EMERGENCY

[Paul_Burkett]

Today I was installing Speed Bleeders onto the '02RT ABS Control Module and either started the threads at an angle or over tightened the bleeder. The result is a portion of the (aluminum?) broke off.

 

 

How can I repare this and still use the bleeder?

[swilson]

Its hard to tell for sure from the photo, but it appears there are not enough usable threads left to screw the bleeder back in, is that right? If so, looks like you're in the market for a new ABS modulator. The dealers only wants $1900 for them new.

 

If you were going to attempt to fix it, you'd need to have the broken piece TIG welded back on, and then re-tap the threads. Then if any shavings from retaping the theads get into the lines all the effort was for nothing.

 

TIG welding it may not be possible either... the metal would need to be clean before welding on it and you'd never be able to get all the brake fluid out of that unit.

 

A used unit with a guarentee that it is working condition will run $400-800. I got one on Ebay w/no guarentee for less than that and got lucky it worked.

 

Sorry for the bad news.

[Lineareagle]

Bummer, I don't know what pressure the bleeder sees in operation.

Because you are installing speed bleeders once the bleeder is in place you do not have to remove it, so . . . I would be thinking of cleaning the area really well and using an industrial epoxy to build up the area and install the bleeder all in one.

There are several high strength aluminum based epoxies now that MIGHT do the job.

Of course it is your brakes so . . .

 

Good Luck, sorry it was bad before, it happens.

[Stan Walker]

Because you are installing speed bleeders once the bleeder is in place you do not have to remove it,

 

But you do have to turn it to open it. So you can't bleed by the book!!!

 

So lets say you plug this one hole and never bleed that portion of the servo. No data exists as to how long it will last if you only bleed 5 places instead of 6 every 2 years. Maybe forever!!!

 

There is little point in spending big bucks today if you can put it off until a tomorrow that may never come.

 

Stan

[Paul_Burkett]

Upon further inspection, I found that I have about 3 good threads in the base of the port and the old bleeder will fit snugly into the hole. I also talked to my brother who is a welding instructor, he said that there is a mil spec aluminum solder that may be able to used to repair the broken area.

[Eckhard Grohe]

Could you ask your brother what brand name of that solder is and let us know.?

 

Thanks

[ShovelStrokeEd]

OK, Paul,

So long as you still have some thread engagement you can probably effect a good repair using one of the aluminum/epoxy compounds.

 

First on the agenda is to get things super clean. I would recommend some spray cleaners for this, used in a well ventilated area as the stuff I am talking about is dangerous/flammable and toxic as well. Spray first with a good brake cleaner product, once this air dries, follow with some starter fluid and then wait till it dries. The drying step is important. Mixing liquid trichloroethane (brake cleaner) and diethyl ether (starter fluid) will produce hydrochloric acid which you don't want around aluminum.

 

Now that things are really clean, and the dizziness has passed, get an artists paint brush and something to use as a mold release compound. Melted candle wax will do or even a little motor oil. Trick is to get the stuff only on the exposed threads of the speed bleeder and nowhere else.

 

Now slather you choice of Miracle Weld compound into the area, a Popsicle stick will allow you to smooth the outside and the liberation thereof will give the toxic stuff time to dry.

 

Stand back and let the stuff dry overnight and you should be good to go.

[Paul_Burkett]

Ed, is there a recomended product to go with, such as JB Weld, or another brand. Is this found at an automotive supply or xmart.

 

This place ROCKS!

[Paul_Burkett]

My brother sent me this link to the site on soldering aluminum. There is a video on the top right, I don't know, it looks good. Is there any other minerals such as magnesium in the module or is it totally aluminum?

 

http://durafix.com/

[Lineareagle]

My brother sent me this link to the site on soldering aluminum. There is a video on the top right, I don't know, it looks good. Is there any other minerals such as magnesium in the module or is it totally aluminum?

 

 

Now that is the question that the welder will find out REAL fast when he sets to welding and it might be a 1900.00 answer for you too.

I'd go with the epoxy metal, I am not a huge fan of JB Weld I prefer

Devcon

[ShovelStrokeEd]

I would stay away from anything involving heat. There are all sorts of seals and sliding components inside that housing and we all know that aluminum conducts heat quite well.

 

Sorry on the epoxy stuff, I don't have specific knowledge about any of the products out there. Chances are the housing is some form of pressure die casting. Heat should not be an issue and you are really just looking for some additional mechanical support/sealing surface for the threads. I have seen aluminum cylinder blocks perforated by both broken chains and broken connecting rods, repaired with JB Weld on drag race applications and they neither leaked nor cracked again.

[Jim VonBaden]

There was a tech bulitin, according to my dealer, that said you only need to bleed to two main bleeders because the amount of unbled fluid from the remaining 4 is negligable. It cuts service time for the brake bleed considerably.

 

I follow this procedure, and am confident that it will be fine. I can't imagine more than a teaspoon of old fluid is left in the unit by skipping them.

 

I also never use Speedbleeders because I have seen 2 break off. They seem a little weak to me, and unnecessarry anyhow.

 

Just my opinion. Do with it as you wish.

 

Jim

 

PS Does anyone have this service bulitin? If not, I will see if I can get it from my dealer.

[Paul_Burkett]

I haven't seen the bullitin, but I measured the diameter of the speed bleeders and found that they are a little larger than the OEM bleeders making for a tighter fit. They are also longer and fewer threads will fit down into the thread body.

 

[Ken H.]

On the dubious value of speed bleeders, Jim and myself can agree. After innumerable various problems with them, I have added them to my cursed products list. IMHO they cause more problems than they solve.

 

Sorry, not much consolation for you Paul at this point.

[Paul_Burkett]

Well, the J-B Weld is curing, the speed bleeders are mounted on the calipers and the SB's for the module are on there way to the classified section. I want to thank you all for the help and assurances that this adventure into the DIY zone may be fraught with peril, but with good guidance, it can be done.

[Flyer5]

Not sure if this is the same unit ,but saw it and figured I would share .Good luck ,Dave http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-R1100...1QQcmdZViewItem

[Tank]

Dang Paul, sometimes we get real lucky....

 

Because I have bled the brakes by myself i also have the SB's on the calapers, but decided to not put them on the module, I have found that it is just as easy to bleed the standard way.

Thanks Jim on the heads up for the service bulliten

[Paul_Burkett]

That looks like the same system but for a 2000 1100 RT, mine tho is an 1150 and is 60% larger. Thank you for looking it up for me, that is what makes this site what it is, people helping each other without any other motives than to lend a hand.

[Paul_Burkett]

It looks like the damage has been repaired. I let the J-B Weld cure for 24 hours and then did the brake and control system bleed. So far it looks good and there are no leaks and I am feeling good about the outcome. Again, thanks for the help.

[Bonkorama]

Paul, how about one more close-up pic of your final work on that. I'd like to see how the JB Weld part came out.

btw: glad it worked!

[Paul_Burkett]

It isn't pretty, but it is strong and works.

[ESokoloff]

And it was about $1,895 cheeper