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Headlight help for the mechanically challenged. Anyone???


CharlieAllnut

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CharlieAllnut

Been riding today ('04 1150RT) and when it got dark enough to be noticed, I realized my low beam isn't there. It just isn't coming on and I've parked the bike until tomorrow. So my probably dumb question is---Is this simply a bulb replacement matter, or is there a switch or fuse that might be responsible? I don't have a manual, but I'm beginning to think I should invest in one. Any help will be appreciated.

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I had the same problem and was worried that it may be something serious. Thankfully it was just the bulb. I replaced it and was good to go... clap.gif

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I had the same problem and was worried that it may be something serious. Thankfully it was just the bulb. I replaced it and was good to go... clap.gif

 

On the other hand...

 

I had my low beam go out a few months ago. I had high beam on, when I switched to low, I discovered I had no headlight. Obviously, I switched back to high beam for the duration of the trip home, about a mile. With a little investigation, I discovered it was a bad connection in the switch. I flicked it a few times, low started working again and it hasn't failed since.

 

This is inconsistent with the Stan's comment that low beam is independent of the switch. Am I wrong or does the low beam wiring go through the switch. It is too late at night to dig out the wiring diagram and a magnifying glass.

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Hopefully it's just the bulb, which is a pain in the but to change if you have big hands. If it's both the low and Hi beam, you may need a new headlight assembly. On the 1150RT the low & Hi beam share a common ground strap in the headlight assembly itself. I lost my headlights on a trip the the Beartooth, but fortunately I got by on the fog lights. When I got home the dealer replaced the headlight under warranty.

 

lurker.gif

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Charlie,

 

You may be overly modest in your "mechanically challenged" self-description; if not, well, my two cents are: new headlite bulb should solve your problem (that's one cent) and do not let fingers (or any flesh) directly contact bulb's glass (that's penny #2). If you do inadvertently touch bulb's glass, use isopropal alcohol on tissue to clean off kooties; otherwise finger's oil will shorten bulb's life.

 

Jonnie w/o kooties

 

oh yah, implicit in the "new bulb" recommendation is the fact that your bike uses a dual filament (low & hi beams in one bulb) halogen (that's no fingers) bulb.

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Stan Walker

This is inconsistent with the Stan's comment that low beam is independent of the switch. Am I wrong or does the low beam wiring go through the switch. It is too late at night to dig out the wiring diagram and a magnifying glass.

 

Stan is always right.... lmao.giflmao.gif

 

The R1150RT is different from the R1100RT. Low beam bulb doesn't turn off when you turn on the high beam.

 

Stan

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Stan is always right.... lmao.giflmao.gif

 

The R1150RT is different from the R1100RT. Low beam bulb doesn't turn off when you turn on the high beam.

 

Stan

That's good. It means the diagnosis of my problem was correct, or at least not impossible.
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oh yah, implicit in the "new bulb" recommendation is the fact that your bike uses a dual filament (low & hi beams in one bulb) halogen (that's no fingers) bulb.

I think you will find this bit of information to be incorrect. You have one bulb with its filament for low beam, and another bulb with its filament for high beam on the 1150RT. Also for most markets the dip beam is on all the time the ignition is on (except for during the load shedding stage of engine start up).

Cheers

Andy

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OK, I just got in on this. Timely!!?? So might as well add to the confusion:

I've got an '02 RT & low beam croaked. Glad cars last more than 40K mi! What's the $ tag on a bulb? And then how about a replacement bulb OTHER than stock, like a hybrid? Besides keeping it legal (and courteous) I'd like all the candle power possible but sure don't want to fry my electrical system. Seems plenty of choices out there, but I get confused with all the claims & prices. (ie. Super White @$14.95, DeerSee @ $??, NearLegal, MegaBlinder, etc. etc.)

Be advised I already have Moto Lights, does that enter into the equation? (Like over taxing the altenator's elect. output)

Then even before it happens, how about death of the high beam? Lay it on me those of you with the wisdom and experience! Rw

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First...you will not overtax the alternator. Plenty of juice thumbsup.gif The high beam lamp is an H3 as are the fog lights. The low beam is an H7. Use any bulb that you want, but be aware that High wattage lamps increase heat and also put more stress on the switch.

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oh yah, implicit in the "new bulb" recommendation is the fact that your bike uses a dual filament (low & hi beams in one bulb) halogen (that's no fingers) bulb.

I think you will find this bit of information to be incorrect. You have one bulb with its filament for low beam, and another bulb with its filament for high beam on the 1150RT. Also for most markets the dip beam is on all the time the ignition is on (except for during the load shedding stage of engine start up).

Cheers

Andy

 

My bad.

 

Wooster whose only excuse is a penchent for speaking too quickly

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I have been pleased with the result of simple swap to a Sylvania/Osram Silverstar bulb (single H4 in my case) from my local auto parts shop.

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  • 1 month later...

I realize this is an older post however; I am going through the headlight issue right now as well. I replaced both bulbs and still nothing so my problem I think is a grounding issue. Incidentally, I accidentally discovered the easiest way to get your high beam light assembly into place. Instead of turning the handlebars to the far right and trying to insert it move to in front of the bike. You can see the hole and you have a much easier task at getting the bulb into the correct place. I discovered this after 40 mins of cursing German engineering, Im very mechanically changelled.

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