Stainless Steel Fairing Screws.

[kenny21545]

I'm looking for the source of the Stainless Steel fairing screws. Anyone know where it is? R1150rt

[g_nuse]

I bought one at my local BMW dealer last week.

[jrlunsford]

Go to cyclegadgets.com and ask for Sean. These guys have quite abit of accessories for the BMW'S.

[Couchrocket]

I'll assume that you'd like to switch to SS from the stock black ones, and therefore "need them all."

 

At one time A&S BMW , near Sacramento, CA, was nice enough to figure the number needed, and the BMW part numbers, for the SS fairing screws that were used in very late production of the 04 RT's. What is good about this a opposed to buying one of the SS kits available through 3rd party folk, is that these screws have the nice "taper" on the lead thread. The aftermarket ones do not and need more care not to cross thread them. The only caveat to taking this route is that these screws are "torx" head, so you'll need the right torx driver / bit.

 

My .02

[Boffin]

I'll assume that you'd like to switch to SS from the stock black ones, and therefore "need them all."

 

At one time A&S BMW , near Sacramento, CA, was nice enough to figure the number needed, and the BMW part numbers, for the SS fairing screws that were used in very late production of the 04 RT's. What is good about this a opposed to buying one of the SS kits available through 3rd party folk, is that these screws have the nice "taper" on the lead thread. The aftermarket ones do not and need more care not to cross thread them. The only caveat to taking this route is that these screws are "torx" head, so you'll need the right torx driver / bit.

 

My .02

 

Or you could just polish up the OEM black anodised SS screws that came with the bike......

 

Andy

[Couchrocket]

Or you could just polish up the OEM black anodised

It is quite apparent that you've not heard of Maynard G. Krebs.

[hANNAbONE]

bACK iN 2001 I bought them (ordered them from) FASTENAL...had to wait a day of two but they were the real deal when they came in.

 

I used to work in diamonds and still have really close friends in the business..actually the jewelers setting stones etc...so I went and hand polished all of the screws to a brilliant shine..awesome.

 

I also took a green 3M scratchy thingie and satin polished a group of them also - very "aluminum" looking...totally matching in the satin "pattern".

 

Nice stuff -

[Peter W]

You obsess, my friend. But I like it.

[UberXY]

] It is quite apparent that you've not heard of Maynard G. Krebs.

 

My childhood hero.

 

Check with aircraft supply companies - they are great sources of quality fasteners.

 

Aircraft Spruce Company

[mefly2]

Or you could just polish up the OEM black anodised

It is quite apparent that you've not heard of Maynard G. Krebs.

 

Ahhhh, yessss ... is this now BOHEMIAN Motor Works ?

Way to go Dobie!

[KMG_365]

Someone call me??

[Eschelon1]

Try Wunderlich (BMW of Santa Cruz)

[Couchrocket]

Someone call me??

 

OK, so what does the "G." stand for? This is the acid test of authenticity!

[GA1150RT]

I know I replaced all of mine with a Wunderlich set. I believe Santa Cruz BMW is the authorized BMW distributor?

[Rob L]

You can buy them through McMaster Carr on the internet and get a box of long and a box of short (100 each) for less than most "kits" You will have enough to do 3 bikes!

[KMG_365]

Someone call me??

 

OK, so what does the "G." stand for? This is the acid test of authenticity!

So, you've never clicked on the links in my sig line?

[Traveler]

Anyone know the part number for the late '04 fairing screws mentioned earlier? I have them and two are missing. I like them and want just them. I emailed A&S to see if they still know the number, but am backing it up with this request. Thanks all.

[phoenixtexas]

Kenny: desmoparts.net has them, they also have a store on e-bay automotive. They also have a full range of stainless nuts and bolts for your bike, not just fairing screws. I've replaced all my visible fasteners, and the improvement in appearance is dramatic.

[g_nuse]

The correct stainless screws that I purchased at my local BMW motorcycle dealer were invoiced with this part number: 06 32 7 651 212

 

The microfiche on the internet is wrong. It shows the screws holding the bottom of the fairing as the same. Not true, those are hex head and black, not Torx and s.s.

[Bob_Minor]

All the screws you need for $20: Cycle gadgets screw kit

 

I just put these on my bike last week. No problems.

[Traveler]

This isn't about need. It is about getting the Button Head Torx drive SS screws that came on the late '04's.

[Traveler]

g_nuse,

 

So they came as torx? There is a lot of other comments on this and I am trying to filter out what is needed. I have tried the number on various micro fische sites and they come up as hex or other.

 

Got a pic?

[g_nuse]

The part number I posted is off the invoice from Blue Moon BMW. I went and told them to forget the fiche. The screws I got are s.s. with torx heads. I have a late model 2004 Titan Silver R1150RT and wanted to match the screws that came from the factory on my bike. BTW, the same screw is used on the R1200RT and K1200GT........I was looking at them to prove a point to the parts department. I don't know why BMW makes this such a big deal.

[Traveler]

Blue Moon is a great place. Got to spend an afternoon there a few years back when doing some travel for work. You are lucky to be in that area. I am in Indianapolis and have no dealer within 100 miles. Hope that we get one soon though since there are a few battleing with BMWOA for the rights to the area.

 

 

Thanks for the response. I'll try to order that number. Cheap as they are, what is there to loose. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Traveler]

The part number you posted (06 32 7 651 212) is correct for the '04 fairing screws. Button head, torx drive, stainless.

 

Thanks!!!!

 

Got them from A & S and they verified the number and had them in stock.

[Slyder_Steve]

Stupid question here, but is that a full set of fairing screws or just a few replacements?

 

If the later, does anyone know where I can get a full set of torx-head fairing screws?

 

Thanks,

Steve

[OrchardRider]

I bought a set and never got around to installing. Do you ned them?

[Couchrocket]

So, you've never clicked on the links in my sig line?

I should have known... "Forgivness, sire?"

[Traveler]

Full set. Complete set required to mount both sides of the tupperware. ie. all exposed and visible screws except the 3mm button head one by the speakers and the one under the front of the seat.

 

 

[RickB]

By "full set", are you referring to the 32 fasteners holding the side panels on the bike? The 32 fasteners that must be removed to replace the secondary plugs... :dopeslap:The 32 fasteners that must be removed to synch the throttle bodies... :dopeslap:The 32 fasteners that must be removed to add brake fluid or service the ABS... :dopeslap:The 32 fasteners that must be removed to do almost anything to the bike... Are these the fasteners you are referring to?? I HATE THOSE FASTENERS!!! ANYONE WHO SAYS THEY GET THEIR SIDE PANELS ON OR OFF IN 5 MINUTES IS A LIAR!! A LIAR!! I must go find my meds...

[Urban Surfer]

I used a black self etching primer to fix the worn screw heads.

It's in an spray can available at any automotive paint shop.

Just dab a bit on with a Q tip and the screw heads look like new. It doesn't come off, and looks better than stainless on a blue bike.

[Traveler]

I use an electric impact with torx bit to remove the screws. I can have both side free in five minutes. The only real pain is the screws in front of the oil cooler. I do those with a size specific screw driver I got at Autozone. Fits in perfect.

 

Putting them back on... NOT five minute job done with hand tools... THAT is a pain. Probably takes 15 minutes for both sides.

 

I fix the 3mm button heads with a paint stick. Touch with it and smear a bit. Looks like new. Get them in any color at Ace Hardware or any other. I also have a silver one for the frame.

[WaywardSon]

Hard to believe that a thread on fairing screws goes four pages

 

I believe you will find what you want pretty cheap here:

 

http://www.boltdepot.com/dimension.aspx?cc=25&cs=82&cm=19

[Rob_Mayes]

I bought several from BIG R. They have a full set of standard and metric stainless and chrome mounting fasteners

[mark tiedemann]

I'm having a devil of a time getting the screws back into my tank when putting tupperware back on. There are 6 screws on top of the tank, 3 on each side. Specifically speaking it's the ones at the rear of the tank, just above the seat height. These screws go into threaded inserts which I believe are part of the tank. Everything else lines up just fine but when I get to these two screws (1 on each side)it seems that the tank tupperware (attached to the gas cap) just doesnt want to line up. Anyone have any good ideas on this? I dont want to strip them out but all the "finesse" in the world isnt working. Each time I take the tupperware off and reinstall it the work gets a bit harder.

[T__]

Mark,

Been there & experienced the same thing..

 

_I found that installing those upper screws first (just lightly not tight) then following up with the others helps not cross threading them..

 

_Also taking a Dremel with a small burr & opening the rear upper hole a little really helped re-installation..

 

_Also loosening the rear fuel tank attaching bolt/nut then sliding the tank slightly can make aligning those screws much easier (the tank mount hole in the frame has some slight slotting to allow movement..

 

 

Aftermarket SS screws are usually the worst as most are not pointed like the originals..

 

Twisty

 

 

[mark tiedemann]

Mark,

Been there & experienced the same thing..

 

_I found that installing those upper screws first (just lightly not tight) then following up with the others helps not cross threading them..

 

_Also taking a Dremel with a small burr & opening the rear upper hole a little really helped re-installation..

 

_Also loosening the rear fuel tank attaching bolt/nut then sliding the tank slightly can make aligning those screws much easier (the tank mount hole in the frame has some slight slotting to allow movement..

 

 

Aftermarket SS screws are usually the worst as most are not pointed like the originals..

 

Twisty

 

 

Thanks for the tips. You hit one of the screws on the head. I am installing a set of aftermarket SS screws with flat tips. I have always had trouble getting at least 1 of the rear tank screws in but this time it is twice as bad since I cant get 2 screws in. I like the idea of using a Dremel to make the tupperware hole slightly larger. I had thought of it last night but didnt know if I should or not. I tried to leave the other screws loose but that didnt help very much.

 

I'm learning how to work on my bike. I just bought it last January. I think I have had the tupperware off 6 or 7 times to do various things such as brake fluid flush, valve and throttle body adjustment, battery replacement etc. Putting the tupperware back on seems to be the hardest part of the job. At least I know how to do it if I have a problem on the road.

[mark tiedemann]

I used the Dremel tool to enlarge the hole and it looks like it will work.

 

I wonder, hypothetically of course, how to replace the threads in those holes if I cross thread them and booger them up too much? I would guess it would be with a heli-coil type of repair although I have never done one of those. I can see the day that continued removal/reinstallation over the years will screw up the threads enough that I cant get some of the screws back in.

[T__]

I used the Dremel tool to enlarge the hole and it looks like it will work.

 

I wonder, hypothetically of course, how to replace the threads in those holes if I cross thread them and booger them up too much? I would guess it would be with a heli-coil type of repair although I have never done one of those. I can see the day that continued removal/reinstallation over the years will screw up the threads enough that I cant get some of the screws back in.

 

 

 

Mark, I have repaired a few of those..

 

-First try is to chase the existing threads with a proper bottoming tap then use one of the longer screws that is shortened just enough to not completely bottom out (that usually does the trick unless the installation is forced or cross threaded in the future)..

 

-Next attempt is to drill & tap to install larger SAE thread type screw in the damaged spots (a real pain to keep the screws in the proper place after that)

 

-Probably next would be Heli-Coils but that would be a real pain..

 

Other problem if not careful is the screw insert spinning in the tank & that takes some drilling & some glue good adhesive to correct as there is always the chance of drilling too deep & into the tank itself..

 

When using SS screws it pays to be very careful & if ANY doubt’s at ALL chase the threads with a proper tap before installation.. On my last R1150RT I even ground slight points on the SS screws to help avoid future problems (seemed to help a lot)

 

Twisty

 

 

[mark tiedemann]

When using SS screws it pays to be very careful & if ANY doubt’s at ALL chase the threads with a proper tap before installation.. On my last R1150RT I even ground slight points on the SS screws to help avoid future problems (seemed to help a lot)

 

Twisty

 

 

One of the screws will only go halfway in so I'm sure I messed up those threads. Where would I find the kind of tool to "chase the threads with a proper tap"? I have seen them in the past but I have never bought or used one before.

[T__]

When using SS screws it pays to be very careful & if ANY doubt’s at ALL chase the threads with a proper tap before installation.. On my last R1150RT I even ground slight points on the SS screws to help avoid future problems (seemed to help a lot)

 

Twisty

 

 

One of the screws will only go halfway in so I'm sure I messed up those threads. Where would I find the kind of tool to "chase the threads with a proper tap"? I have seen them in the past but I have never bought or used one before.

 

 

 

Mark, If part of the threads are just buggered up, first blow out the insert holes with compressed air then use a 5mm X .8 bottoming tap to re-chase the threads out.. Be sure to mark the tap for depth so you don’t go too deep & bottom the tap & break it off.. Also be sure to keep pulling the tap out & blowing the hole out as your work the tap deeper as the thread particles will pile up in the bottom of the hole & could jamb the tap & lock it up or break it off..

 

Sounds like you haven’t used a tap to chase threads before? If not a BMW fuel tank insert is probably not the place to start.. You basically only have about one chance to get it started straight & started correctly & using a small sized tap in a closed bottom hole takes some finesse & good feel for how the tap should feel as it does it’s job (basically real easy to break a smaller tap off in the blind hole if not fluent with tap feel)..

 

Also sounds like you don’t own a small tap handle (will probably need one to properly drive the tap & control it’s angle & proper feel)

 

Unless you are sure you won’t have a problem using a tap probably should wait for a BMW Tec Dayz in your area & have someone familiar with small tap use help you out.. Or visit a machine shop or dealer in your area & have them do it for you..

 

It is a very quick & easy job for someone familiar with tap usage & tap feel but can go wrong in a hurry if done wrong..

 

Where do you live? Maybe someone from the board here can ride by & help you out..

 

If you want to try it yourself all you really need is a 5mm X .8 bottoming tap & some way to drive it.. Should be available from a local tool store or old style (not a yuppie type) auto parts store..

 

If you can’t find a proper tap I have a few in my tool box & can lend you one if you pay the postage both ways..

 

Twisty

 

 

[mark tiedemann]

Thanks for the great information. You are correct in concluding that I have never tapped threads before. Fortunately I have a couple of good friends who might know how to do it. If they havent done it I dont mind buying the tools and doing it with some guidance. If anyone lives in the Pittsburgh area and can offer advice I'm in Mt Lebanon which is the southern suburbs.

 

Mark

[mark tiedemann]

I bought the tap this morning and spoke to my friend who I thought would know how to do the job. He has equipment and expertise needed to fix my error.