External Fuel Filter Modification

[dj_nj]

ibmwr.org External Fuel Filter directions

I'm in the process of making the External Fuel Filter Modification to my r1100rt and find that side panel plastic will not go on if I locate the the filter where the article directs. (see photo from article)

What am I doing wrong?

Is there another location or smaller filter??

Thanks,

dave

[John Dickens]

I had exactly the same problem so I mounted it alongside the remote shock adjuster and rear brake master cylinder behind the offside removeable panel.

The original article by Rob Lentini was on an S or RS which doesn't have the full enclosure.

[BUSTED]

Pic attached. I've been mounting the filter above the right side injector since 1996 with no problems.

[dj_nj]

Thanks for the replies,

The picture is from the second article which is about installing a filter on a r1150RT.(it's titled: External Fuel Filter Modification for R1150RT)

You can see the screw grommet on the foot rest at the bottom of the pic.

I'd would really Like to place the filter in the original area. Did anyone find a way to do this??

I'm thinking that the author is using a smaller fuel filter??

[DavidEBSmith]

Yah, the original article says he uses a Purolator F20011, which is often listed as a replacement for the BMW filter. It definitely looks smaller in the picture. However, I found some other sites that say that the F20011 has been changed from metal to plastic, and I don't think I'd want a plastic filter in my fuel injection system.

 

On edit: I finally found the Purolator filters website (www.pureoil.com) and it lists the size of the F20011 as O.D.: 2.13 Height: 3.68. Maybe somebody can measure a BMW filter, I don't have one around right now.

[dj_nj]

Thanks David,

The more I looked at the problem, the more I was sure the filter must be smaller.

Now I'm shopping for a smaller "metal"filter. Any suggestions out there?

After ripping this bike down to its bones and building it back up to the last side panel, I hope I don't have to take the darn fuel tank off again to reinstall the filter inside the tank!!

[dj_nj]

On edit: I finally found the Purolator filters website (www.pureoil.com) and it lists the size of the F20011 as O.D.: 2.13 Height: 3.68. Maybe somebody can measure a BMW filter, I don't have one around right now.

The bmw filter is 2" OD X 2 1/4" long.

[dj_nj]

 

"The bmw filter is 2" OD X 2 1/4" long."

 

Correction: 2" OD X 3 5/8" Over all, inc the hose barbs.

its basicly the same filter, I don't see how they make it work?

[Eckhard Grohe]

As far as I know this is how it is done. I will be doing it next month.

 

There is a locating pin on the preload adjuster that keys to the bracket it is screwed to. You file off the pin and that allows you to rotate the adjuster and install the filter. You may have to loosen the banjo bolt to turn to get the hose right. Be sure that your wheel is unloaded and the preload is off before loosening the bolt.

 

Check this out!

[dj_nj]

Eckhard,

Your saying that you must place the filter back by the pre-load adj?

 

that link is dead?

[Green RT]

I did the modification and have the filter installed behind the triangular side cover, using a BMW oil filter. I had trouble with the cover going on at first but found a place to put it where the cover still fits. I could take a picture after dinner if it was useful to anyone.

[dj_nj]

I would like to take a look. Thanks

 

but I really don't want to go that route.

I'll bet there is someone that has made this mod as shown in the article directions.

[Green RT]

I would like to take a look.

 

 

Out of sight behind the filter is another cable tie going around the frame member. The two cable ties interlock.

[Green RT]

One advantage of locating under the triangular cover is that you don't have to pull the tupperware to replace it. Not an issue for routine maintenance, but a little easier at night on the road.

[Charles Elms]

I might be nuts, but I thought that was a high pressure line and the hose clamp at the top of the filter does not look like a high pressure clamp to me (hard to get a real good look). Did I miss something? This is in reference to the picture of the filter mounted by the rear shock adjuster.

[Green RT]

I thought it was a high pressure clamp. I would appreciate someone confirming that it is or isn't. I don't remember now where I got it.

[Jim VonBaden]

I thought it was a high pressure clamp. I would appreciate someone confirming that it is or isn't. I don't remember now where I got it.

 

It doesn't look like one to me. Looks like a vacuum clamp.

 

I would use one of these:

 

 

Jim

[DavidEBSmith]

I put mine under the triangular cover, too, but I also have a Wilburs shock with a remote reservoir, and the line from the fuel cell, and it just doesn't all fit under the cover, without a little Dremel tool work on the cover. And of course the triangular cover fell off last week, so until I can find another used one to hack up, I got no cover.

[Eckhard Grohe]

You can place it where you like and of course where it will fit. This is one location where you can change it without getting into the tupperware.

 

I have the entire article on my PC with all the photos. PM me with your email address and I'll zip it all and send it to you this evening some time.

[Eckhard Grohe]

Your looking for fuel injection hose clamps for 5/16" ID hose or about 1/2" Outside Diameter(OD).

[dj_nj]

Echard,

I sent you a PM.

thanks

 

I still wonder how the article "External Fuel Filter Modification for R1150RT" has been posted so long with out a correction or if there is a trick I'm missing??

[Ken H.]

I no longer encourage the modification, but if you still want to do it, the factory filter will fit behind the cover if you rotate the rear shock preload adjuster rearward a bit:

 

[Agent_Orange]

Why do you no longer encourage this modification?

[strat]

Maybe I'm missing something here. is it really that big of a deal to replace the in tank fuel filter? (haven't done one yet) this vs the external mod. to replace the external filter you still have to pull the tupperware to change the filter. it seems the only extra you need for the internal swap is a new o ring gasket. pull the cap assembly/pull the tupperware....seems like a push to me.

 

Cheers

strat

[Ken H.]

Why do you no longer encourage this modification?

Well what I think it boils down to is that it’s a solution looking for a non-existent problem.

 

Think about all the millions of cages and 10s of 1000s of bikes on the road with their filter in the tank, that have gone millions of miles with no fuel filter relate issues. Sure there’s always the one antidotal story of the biker who had to change their fuel filter along the side of the road, in the middle of Kansas, in the winter, at night, but the odds are just pretty darn small.

 

Heck, in most of the new hexheads the filter in the tank is not separately replaceable at all. And in the couple models where it is not inside the tank, such as the R1200ST, it is because of tank shape considerations.

 

Add into the equation the additional failure points; clamps, joints, hoses, you are adding with the mod, and increased venerability in say a low side, and I think it all adds up to leave it where it is.

[dj_nj]

Last year during the minuteman 1000 rally I had one go bad. I was still able to crawl in and grab 3rd but I could have easily won 1st if the filter had not clog up.

I think a average rider need not be too concerned with changing out the tank unit per standard service intervals.

 

I went to a local auto parts store today and they call their filter supplier to find something that might work on the original location. I'll pick it up Saturday and see if its a go. I'll let you know.

[DavidEBSmith]

Think about all the millions of cages and 10s of 1000s of bikes on the road with their filter in the tank, that have gone millions of miles with no fuel filter relate issues. Sure there’s always the one antidotal story of the biker who had to change their fuel filter along the side of the road, in the middle of Kansas, in the winter, at night, but the odds are just pretty darn small.

 

It all depends. For the average touring rider, for whom a breakdown that takes a day to repair isn't that big a deal, you're probably right. Some people find themselves on a ride in which they may be getting gas with some frequency at out-of-the-way locations where the quality control on the fuel may not be the best. Or they may find themselves on a ride where the prospect of hours of downtime to remove a tank and replace an in-tank filter is unacceptable, even at the small probability of encountering a problem. Then moving the filter to the outside looks more like a practical decision.

 

The utility of moving the fuel filter externally depends on each particular riders needs. For most, doing it isn't particularly helpful, but for some, having the ability to reduce the time to repair a failure from several hours to a few minutes makes sense.

[strat]

Do you have to remove the tank to replace the in tank filter????

 

Strat

[Ken H.]

Do you have to remove the tank to replace the in tank filter

Yes.

[T__]

Do you have to remove the tank to replace the in tank filter????

 

Strat

 

Strat, yes the tank must be drained & removed..

 

Twisty

[Eckhard Grohe]

I have to say that the fact that you have to bend the fuel line so radically to get it to replace the filter and the hose bits makes me concerned that it will flatten and pinch off the fuel flow. But I am a paranoid sort of guy anyway.

[T__]

I have to say that the fact that you have to bend the fuel line so radically to get it to replace the filter and the hose bits makes me concerned that it will flatten and pinch off the fuel flow. But I am a paranoid sort of guy anyway.

 

Eckhard, you really don’t have to bend a hose to by-pass that internal filter.. All you need is length of fuel pipe the same length as the stock filter & silver solder a compression feral on each end to emulate the stock filter hose retaining barbs, then use the stock fuel filter hoses & stock clamping to complete the by-pass operation..

 

I do agree with you in that bending a straight hose to replace that filter is a good way to invite problems..

 

Twisty

[ShovelStrokeEd]

No need to bend a line either. The factory molded line on the top of the filter works just fine. I used to carry a little length of tubing done as described above with me, along with a couple of hose clamps. With a little patience and a whole lot of cussing, you can even persuade the original sealing ring back into its groove.

 

I know its around the shop someplace but, in 20+ years of riding injected BMWs, I have never had a fuel filter clog on me. Did have one fuel pump go Tango Uniform due to really dirty gas. Whatever it was, clogged the inlet screen and that caused the pump to run dry and burn itself up despite being submerged in gas. Happened to have a Walbrow pump kicking around for another EFI project and just bolted it in place (sans screen). Not a problem.

[OlGeezer]

I located mine on top of the air filter. Sure, I have to remove it to change the air filter, but the fuel lines worked out great doing it this way.

 

Click here for more info.

[dj_nj]

Hi Bill,

I was looking at that method as a back up if I can't get a smaller Filter to work in the same space the article directs.

I'm trying to keep my cubic inches of gas volume down to a minimum.

dave

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