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Brake bleeding procedure for R1100RT?


news_by_KKO

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news_by_KKO

I did a brake flush by bleeding my brakes trough the front and rear calipers only. Am I supposed to also bleed trough the ABS module’s bleeders?

 

 

Also even before the flush my front brake (sometimes) feels like they have air in them. Occasionally when I pull the lever it travels a little further than usual and feels a little softer. If I pull the lever again it becomes firm again? This only happens occasionally. Is my master cyl failing?

 

Oh yeah, the bike is a 98 R1100RT with 82,000 miles.

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With the age of the bike and the amount of miles on the bike, the feeling you describe could also be the brake lines. If you bleed the brakes and occasionally have the soft lever feel, new lines can help. I had the same feelings in mine, although I had a leak. New stainless lines gave it a firm linear feeling.

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Strictly speaking bleeding the points on the ABS unit on the 1100 series is not needed. They're mostly there for vacating a new unit. But doing so certainly won't hurt.

 

What you are describing sounds indeed like a front master cylinder issue (there is a rebuild kit available). But as mentioned old soft lines could also be a possibility.

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This thread lets me ask a question I have about bleeding the brakes on my '00 R1100RT. Specifically, the brake calipers on the left side of the bike (facing forward) has a regular bleed screw just like you'd find on any other metric motorcycle. However, on the right side there's an attachment where a normal bleed screw would be found that looks like some sort of other bleeder. It's a tube, about 1/2 inch long that's threaded or otherwise attached to the caliper. It's closed off by an allen-headed screw, and when I look down the end I can see what I think is some sort of ball-bearing check valve. This is not mentioned in the shop manual I have for the bike. I've never seen anything like this before and would prefer to have a regular bleed valve on that side. Can I replace this? Does it just unscrew from the caliper or do I have to disassemble the caliper to remove this?

 

I do love my RT, but sometimes it's just different enough to make me throw my hands up in the air. I think the two Kawasaki's that share the garage with it must laugh at me every time I try to work on the beemer.

 

dopeslap.gif

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Mark_Turner

I found this same setup on my 99 R1100RT, had it over at a local Non BMW mechanic to have to brake bleed done too and ran into this situation. Fortunately he had another nipple he took off a caliper he had in stock in order to hook it up to the vacuum. Still don't understand this setup on the right caliper.

 

Mark

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Just unscrew it and replace with a convntional bleeder or better yet put in a couple of speed bleeders. Order them online and they'll get them to you in a couple of days via first class mai. speed bleeders

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I found this same setup on my 99 R1100RT, had it over at a local Non BMW mechanic to have to brake bleed done too and ran into this situation. Fortunately he had another nipple he took off a caliper he had in stock in order to hook it up to the vacuum. Still don't understand this setup on the right caliper.

 

 

Mark

 

It is a special connector to fill the system at the factory. The manual tells you to unscrew the plug and fit a bleed nipple to bleed the brakes, then re-fit the plug. That last step seems pointless to me - I suggest pulling the adaptor and fitting a bleed nipple straight to the caliper - don't forget a dustcap.

 

BTW, for the later brakes at least - I am not sure about those on the 1100 - BMW state to NOT use a vacum bleed system as this can dislodge internal o-rings in the very expensive non-repairable ABS unit.

 

 

Andy

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Thanks, guys.

 

I tried unscrewing the adapter, but it really didn't want to turn and with the clearances being so tight at the caliper I decided to back off and wait until I could drain the system and take the caliper off. That way I could stick it (gently) in a vise to remove the adapter. I'll do a replacement with a set of speed bleeders when I make the change.

 

Thanks again.

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Thanks, guys.

 

I tried unscrewing the adapter, but it really didn't want to turn and with the clearances being so tight at the caliper I decided to back off and wait until I could drain the system and take the caliper off. That way I could stick it (gently) in a vise to remove the adapter. I'll do a replacement with a set of speed bleeders when I make the change.

 

Thanks again.

 

There is loctite in there - use plenty of heat before unscrewing.

 

Andy

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