temp" applications.

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