ABS needs resetting again,again,...........

[Graham UK]

Sorry for another post on this, but it's driving me nuts

Bike, 2000 1100rt. Problem, constantly having to reset ABS. (earth middle connector under seat, 8 seconds etc.etc.)

Why the hell am I having to do this a couple of times a week??? I always wait about 10 seconds after turning on ignition before starting but it seems to have a mind of it's own.

So before I take the bulbs out, cut the wires, remove the brake pads, PLEASE can someone help keep me sane.

 

Thanks,

Graham

[KingBee]

I ran a Westco gel battery for a summer and had the same problem. Battery didn't provide enough voltage.

[Rinkydink]

Buy and install new battery, then take bulbs out, cut wires and remove brake pads and tell us if that fixes your problem.

[A-Red Bill]

Probably low battery voltage but maybe not. Go to the ibmwr.org site and download the oilhead maintenance manual. Page 72 explains how to read ABS system fault codes. Takes the guesswork out of it and it's easy.

 

Then you will likely need a battery.

[Zot]

Graham,

 

For what it's worth, I was about to "Wig out" myself last summer. I had read all the posts, installed a new battery although it tested fine and still, like you I had to reset the ABS system what seemed like every second time I started the bike, (Same year and model as yours).

 

I did something this spring that seems to have solved the problem and it wasn't "Voltage related" at all.

 

Try bringing the ABS sensor in closer to the rotor,I removed the thinest shim from the front wheel pickup sensor and "Voila" no more alternating "Blinkey-Blinkey" since,and I know that there have been times since when the battery was not right up at start-up.

Just make certain to turn the wheel by hand after removing shims to ensure that the pickup sensor has sufficiant clearance to the rotor wheel.

 

Hope that helps you.

[Clive Liddell]

While you are in the IBMWR site look for the ABS modification done by Mick. It's excellent with plenty of illustrations. I did not do it with the relay as described but just used a "press to off normally on" switch to reset the ABS.

[Bob_Minor]

Sorry for another post on this, but it's driving me nuts

Bike, 2000 1100rt. Problem, constantly having to reset ABS. (earth middle connector under seat, 8 seconds etc.etc.)

 

If your ABS is failing well after start-up, like when you're actually using the brakes, you likely have something else going on besides low battery voltage. It could be a sensor (hopefully), the ABS relay, the pump or the brain. The last two are really expensive. The system stores fault codes, there may be a procedure out there to read them yourself but a dealer can plug it into their computer and tell you quickly what is failing.

[Davis]

+1, if the system is hard faulting which doesn't reset by turning off the ignition but requires grounding the pin of the diagnostic connector to reset, it isn't a low voltage fault and a new battery, relay or reset switch isn't going to make any difference. Get a multimeter or LED and the next time it faults, follow the procedure posted above on the IBMWR site to read the stored code. If it tells you front sensor, follow the wiring to the sensor and look carefully for a wire tie installed too tightly. It wasn't unheard of for a wire tie to cause an intermittent break in the wire to the front sensor.

[John Dickens]

Have you tried reading out the fault code after it's failed?

This happened to me in France. At first it stayed reset for a while then it got worse until it wouldn't reset at all.

I read out the fault code and replaced a faulty wheel sensor. This cured the problem totally.

 

If you're not sure PM me and I'll explain how.

[notacop]

I'm having the same problem on a 2000RTP, New battery, removed thin shims from front and rear, went away for most of yesterday. Came on just after gassing up. Removed another shim fromt the front today.

If it comes back on my two weeks on the road I'll just pull the rely from under the seat and ignore the remaining light.

Too bad someone doesn't make a fuel cell to replace the dead servo unit wnen it eventually craps!

[Davis]

Rather than randomly trying things, why not read the error code and determine what problem you need to solve?

[Graham UK]

Thanks to you all for the replies. Finally got the time off to try a few things. Firstly, the battery is 2 years old so I thought that is probably OK. Next easiest to try is the sensors, so stripped them out & re fitted. Don't know if this is normal, but the gap was less than 15 thou.front & rear. No point in going beyond that so got them back to as near 21 as poss. Back together and bugger me, no more problem. Can't say if it was wire or gap problem, but the ties were VERY tight.

Anyway, I'm happy again and bulbs & cables are still intact.

It's funny how little things annoy, and and the wealth of information from this board puts it right

Cheers all,

Graham

ps. don't know fault code, no analogue meter and a bit lazy I suppose.

[GordonB]

Here's a remote possibility.......

My ABS lites would not stop flashing on my 1100RT, and after trying a new battery and yada yada yada, turns out the flasher relay (in fuse box) had popped up and was making only partial contact. Pushed it back in snug and problem went away (hey it's worth a try).

[Green RT]

Here is another remote possibility...

 

I had the same problem. In my case the hard fault would occur, not on start up, but after starting off and hitting a bump. I finally clipped all of the cable ties on the sensor cable. I know it sounds crazy, but it absolutely cleared the problem. I probably had numerous (30,40, ?) hard faults at increasingly shorter intervals in the weeks leading up to cutting the cable ties. I have had zero faults in the years since. I did add one very loose cable tie to keep the cable from getting into trouble.

[Dan Gleebitz]

Firstly .... Battery (Gel Type) is 2 yrs old and kept on a trickle charge and turns over the engine with no problems. Shows 12.7 Volts across terminals

 

Brake fluid is OK and changed a couple of months ago

 

Today, got bike out and set off. The ABS lights were flashing alternatively (not done that for a long time) but thought I'd recycle the Ignition when the engine was warm. Pressed ABS button

 

Well I tried that a couple of time but with no avail. When I got where we were going, I turned off the engine but there was a continious motor running under the tank and still ran with key out. Decided to make the run home and cut short journey as I had few tools with me.

 

On getting home the motor noise was still there, so I whipped the fairing off and disconnected the battery ... noise stopped.

 

After a few mins reconnected the battery and motor no longer running but the lights still flashing alternatively.

 

Had a poke around under the fairing and reset the ABS using diagnostic port and a piece of wire ..... still has flashing lights ..

 

 

Any offers what might be the problem?

[OlGeezer]

Go to the ibmwr.org site and download the oilhead maintenance manual. Page 72 explains how to read ABS system fault codes.

 

Is there a version of this for the 1150?

 

Does anyone have a correct link to Henry's LED fault code reader?

[Ken H.]

Does anyone have a correct link to Henry's LED fault code reader?

Not applicable to the 1150 series. For them you need the dealer's GT-1 or one of the aftermarket readers like Hex.co's GS-911

[John Dickens]

I turned off the engine but there was a continious motor running under the tank and still ran with key out

 

Sounds like the ABS relay is stuck on. (Number 5)

 

 

It's actually behind a cover (9) on the ABS unit itself.

[arbee]

My ABS decided it needed more... so it was applying the brakes, oh so gently, just enough to heat up the disks and bind the front wheel until it got so hot i could cook an egg on the front rotors.

When i applied the front brakes the hose burst spraying brake fluid all over the exhaust pipe and simulating that my bike was on fire

3 Grand for a new ABS so it comes off and i will be happy to see it go.. 5 kgs less.. no more flashing lights

no more reliant on BMW to rip me off yet again on their servicing for that mystical magical ABS that only they know how to handle.

[Dan Gleebitz]

Any one removed their ABS? Any problems foreseen? New brake lines from master cylinder to the calipers ..is it that easy?

[tazdeyo]

hey thanks for that site i have been having trouble with my ABS for over a year sometimes when Id take off fast the lights would go off. or in the summer but not the winter. a friend told me to clean them and I did and it solved it fo ra while. now the abs stays on all the time. arrrggh i'll try the suggestions mentioned.

[Ken H.]

Any one removed their ABS? Any problems foreseen? New brake lines from master cylinder to the calipers ..is it that easy?

Yeah it's been done. (What hasn't?) I wouldn't want to under simplify the job, but basically that's it. Plumb around the ABS unit and you have conventional brakes.

[Bob_Minor]

Any one removed their ABS? Any problems foreseen? New brake lines from master cylinder to the calipers ..is it that easy?

 

I removed the ABS from a '96 RS a few years ago. I used a non-ABS brake line kit from Galfer (two lines directly from the master to the front calipers) for the front and the BMW non-ABS rear master cyclinder to brake caliper pipe for the rear. Very easy, lots less weight and much improved brake feel.

[cjk]

Hows your tire pressure. I havent had a lot of abs faults, 10 or so in 6 years and then this spring I was getting 1 a week. Checked tires, back is at 25psi so I air it up to 40. I figured the low pressure was from the air temp changes. Couple days later abs fault again. WTF. Rear tire is low again and has a little piece of wire in it. Since fixing the tire no more faults.

 

It seems the abs system can also detect low tire pressure.