Final Drive: Recommendations for Installing Rear Drive needle Bearing Race

[SWB]

I'm replacing the rear drive needle bearings in my final drive R1100RT) with 660 Oilite Bronze bushings. Though the manual requires heat to remove the OEM needle bearing races, they came out with little force by tapping them out with a socket and socket extention.

 

However, the manual also directs heating the neck of the case housing to 120 C degrees prior to installing the new bearing race into the housing. I still have lub in the final drive and there's oil around the housing neck area. I'm concerned about fire using either my heat gun or a torch (preferred; I have a good heat gun, but it takes forever to heat the case). (FYI, the bearing race is already in the freezer.)

 

Also, I was going to use the socket and mallet method to press in the race, but that would mean either turning the final drive on it's side, or jury-rigging something to prop up the final drive against a concrete wall. Or, I can do what the manual directs, and press them in. I've done that before using a bolt through the middle, washers at either end, and a nut to tighten and press in the fitting. Problem with that was when I installed the swing arm fittings, the directions said heat to 80 degress C, freeze the bearing, and press in. As soon as the bearing made contact with the swing arm housing, the temp dropped to about 40 degrees C, and I had a heck of a time getting those bearings to seat.

 

Right now, I'm probably going to forget about the heat, and try pressing in the race using the nut-and-bolt method, rather than accept the risk of fire. I think that the race can take more pressure with less likely hood of damage than than a roller bearing.

 

Would appreciate ideas and recommendations. The final drive is an expensive component to trash by inexperience. Thanks.

[SWB]

Was a piece of cake. Used the heat gun to get the case to about 80 degrees C. Put a 15" bolt through the case horizontally through both holes, washer on either end, put the frozen bearing race on the between the washer and target hole in the case, and tightened up the bolt on the other side. Only tricky part was: Use 3 to 4 heavy washers on the side pressing the bearing or race; I used one washer only, and on the second attempt the washer bent, allowing the race to seat in slightly crooked. With 4 washers, it seated properly. Second unplanned event was that the bolt spun as the bolt tighted. Held the middle of the bolt with 2 vise grips; problem solved.

 

If I were using this method on a roller bearing, I'll probably consider using a socket between the bearing and washers, to ensure that the pressure was on the outside of the bearing (i.e. the bearing race) and not the inner race to ensure the bearing isn't damaged. That, or find a washer large enough that it doesn't put pressure on the inner bearing race.

 

I have a few pictures if anyone wants to see them, i.e. for those of you who have never pressed in a bearing.

 

This was a much easier task than I had feared.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Good thinking on the home made press thing. I pretty much do the same thing in a similar situation. The only difference is I tend to use sockets on both ends rather than washers to avoid the misalignment you encountered.

 

Did you measure the fit before you attempted this? Normally a bushing and a needle bearing are not fitted the same. Line on line or maybe a 0.001" interference for the bearing and tighter with the bushing are the norms. It is also common practice with a bushing such as this to use a very tight fit (0.002 or 3 interference) and then ream the bushing to size afterwards.

[dcm3]

Thanks for the post, Scott. I, for one, would appreciate your posting the pictures.

[SWB]

Good thinking on the home made press thing. I pretty much do the same thing in a similar situation. The only difference is I tend to use sockets on both ends rather than washers to avoid the misalignment you encountered.

 

Did you measure the fit before you attempted this? Normally a bushing and a needle bearing are not fitted the same. Line on line or maybe a 0.001" interference for the bearing and tighter with the bushing are the norms. It is also common practice with a bushing such as this to use a very tight fit (0.002 or 3 interference) and then ream the bushing to size afterwards.

 

I saw a post where Jamie had problems with that. I've only installed the race and haven't fit the pin through the bushing yet. I'm still working on getting the clutch and transmission in. I'll ream it if the bushing doesn't fit. Hmmm ... maybe I should freeze the pin and heat the bushing; hadn't thought of that. Why should I ream it rather than drilling to enlarge hole in the bushing? Also, the guy who manufactures these kits has a note indicating that locktite red should be applied inside the bushing, not just the threads on the pins (i.e. presumably means, to glue the bushing to the pin!?). It'd be a heck of a hassle re-torquing the pins or removing them; I don't think I'm going to do it.

 

One adventure at a time ....

[Eckhard Grohe]

Reaming is a more precise method of sizing the hole when it it done properly. You should use a guide block to hole the reamer squared to the plane of the opening.

 

Check with your bushing supplier to see if he really wants you to locktite it to the pin. Sort of defeats the purpose of reaming it.