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clutch safety start switch


cletus58

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I am having a problem starting my bike unless I put in neutral.I have cleaned the clutch but its still sticking.How bad and how expensive is the part

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If we are talking about the clutch safety switch located at the clutch lever it is a $15.00 part, and a couple hours rerouting the wiring to the harness.

I take it the bike will start when the nuetral light is on?

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russell_bynum
Yes it will start in neutral.What all do I have to go thru to replace the switch?

 

You have two options:

1. Cut the wires at the switch, short them together, and cover with tape. (warning: The bike will be able to start in gear with the clutch out if you do this.)

2. Replace the switch.

 

To replace the switch...

 

I cut the wire and was able to slip a deep socket over it to extract it. I did mine when I had all the tupperware (including the nose) off the bike for other stuff, so it wasn't a big deal at all. Depending on where your connector is and how big your hands are, you might be able to get to it without removing any of the plastic. Otherwise, I'd start with left side fairing. If that doesn't give you the roomm you need, the dash would be next. If that doesn't help, you'll have to go ahead and pull the right side fairing and nose. It isn't really that big of a deal...just more stuff to unbolt and remove.

 

I was able to screw the new switch in with needle-nosed pliers.

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Yes it will start in neutral.What all do I have to go thru to replace the switch?

 

You have two options:

1. Cut the wires at the switch, short them together, and cover with tape. (warning: The bike will be able to start in gear with the clutch out if you do this.)

2. Replace the switch.

 

To replace the switch...

 

I cut the wire and was able to slip a deep socket over it to extract it. I did mine when I had all the tupperware (including the nose) off the bike for other stuff, so it wasn't a big deal at all. Depending on where your connector is and how big your hands are, you might be able to get to it without removing any of the plastic. Otherwise, I'd start with left side fairing. If that doesn't give you the roomm you need, the dash would be next. If that doesn't help, you'll have to go ahead and pull the right side fairing and nose. It isn't really that big of a deal...just more stuff to unbolt and remove.

 

I was able to screw the new switch in with needle-nosed pliers.

 

 

I would go with the new switch.

1: for saftey reasons

2: for liability reasons

You can test it by shorting the wires together just to see if that is the problem then replace if necessary .

Even if the switch is unreliable you can still start in neutral ,so no big deal .

But if disconnected and someone else rides your bike or if you sell it and someone gets hurt . Guess who will be liable .

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russell_bynum

But if disconnected and someone else rides your bike or if you sell it and someone gets hurt . Guess who will be liable .

 

That's a sad commentary into the current state of affairs in this country.

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Thanks for your support.I soldered the wires together and put heat shrink on them.It made a good temporary fix till I get a new switch.

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2: for liability reasons

Are you thinking this will avoid him from suing himself?

 

 

 

I guess you never what can happen anymore.

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Even if the switch is unreliable you can still start in neutral ,so no big deal.

Not necessarily. The neutral switch is also extremely unreliable. You will know when it goes bad because you won't see a neutral light when you are in neutral. That, combined with a clutch switch failure can be a real PITA. Here's a nifty little trick. You can start the bike with a bad neutral switch and a bad clutch switch by pulling the starter relay and jumpering hole 2 to hole 6 with a thin piece of wire with the ignition on. Slick!

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