bubblehead Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 I have about 38K on my 1150RT so I ordered the belt to replace when I do the service this weekend. I noticed that the book calls for a special tool, but I can't get a clear look at it to see what it is. How can you tension the belt with out the tool? I have a torque wrench, so that isn't a big deal, but .... ??? Thanks in Advance! Link to comment
bubblehead Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 OK, I found an article on the oilheads site that should work.... It suggests using a long screwdriver to pry, but the torque is 5-6 ft lbs, so not too much. I'l give it a try... Link to comment
Boffin Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 OK, I found an article on the oilheads site that should work.... It suggests using a long screwdriver to pry, but the torque is 5-6 ft lbs, so not too much. I'l give it a try... The belt needs to be tightened so you can just twist it through 90 degrees at the centre of the longest run. Andy Link to comment
bubblehead Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 Yeah, that's what I found in the article. Thanks Andy! Link to comment
Jim VonBaden Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Just be VERY careful that as you are prying up with the screwdriver you are not putting pressure on the Hall Sensor wiring that runs up there. That would be very bad! Jim PS I never use the special tool. It is too fussy for me. Link to comment
bubblehead Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 Good data Jim, thanks! Link to comment
jfremder Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Two nuts locked together on the adjustment stud, and you can use your torque wrench. Link to comment
REVz Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Two nuts locked together on the adjustment stud, and you can use your torque wrench. Would that be an M8 x 30 ? Link to comment
Sierra Smokey Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Two nuts locked together on the adjustment stud, and you can use your torque wrench. That's the way I do it! But no torque wrench... I do the 90 degree twist and shout. Link to comment
REVz Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Two nuts locked together on the adjustment stud, and you can use your torque wrench. Would that be an M8 x 30 ? Let me rephrase my question... Are the two nuts you're suggesting, a metric size M8 x 30? Thanks, I love cheap and easy solutions... Link to comment
DougD Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Here's a short video on changing and adjusting the belt. https://www.bmwmc.net/uploads/tm11/P...nce_medium.wmv Ordered the tool from A&S. Link to comment
bubblehead Posted April 12, 2007 Author Share Posted April 12, 2007 dang... it tells me the page can't be found..... when I get through, it tells me I'm not authorized to view the page... oh well Link to comment
Redbrick Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Is it necessary to go back in after 600 miles and check tension as when the bike was new? Phil..........Redbrick Link to comment
DougD Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 dang... it tells me the page can't be found..... when I get through, it tells me I'm not authorized to view the page... oh well Interesting.....I'm not authorized and I can get in. It's a 03:40 min long video,13.4MB in size. Link to comment
glwestcott Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I just replaced mine a week ago. Using a screwdriver with a large end, you can slip it under the alternator and just twist to tension the belt. No trouble with any wiring under there. You then grasp the belt and twist it. When you can twist it no more than 90 degrees, tighten one of the bolts that holds the alternator and then tighten the rest. Easy and takes only a few minutes. If you can turn the belt 90 degrees but no more, your belt won't be over tensioned or under tensioned. No need for anything fancier. Link to comment
Jim VonBaden Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I just replaced mine a week ago. Using a screwdriver with a large end, you can slip it under the alternator and just twist to tension the belt. No trouble with any wiring under there. You then grasp the belt and twist it. When you can twist it no more than 90 degrees, tighten one of the bolts that holds the alternator and then tighten the rest. Easy and takes only a few minutes. If you can turn the belt 90 degrees but no more, your belt won't be over tensioned or under tensioned. No need for anything fancier. Don't be fooled, there IS wiring for the Hall Effect Sensor under there. Jim Link to comment
AndyS Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Is it necessary to go back in after 600 miles and check tension as when the bike was new? Apparently not on later belts. You would be able to tell if the belt was too loose due to the battery light staying on above idle, Also when the system was being loaded (lots of lights,ABS etc - you would hear screaming from the belt sliding over the alternator pulley. Andy Andy Link to comment
charlie b Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Hi guys, A very useful posting that is easily accessible and gives a step by step guide to belt replacement with pics, is this thread as posted by the esteemed member Steptoe on our UKGSer site. http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81897 HTH Charlie Link to comment
Jerry Johnston Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Shouldn't be an s after http, just put in www.bmwmc.net When you get the site go to training, video serv. procedure. Link to comment
bubblehead Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 AAAHHHHHH, worked that way, thanks a bunch!!!! Mine seems to be working fine, the belt showed almost no wear, so I'll keep it on the bike as a spare just in case.... 8-) Link to comment
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