Extract Remnants of Lower Rear Shock Bolt?

[OlGeezer]

On my return from my weekend jaunt, I sheared off the lower bolt on the rear shock. Don't ask me how. It failed in double shear which means the bolt ended up in three pieces. One piece fell out, the middle piece came out with the shock and the third piece is still in the threaded fitting in the swing arm.

 

I know there are thread extractors, but I believe I need to drill a pilot hole. If that's true, how do I get it aligned properly? There are things in the way. If that's not true, how could I extract the bolt?

 

Well, it was running for a little bit, anyway. Got nearly 2k on her between the maladies, and this time I wasn't stranded. Thats not too bad.

 

TIA,

 

Bill

[Ken H.]

Presume this is the threaded remnants on in right surface of the swing arm, yes?

 

The pilot hole for an extractor doesn't have to be that exact, just get close to the middle.

 

But that's a tough spot to get to from the left side, you'd have to be working from through the left side bolt hole, a distance away from right edge.

 

For an extractor to work from the right side, the threads on the remnant will have to be good enough for it to turn further in and all the way out. In effect passing through the swing arm then out the right side. Still, I think I'd try this approach first. Drill the hole into the end of the broke off bolt from the right. Then with an extractor, see if you can get it to turn counter-clockwise threading it further in, then out the end of the swing arm's threaded hole. If that doesn't work, you could then try to get to it from the left side through the bolt head's hole in the swing arm but it's a long reach. Or there are such thing as extractors for left hand threaded bolts too. But it's a specialized tool, Sears won't have. Snap-On maybe? One of those would allow you to work it from the right side, only turning clockwise.

 

I will say, you've come up with a unique one! Most people break the top shock mount in situations such as this.

[Bill Dennes]

I've broken that bolt, too.

 

Then, I pulled the swingarm out of the bike and broke the easy-out off in the drilled-out bolt.

 

Then, I bought a new swingarm from Chicago BMW.

 

Klaus at Wilbers tells me the broken bolt is from bottoming out the shock.

 

I think that it's worth noting that the lower shock mount bolt supplied by BMW comes with RED thread locker pre-applied. Isn't this the serious, heat-me-to-remove kind of sealer? I removed the red with acetone and applied blue LocTite to the bolt going into my new swingarm.

[Ken H.]

Oh, I might add, liberally heat the surrounding area of the swing arm before trying to torque on the extractor.

[Bill Dennes]

Oh, I might add, liberally heat the surrounding area of the swing arm before trying to torque on the extractor.

Yup.

[OlGeezer]

Klaus at Wilbers tells me the broken bolt is from bottoming out the shock.

I doubt that this has happened unless I lost fluid beforehand. I've got a 900# spring so that me, my wife and five days worth of gear (slightly over GVWR) can still go through the twisties without dragging the annoying centerstand. I'm more likely to top out and I do when I'm lightly loaded, going in a straight line and hit a bump at speed.

 

I think that it's worth noting that the lower shock mount bolt supplied by BMW comes with RED thread locker pre-applied. Isn't this the serious, heat-me-to-remove kind of sealer? I removed the red with acetone and applied blue LocTite to the bolt going into my new swingarm.

 

It doesn't have red locktite anymore. I've had the bolt out a couple of times, changing the shock, then changing the spring in the shock (to the 900# variety) and then again to change the bushings to better fitting ones. Works machined them just for me. I feel so special! I didn't use red or blue locktite putting it back in. I didn't need heat to get it out the first time, either.

[ESokoloff]

I've had the bolt out a couple of times

 

Did you torque to spec each time?

[ap66]

 

My rear shock bolt doesn't look so hot either! I'm replacing it before it goes. I run Wilbers on my 1150 Adv. Entirely possible that it has bottomed out when carring quite a load on the bike.

[OlGeezer]

 

Did you torque to spec each time?

 

You know, I may not have. But I don't think it failed because it backed out. If that had happened, the bolt would have failed in single shear and there would be no remnant in the threaded receiver. But, I could be wrong about this. Anyway, I might have a difficult time getting my torque wrench in there. I will certainly give it a try this time, along with some BLUE Locktite.