Ground Loop? Valentine is culprit

[markgoodrich]

Okay, so I bought and installed the remote volume control for the Valentine, hooked it into the Autocom, and now have both a constant tone and engine rpm-related electrical noise. Everything is hard wired into a Touratech fused power block. Turn off the Valentine, and the noises are gone.

 

If it's a ground loop, where should the isolator go?

 

TIA.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

In the audio line between the V1 and the Autocomm.

Mine does the same thing. I think it is cause the V1 is using the system ground as the audio ground.

[markgoodrich]

In the audio line between the V1 and the Autocomm.

Mine does the same thing. I think it is cause the V1 is using the system ground as the audio ground.

 

Brillig! Thx!

[markgoodrich]

Update: Bought the pricey Autocom part that isolates the GPS AND Valentine. Completely eliminated the noise. It was $45, versus about $15-20 each for two GLI units, I figured I'd go with the one that was designed by Autocom. It's red.

[Emoto]

Update: Bought the pricey Autocom part that isolates the GPS AND Valentine. Completely eliminated the noise. It was $45, versus about $15-20 each for two GLI units, I figured I'd go with the one that was designed by Autocom. It's red.

 

Although I use a distributing amp other than an autocom, I have the same problem. Can you please post a little more info about which autocom part it is that I should look at, and where it goes?

 

Thanks!

 

Bob

[markgoodrich]

I think you might be better off with this:

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-NjhJeiuwAn6...=3&sortBy=3

 

The Autocom part is specific to individual Autocom units, I think. The one I bought, for "models 2006 and up" is Part 1285.

 

The Crutchfield GLI should do the trick for you, assuming you have 3.5mm plugs. If you have RCA type plugs, Radio Shack has a GLI that might work.

 

The advantage for the Autocom is both the GPS and radar get isolated with one piece of magic, and I still have an open accessory jack if I think of something else to divert my attention from the road.

[Emoto]

I think you might be better off with this:

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-NjhJeiuwAn6...=3&sortBy=3

 

The Autocom part is specific to individual Autocom units, I think. The one I bought, for "models 2006 and up" is Part 1285.

 

The Crutchfield GLI should do the trick for you, assuming you have 3.5mm plugs. If you have RCA type plugs, Radio Shack has a GLI that might work.

 

The advantage for the Autocom is both the GPS and radar get isolated with one piece of magic, and I still have an open accessory jack if I think of something else to divert my attention from the road.

 

Thanks!

[EffBee]

Update: Bought the pricey Autocom part that isolates the GPS AND Valentine. Completely eliminated the noise. It was $45, versus about $15-20 each for two GLI units, I figured I'd go with the one that was designed by Autocom. It's red.

 

Although I use a distributing amp other than an autocom, I have the same problem. Can you please post a little more info about which autocom part it is that I should look at, and where it goes?

 

Thanks!

 

Bob

 

Actually, Mark's description of it being RED leads me to believe that of the two most popular solutions, he chose the second one.

 

Solution One: You have a V-1 that you want to plug directly into the Autocom. In this case use Part #1314 which is a stereo isolated cable (yes, the V-1's output is stereo). You plug this into the Aux port on a Pro-M1 or Pro-7, and you plug it into Aux1 on an Active Rider and Aux1 or Aux3 on a Pro-AVi. Do not plug it into Aux3 (Active) or Aux4 (Pro) as these require a special splitter (see below).

 

Solution Two: You have a V-1 and you want it to share an Autocom port with another, non-music accessory. In this case you would use a splitter, Part #1281 if you have an Autocom Pro-M1 or Pro-7. If you have an Autocom Active Rider or Pro-AVi, you would use a splitter, Part #1285 and plug it into Aux3 if it's on an Active Rider and Aux4 if it's on a Pro-AVi. Both the 1281 and 1285 are RED. You would then connect the V-1 to the 1281 or 1285 splitter using Part #1307 which is a straight, 3.5mil-to-3.5mil stereo connection cable (one comes with your Autocom kit).

 

There are other solutions, but these are the two most common ways to eliminate Ground Loop Interference from a V-1 Radar Detector.

[markgoodrich]

Correct, Fernando. I chose Door Number Two so I could have an aux port available in the future...maybe a DVD player. I have the Active Plus unit, set up for two up riding.

[EffBee]

Correct, Fernando. I chose Door Number Two so I could have an aux port available in the future...maybe a DVD player. I have the Active Plus unit, set up for two up riding.

The Active is a great choice. When you do add your DVD player, make sure it goes into Aux2. If it's self-powered, just use a straight stereo cable #1309. If it's bike-powered, use #1314.

 

Enjoy!

[Rocket_Cowboy]

Hmmm ... what's the problem if I use a #1281 when I should have used a #1285? I had all this working on my old Active-7 Smart back before they renumbered all their cables. I believe that would have been the new #1281. Now I've upgraded to the Pro-AVI and am still using that 2 year old splitter, but it sounds like I might want to get #1285.

 

I probably should recheck all my isolators/splitters, as I bet they're all the older tech ones ... and thus why I'm still getting some noice in my system.

[markgoodrich]

Much later...I've added a little amplifier with volume control. I mounted the volume controller where the radio controls blank is, which works fine, BUT, I've got a ground loop of death problem. The amp guy is sending me a new one, which I hope will resolve the problem, but I'll also be ordering the stereo version of the Autocom GLI...BECAUSE: I tried the Crutchfield PAC SNI-1, and not only did it not alleviate the loop, it cut the volume by a huge percentage. Never ran across this issue before, but it's definitely the PAC ground loop isolator that drops the volume...I even powered the amp up using a separate power source, and all was well until I put the GLI in line to troubleshoot, and bonk, the sound went way down.

[John Bentall]

Hmmm ... what's the problem if I use a #1281 when I should have used a #1285? I had all this working on my old Active-7 Smart back before they renumbered all their cables. I believe that would have been the new #1281. Now I've upgraded to the Pro-AVI and am still using that 2 year old splitter, but it sounds like I might want to get #1285.

 

I probably should recheck all my isolators/splitters, as I bet they're all the older tech ones ... and thus why I'm still getting some noice in my system.

 

Charlie,

 

Whether or not you need to worry about #1281 or #1285 depends on which port you have the splitter plugged into.

For example Autocom allow a #1281 splitter for Radar/GPS to be plugged into AUX1 on the Super Pro (but it will mute the audio of a cellphone plugged into AUX2) but recommend the #1285 if using AUX4 - as Fernando said. AUX4 has a microphone and VOX pole on the socket for alternative use of a FRS radio - and also mutes AUX2.

[markgoodrich]

Hmmm ... what's the problem if I use a #1281 when I should have used a #1285? I had all this working on my old Active-7 Smart back before they renumbered all their cables. I believe that would have been the new #1281. Now I've upgraded to the Pro-AVI and am still using that 2 year old splitter, but it sounds like I might want to get #1285.

 

I probably should recheck all my isolators/splitters, as I bet they're all the older tech ones ... and thus why I'm still getting some noice in my system.

 

Charlie,

 

Whether or not you need to worry about #1281 or #1285 depends on which port you have the splitter plugged into.

For example Autocom allow a #1281 splitter for Radar/GPS to be plugged into AUX1 on the Super Pro (but it will mute the audio of a cellphone plugged into AUX2) but recommend the #1285 if using AUX4 - as Fernando said. AUX4 has a microphone and VOX pole on the socket for alternative use of a FRS radio - and also mutes AUX2.

 

John,(or anyone?) am I correct in thinking I need the #1285 for stereo music input into Aux 2, to rid myself of the ground loop created by installation of the small amplifier?

[Scarver]

This may not be your problem but...

 

Eliminating ground loops is a challenge. Just finished building a custom isolator to overcome the loop created by using the Autocom PTT switch and Autocom custom cable. While you can insert Autocom or Crutchfield or RS GLIs, they may not solve all your noise problems if you are using the Autocom PTT switch.

 

The Autocom PTT switch connects to Autocom ground so if you are using it to control any bike powered equipment, you may/will create a ground loop. The Kenwood TK3101 FRS/GMRS radio with special back gets around this problem by using Autocom power. On the other hand, the Cobra CB interface (Autocom Part 1433) creates a ground loop if you use a bike mounted antenna even if the CB is battery powered!

 

Point is to check and understand where each system hooked to the Autocom is obtaining its ground connection.

[John Bentall]

You will need isolation because of the bike-powered amp.

What else are you going to plug into the #1285 besides the V1