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My bike just died on the highway!


paulcbrowne

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paulcbrowne

I was going about 45 mph in the left lane of a divided highway with several cars around me. This was the first ride after the bike being garaged for winter snows. I had ridden about 20 miles, stopped for an hour and was riding back home. All of sudden the bike died after just a mile or so. It was like the ignition kill switch was suddenly turned off -- but it was NOT.

 

I popped into neutral and hit the starter, tried popping the clutch, no luck. I pulled to a left turn lane an hit the flashers. Hit the starter and nothing. I sat for about a minute trying to figure out my next step. Then I tried the starter and it fired right up.

 

I hasn't done it again, but quitting like that in traffic is pretty scary and it could have been worse at higher speed and in heavier traffic.

 

Has anyone else had this happen to them?

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I'd try the ignition interlock circuit, IE: kill switch, sidestand switch, etc. If under warranty, get to dealer asap. They can read comp fault, right?

 

MB.

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I was going about 45 mph in the left lane of a divided highway with several cars around me. This was the first ride after the bike being garaged for winter snows. I had ridden about 20 miles, stopped for an hour and was riding back home. All of sudden the bike died after just a mile or so. It was like the ignition kill switch was suddenly turned off -- but it was NOT.

 

I popped into neutral and hit the starter, tried popping the clutch, no luck. I pulled to a left turn lane an hit the flashers. Hit the starter and nothing. I sat for about a minute trying to figure out my next step. Then I tried the starter and it fired right up.

 

I hasn't done it again, but quitting like that in traffic is pretty scary and it could have been worse at higher speed and in heavier traffic.

 

Has anyone else had this happen to them?

 

I'm with BMW Motorrad USA. I've passed this message on to a BMW Motorrad National Customer Relations Representative who will be in touch with you soon.

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"I'm with BMW Motorrad USA. I've passed this message on to a BMW Motorrad National Customer Relations Representative who will be in touch with you soon."

 

____________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

Since you won't take PMs....How about a little help with my GSA????....Maybe speed up the repair time.

 

See

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/835148/an/0/page/0#Post835148

 

 

Whip

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I'm with BMW Motorrad USA. I've passed this message on to a BMW Motorrad National Customer Relations Representative who will be in touch with you soon.

As both a BMW product owner and a BMW shareholder it's nice to see BMWMUSA is monitoring this forum. I think this is a major step forward for the company and is appreciated by many of us. Scott

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Dick_at_Lake_Tahoe_NV

 

After reading this link a couple of things come to mind. If the ignition switch is sensitve to "De-icer" then it may also be sensitive to putting in Oil--I'd be careful with that also. As far as getting the key into a frozen lock, how about heating the key a little, then inserting it. This take 2-3 heating cycles, but would seem like a safe way to do it.

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After reading this link a couple of things come to mind. If the ignition switch is sensitve to "De-icer" then it may also be sensitive to putting in Oil--I'd be careful with that also. As far as getting the key into a frozen lock, how about heating the key a little, then inserting it. This take 2-3 heating cycles, but would seem like a safe way to do it.

 

Most commercial deicers have a lot of salt in them and as such will conduct electricity - it is why salt causes things to corrode more quickly. Clean oil is a pretty good insulator and so will not conduct but it will stop the lock filling with water to freeze in the first place.

 

Andy

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After reading this link a couple of things come to mind. If the ignition switch is sensitve to "De-icer" then it may also be sensitive to putting in Oil--I'd be careful with that also. As far as getting the key into a frozen lock, how about heating the key a little, then inserting it. This take 2-3 heating cycles, but would seem like a safe way to do it.

 

Most commercial deicers have a lot of salt in them and as such will conduct electricity - it is why salt causes things to corrode more quickly. Clean oil is a pretty good insulator and so will not conduct but it will stop the lock filling with water to freeze in the first place.

 

Andy

 

The spray-on deicers for windshields and locks are almost entirely alcohol with perhaps a touch of anti-freeze Andy. You might be thinking of aircraft wing deicers which do contain some non-corrosive chemical "salts" to prolong their deicing activity.

Google "MSDS deicer".

< http://www.wd-wpp.com/msds2/000012b6.pdf >

John

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Quote:

 

"I'm with BMW Motorrad USA. I've passed this message on to a BMW Motorrad National Customer Relations Representative who will be in touch with you soon."

 

Quote:

 

Welcome......Your presence here may be of benefit to we BMW riders and BMW Motorrad also...I for one am glad to see you on the site thumbsup.gif....

 

Phil.........Redbrick

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Quote:

 

"I'm with BMW Motorrad USA. I've passed this message on to a BMW Motorrad National Customer Relations Representative who will be in touch with you soon."

 

Quote:

 

Welcome......Your presence here may be of benefit to we BMW riders and BMW Motorrad also...I for one am glad to see you on the site thumbsup.gif....

 

Phil.........Redbrick

 

Just a note on this point--we've known for a long time that BMW Motorrad watches the goings on here. Whether or not they act on what they read is, of course, up to them. However, it's worth bearing this in mind: the experiences and opinions you post here (and on other discussion boards) can have an impact on the company's policies and practices) . . . or not. grin.gif

 

/hijack

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