R1100r clutch drag

[longbecs]

I have just replaced clutch plate and spring diaphram, put the bike back together having done everything by the book, torque settings spline greasing etc. With the clutch at the correct adjustment, 12mm at the adjusting nut and 7mm freeplay at the handlever I am getting clutch drag. If the bike is on the stand, back wheel off the deck, and it is in gear with the clutch pulled in the rear wheel turns. Not so much that you can't stop it with the brake but release the brake and the wheel starts turning again. The 10mm clutch adjusting nut is almost in as far as it will go! Everything at the clutch end is assembled correctly. I know because I took it to bits again to check! I have not altered anything to do with the clutch lever and rod etc other than the reccommended adjustments. Anybody else had this sort of experience or got clues to what might be amiss?

[T__]

I have just replaced clutch plate and spring diaphram, put the bike back together having done everything by the book, torque settings spline greasing etc. With the clutch at the correct adjustment, 12mm at the adjusting nut and 7mm freeplay at the handlever I am getting clutch drag. If the bike is on the stand, back wheel off the deck, and it is in gear with the clutch pulled in the rear wheel turns. Not so much that you can't stop it with the brake but release the brake and the wheel starts turning again. The 10mm clutch adjusting nut is almost in as far as it will go! Everything at the clutch end is assembled correctly. I know because I took it to bits again to check! I have not altered anything to do with the clutch lever and rod etc other than the reccommended adjustments. Anybody else had this sort of experience or got clues to what might be amiss?

 

longbecs, a slight drag on a newly installed clutch system is not that abnormal if you can stop it easily with your foot or the rear brake).. I have installed hundreds of clutches in my lifetime on anything from motorcycles, to automobiles, to tractors, to large trucks & have had a number of them drag slightly until burnished in.. There is no spring or mechanical means to keep that clutch disk centered between the flywheel & pressure plate upon release so if it ends up staying biased to the flywheel side (due to grease on the input shaft, tight fitting splines, mismatch of spline angles, fluffy clutch disk, etc) it can drag slightly until the clutch plate wears in a little..

 

I don’t know if the bike is in a rideable condition but if so put a few miles on it & see if the clutch burnishes in enough to allow a clean drag free release..

 

Twisty

[smiller]

The rear wheel will spin when completely unloaded and the transmission in neutral on my 1100RT, or at least it has for the past 80k miles. Same with every other oilhead I've ever worked on. As long as there isn't much driving force (i.e. you can stop the wheel with a light touch of the brake or even by hand using a rag to press against the tire) then I would consider it completely normal.

[T__]

The rear wheel will spin when completely unloaded and the transmission in neutral on my 1100RT, or at least it has for the past 80k miles. Same with every other oilhead I've ever worked on. As long as there isn't much driving force (i.e. you can stop the wheel with a light touch of the brake or even by hand using a rag to press against the tire) then I would consider it completely normal.

 

 

Seth, I think you misread his query.. He is talking about the clutch pulled in (disengaged) trans in gear.. Not clutch engaged with trans in neutral..

 

Twisty

[smiller]

Ooops, quite correct, I didn't read it carefully enough. Thanks for catching that.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Um, pretty much what Twisty said.

Not at all unusual for a bit of drag with a new clutch plate in there for all the reasons mentioned.

I have not done an oilhead clutch adjustment in a while but just took a look on the Max BMW at the assembly. Should be pretty straightforward to get a little more release in there.

 

Last time I did one, I wasn't having very much luck following all that clearance measurement stuff so I went my own way. Removed the clutch cable altogether at the bar and then adjusted the bolt on the bottom so that the lever looked to be at the correct angle when all the play in the release mechanism was removed. Then I replaced the cable at the bar and adjusted till I got the engagement point about where I wanted it. A double check to insure there was a little free play at the bottom lever and all was good.

[longbecs]

Thanks all you guys. I'll run it in for a while and see if it improves.