txvstrom Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Just registered and I wanted to say thank you for the info provided here. As you see by my username I am not a BMW owner. I just ride an RT-P at work. My 2004 RT-P has less than 18K on it and I have replaced the QDs 3 times already --- and BMW says there isn't a problem. I finally found a solution after using the search function here and by visiting my local boat/marine store. SeaChoice (www.seachoice.com) makes a QD that is labelled for a Chrysler, part #s 20691 & 20701 that will work. You will have to purchase a brass screw on barb connector for the male part, but after all was said and done I had less than $21 invested. The parts are chrome plated brass and appear to be of good quality. Best of all ---- made in the good ol' USA. Link to comment
MattP Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 ... have replaced the QDs 3 times already As a happy 1150RT owner and frequent visitor to this forum, I have to ask.... WHAT "QD" [quick disconnect] are you referring to? And if it's a work bike (presumably service paid for by your department), what does it matter? Sorry if I sound like an @$$, but I don't understand your post. Link to comment
Bob Palin Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 It's the fuel line QD, the stock ones are pathetic. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 WHAT "QD" [quick disconnect] are you referring to? The fuel lines from and to the fuel tank have quick disconnect couplers in them to facilitate easy tank removal without draining it. Until they break. Link to comment
DavidEBSmith Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Until they break. Well, then they're disconnected, aren't they? They're not called quick connects. Link to comment
kioolt Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 I just replaced both male halves on my 04 RT. The bike has 60k on it and this is the only time I have had a leak. Oddly both went at the same time. I have always tried to be careful when fooling with them. I bought my replacement parts from McMaster Carr for about $6 a piece. They were identical to the OEM one except for the color. Link to comment
Carnadero Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 They were identical to the OEM one except for the color. Look at the metal push tab on both - if you see "CPC", they're made by the same outfit. Link to comment
Nevets Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 There was another post recently about this subject... Link to comment
txvstrom Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 As a happy 1150RT owner and frequent visitor to this forum, I have to ask.... WHAT "QD" [quick disconnect] are you referring to? And if it's a work bike (presumably service paid for by your department), what does it matter? Sorry if I sound like an @$$, but I don't understand your post. As the others have posted, I was referring to the fuel line quick disconnects. I have had some bad luck with them to say the least. As to why it matters: Yes, my dept pays for the service/parts/gas/etc. But, in the end the taxpayer pays for it. It would be irresponsible for me to put my bike down, have it transported about 100 miles by 2 of my motor guys (+ I lose them for the day), serviced at $50-$65 per hr shop rate + parts when I can do it myself in my garage for $21 and about 1 hr of my workday. Add it up and I saved the taxpayers quite a chunk of change. Luckily my bosses know I am pretty mechanically adept and allow me to do this. Link to comment
bmwmick Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I finally found a solution after using the search function here and by visiting my local boat/marine store. SeaChoice (www.seachoice.com) makes a QD that is labelled for a Chrysler, part #s 20691 & 20701 that will work. You will have to purchase a brass screw on barb connector for the male part, but after all was said and done I had less than $21 invested. The parts are chrome plated brass and appear to be of good quality. Best of all ---- made in the good ol' USA. Make VERY sure those connectors are rated for 50psi or more. If they are fuel TANK connectors for a boat, they are probably not pressure rated. I know......they may work but may be prone to leaks in the future. I'd hate to see a flaming Motor Officer in Bryan. Mick Link to comment
mefly2 Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 As a happy 1150RT owner and frequent visitor to this forum, I have to ask.... WHAT "QD" [quick disconnect] are you referring to? And if it's a work bike (presumably service paid for by your department), what does it matter? Sorry if I sound like an @$$, but I don't understand your post. As the others have posted, I was referring to the fuel line quick disconnects. I have had some bad luck with them to say the least. As to why it matters: Yes, my dept pays for the service/parts/gas/etc. But, in the end the taxpayer pays for it. It would be irresponsible for me to put my bike down, have it transported about 100 miles by 2 of my motor guys (+ I lose them for the day), serviced at $50-$65 per hr shop rate + parts when I can do it myself in my garage for $21 and about 1 hr of my workday. Add it up and I saved the taxpayers quite a chunk of change. Luckily my bosses know I am pretty mechanically adept and allow me to do this. Thank you for your attempt to help us out with your parts experience and I apologize for the rude / challenging tone by some. Ride safe and watch your six. Link to comment
MattP Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 ...and I apologize for the rude / challenging tone by some. Thanks for apologizing for me! Because I didn't understand his post? "Challenging tone?" You have got to be kidding. I guess every time there's a post I don't understand I'll skip it and move on to something else... More to the point- TXVSTROM, thanks for the clarification. I admire your willingness to work on a department vehicle, the reason I asked was that agencies I have worked for in the past were rather particular (understatement) about us working on our fleet vehicles, much less making mods to them. But if they're cool with that and it saves you a trip to the dealership, more power to you. Link to comment
MotoMoose Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Here is a post I made to the sticky parts list, these are the best you can find and now are tried and true!!!!!!! Hey everybody, I've been gone for a while. I was doing some work on my bike that I had been saving for a free weekend. I repaired my starter, installed the new LH cam tensioner parts, found and fixed some wires that the fuel tank was rubbing on, and replaced my fuel filter. I was going back together and had one of the CHEAP fuel line quick couplers break. What a pain had fuel running freely, got my gas can and thankfully captured all but maybe a quart. Since I was mad at such a cheap part being on my bike I vowed to find an alternate part source. I started researching on the internet and this is what I came up with. I found the JIFFY-TITE CO. www.jiffytite.com . They make an aluminum quick coupler that is beautiful and works great. You'll find this coupler on there web site under their Motorsports page, look for products available and select the series 2000 couplers. The part numbers are 21506 for the Socket(female) w/-6 hose barb, and 22506 for the Plug (male) w/-6 hose barb. You will need 2 of each for a complete retrofit. The -6 hose barb is the correct size for the stock fuel hose. These barbs have an extra high first barb that I don't feel is necessary and not helpfull for installation, so I ground mine down with my bench grinder (Of course I made sure that none of the grindings stayed on the coupler). You can't buy these couplers from Jiffy-tite directly, but they were great in helping me find what I needed. I ordered mine from RACER PARTS WHOLESALE 1-800-397-7815 and ask for Mike, he was great and got things done right. For those in different markets that might make things quicker, here is a list of supliers: Henry's Engineering Henry's Engineering Co., Inc. PO Box 209 Barstow, MD 20610 Phone: (410)535-3142 Fax: (410)535-1378 C & R Racing C&R Racing, Inc. 6950 Guion Rd. Indianapolis, IN 46268 Phone: 317-293-4100 Fax: 317-293-4110 Hoerr Racing Products Hoerr Racing Products 4802 Competition Lane Peoria, IL 61615 Phone: (866)851-7223 Fax: (309)691-8796 Hughes Performance Hughes Performance 2244 W. McDowell Road Phoenix, AZ 85009 Phone: Toll Free (800)274-RACE Fax: 602-340-8429 North American Race Parts North American Race Parts 312 Gasoline Alley Indianapolis, IN 46222 Phone: (317)244-9694 Fax: (317)243-8905 Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies, Inc. 2475 S. 179th St. New Berlin, WI 53146 Phone: (800)688-6946 Fax: (262)317-1201 PMZ PMZ Group 4125 Waterlick Rd. Forest, VA 24551 Phone: (434)525-8263 Fax: (434)525-8291 Racer Parts Wholesale Racer Parts Wholesale 411 Dorman Indianapolis, IN 46202 Phone: (800)397-7815 Fax: (317)639-0722 Karbelt Speed & Custom Karbelt Speed & Custom 8 Chisolm Court Ajax, Ontario Canada L1S 4N8 Phone: (905)619-6660 Fax: (905)619-6659 CV Products, Inc. CV Products, Inc. 42 High Tech Blvd. Thomasville, NC 27360 Phone: (800)448-1223 Fax: (336)472-2204 Motorsport Connections Unit 15, 4A Foundry Road Seven Hills, Sydney Australia 2147 Phone: 011-61-2-9838-7272 Fax: 011-61-2-9838-7271 Competition Products Competition Products 280 West 35th Avenue, Unit 1 Oshkosh, WI 54902 Phone: (866)435-9405 Fax: (920)233-1355 Motorsports of KS City, Inc 6285 State Avenue KS City, KS 66102 Phone:(913)334-0477 Fax:(913)788-7549 Engine Parts Warehouse Engine Parts Warehouse 7301 Global Drive Louisville, KY 40258 Phone:(502)937-7258 Fax:(502)937-7816 Jerry Bickell Race Cars Inc. Jerry Bickell Race Cars Inc. 141 Raceway Park Drive Moscow Mills, MO 63362 Phone:(636) 356-4727 Fax:(636) 356-4667 Murray’s Speed & Custom Murray’s Speed & Custom 15781 NW 7th Avenue North Miami, FL 33169 Phone: (888)687-7297 Fax:(305)769-1228 Barry Wright Race Cars 403 Battleground Road Cowpens, SC 29330 Phone: 864-463-4911 Fax: 864-463-8335 Jan-Cen Motorsports Jan-Cen Motorsports 3161 Transit Rd. Elma, NY 14059 Phone:(716)668-2096 Fax:(716)668-0970 Kriners Engines, Inc. 512 Elm Ave. Chambersburg, PA 17201 Phone:(717) 263-8051 Fax:(717) 263-6070 Weaver's Automotive Rte. 29 North Madison, VA 22727 Phone:(540)948-6762 Fax:(540)948-3252 Summit Racing Summit Racing 1200 Southeast Avenue Tallmadge, OH 44278 Phone:(800)230-3030 Fax:(330)630-5333 NBM Hydraulic AB NBM Hydraulic AB Karlbergsstrand 2 171 73 Solna Sweden Phone: +46-8-271673 Fax: +46-8-836305 Think Automotive Ltd. Think Automotive Ltd. 292 Worton Rd, Isleworth Middlesex, TW7 6El England Phone: +44 020 8568 1172 Fax: +44 020 8437 5338 BTE Racing BTE Racing #2 Memphis Avenue Mt. Pleasant, MS 38649 Phone:(800)626-1828 Fax:(662)851-3281 Nickels Performance Nickels Performance 293 Industrial Park Road Piney Flats, TN 37686 Phone:(800)251-0331 Fax:(423)391-0208 Quick Fuel Technology Quick Fuel Technology 2352 Russellville Road Bowling Green, KY 42101 Phone:(270)793-0900 Fax:(270)793-0951 Team C Performance Team C Performance 16706 Lakewood Blvd. Bellflower, CA 90706 Phone:(562)866-3887 Fax:(562)866-1907 -------------------- Ed Lindner R1150RT-P Mostly just RT! Completely Hooked! Link to comment
bmwmick Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Ed, Thanks for the links. I believe you should have used the 21505/22505 connectors because our fuel lines are 8mm or 5/16" at least that is what the R1100's use. The 21506/22506 are 3/8" hose barbs so that would explain why they were tough to install. Here is their link: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/jiftite1.htm Mick Link to comment
ncsonderman Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 +1 for the Jiffy-Tite connectors. I ordered mine from CV Products in Thomasville and had them in less than 24 hours. I went with the AN-5 for mine and they fit perfect. Just a suggestion from someone who just installed them. When disconnecting or taking off the old QD, use a pair of vice grips with a deep socket on each tooth to clamp the fuel line and save yourself a mess Link to comment
Theophilus Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 ...and I apologize for the rude / challenging tone by some. Thanks for apologizing for me! Because I didn't understand his post? "Challenging tone?" You have got to be kidding. I guess every time there's a post I don't understand I'll skip it and move on to something else... What makes you think he was talking about you? Link to comment
doc47 Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 As a happy 1150RT owner and frequent visitor to this forum, I have to ask.... WHAT "QD" [quick disconnect] are you referring to? And if it's a work bike (presumably service paid for by your department), what does it matter? Sorry if I sound like an @$$, but I don't understand your post. As the others have posted, I was referring to the fuel line quick disconnects. I have had some bad luck with them to say the least. As to why it matters: Yes, my dept pays for the service/parts/gas/etc. But, in the end the taxpayer pays for it. It would be irresponsible for me to put my bike down, have it transported about 100 miles by 2 of my motor guys (+ I lose them for the day), serviced at $50-$65 per hr shop rate + parts when I can do it myself in my garage for $21 and about 1 hr of my workday. Add it up and I saved the taxpayers quite a chunk of change. Luckily my bosses know I am pretty mechanically adept and allow me to do this. ______________________________________________________ Bless you! No joke! Link to comment
MotoMoose Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Ed, Thanks for the links. I believe you should have used the 21505/22505 connectors because our fuel lines are 8mm or 5/16" at least that is what the R1100's use. The 21506/22506 are 3/8" hose barbs so that would explain why they were tough to install. Here is their link: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/jiftite1.htm Mick I actually never saw the -5's, I tried -4's and of course they were wrong and I had to send them back. I actually replaced my fuel line at the same time and used I believe 3/8" hose, but I'm not sure, I just matched it up at Auto Zone and it worked fine after I got rid of the ridge on the barb. Link to comment
hyperion Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 www.angelcitycycle.com They advertise in BMW MOA magazine and they sell the Jiffy Tite connectors and they know all the correct sizes/part numbers for your bike. Link to comment
boatzo Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 "quote" "As the others have posted, I was referring to the fuel line quick disconnects. I have had some bad luck with them to say the least. As to why it matters: Yes, my dept pays for the service/parts/gas/etc. But, in the end the taxpayer pays for it. It would be irresponsible for me to put my bike down, have it transported about 100 miles by 2 of my motor guys (+ I lose them for the day), serviced at $50-$65 per hr shop rate + parts when I can do it myself in my garage for $21 and about 1 hr of my workday. Add it up and I saved the taxpayers quite a chunk of change. Luckily my bosses know I am pretty mechanically adept and allow me to do this." Good for you. Keep up the good work. I am sure you feel more comfortable knowing what you have done to your bike instead of worring about what somebody else may have or have not done.Keep up the good work. Link to comment
mikeR1100R Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 I just got my Jiffy-tite quick-connects today. I have a 98 R1100R, so my bike did not come with quick-connects at all. The Jiffy-tite parts seem to be of excellent quality upon visual inspection. My question is perhaps a foolish one, but do I need to install clamps on the fuel lines where they fit over the barbs on the quick-connects? I am sure that the RT's don't have clamps on the OEM quick-connects as they are pathetic-looking plastic parts and a clamp would probably crush them. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike Link to comment
bmwmick Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I just got my Jiffy-tite quick-connects today. I have a 98 R1100R, so my bike did not come with quick-connects at all. The Jiffy-tite parts seem to be of excellent quality upon visual inspection. My question is perhaps a foolish one, but do I need to install clamps on the fuel lines where they fit over the barbs on the quick-connects? I am sure that the RT's don't have clamps on the OEM quick-connects as they are pathetic-looking plastic parts and a clamp would probably crush them. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike YES, You need 4 clamps, fuel injection rated would be best as they surround the hose without tearing it. ASs the factory QD applications have clamps. Mick Link to comment
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