Stock Seat - Sliding forward feeling

[Chris_H]

I am sure there are posts about this, but I would like to know what is the best way to modify a R1150RT stock seat so that I don't get that feeling of "sliding forward" - The height is good but I often feel like my body is just sloping towards the tank. Don't really want to spend the $$$ on Corbin, etc. now, so your thoughts (and detailed approaches) are most welcome!

 

Chris

[flat_twin]

Hi Chris, Here's a link to a related thread.

link

 

You can also search for "seat jacks"

[Karp]

I just had my new (to me) R1150RT's saddle modfied by a local upholstrey shop for $85. While I could ride for hours on my old K75S, I found that an hour on the RT's stock saddle became rather painful. I had that "sliding forward" feeling and my weight was umm.. too far forward rather than on my buttocks. I determined that the cause was the too-gradual slope at the back of the front seat and had him re-shape it so that there was a more vertical slope. I also had him take a little foam off of the front to flatten the saddle somewhat. As cheap as I am, I did not want to spend the money on an aftermarket saddle, and I hope this will do the trick. The recent snow is melting and the temperatures should hit the 50's in another day or two, so I should soon find out if it was money well spent or not. I may also try to shim the front of the saddle as others have done.

[twolfy]

I put on seat jacks from Gadjet Guy (I think)

Tom

[skyskier]

 

Jacking the front of the seat is what you want to do. It is a very simple fix. I went to Home Depot and got some flat aluminum stock 2' long by 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick. It allowed me to make six plates so I could adjust the front seat hight in 1/8" increments. I played with it a bit, trying all different hights and found that 1/4" did the trick for me.

[Lineareagle]

+1 for seat jacking. +10 for day long.

I jacked the front of the seat, anything can be used, a nice piece of hard wood, I used some old plastic sheeting I had and a couple of longer screws - metric.

As well 1/4" was enough to tilt the seat for me. Increased my comfort time from 1 1/2 to 3 hours.

I eventually had day long do my seat I only stop now if I want to.

[Chris_H]

soo...

Doesn't jacking the seat with shims and what not just raise the seat in general? Will it raise the whole thing or just the front? I like the height as it is in general - just need a flatter feel, or raised front.

 

Chris

[BUSTED]

You add the spacers under the seat adjustment mount which is forward under the seat. The rear of the seat still rests on the snubbers in the locating notches. It definitely tilts the seat down rearward, or ramps it up forward, your choice of description.

[mefly2]

... get that feeling of "sliding forward" - The height is good but I often feel like my body is just sloping towards the tank.

 

Well said, I get the same feeling - quite uncomfortable on the nether region as well!

[wolcott]

I put on seat jacks from Gadjet Guy (I think)

Tom

 

Tom: You probably meant cyclegadgets didn't you?

[ChrisM]

soo...

Doesn't jacking the seat with shims and what not just raise the seat in general? Will it raise the whole thing or just the front? I like the height as it is in general - just need a flatter feel, or raised front.

 

Chris

 

It raises the front, not the rear, but the overall effect is for the seat to be higher overall. Use a couple of pieces of wood or other cheap material to see how it works, or doesn't work, for you. Later you can buy a fancy seat jack if you want the seat jacked but don'w like using old scraps to do it.

[Davis]

You can also just get 4 longer bolts for the seat adjuster and a handful of washers. Put stacks of washers under the adjuster on each bolt until you find the amount of rearward tilt you like, then make/find a set of shims the thickness of the washer stacks.

[MCDenny]

Same issue with my 1100RT & Cee Bailey leather seat. Just bought the new bolts today - 5mm by 30mm long is what you need.

[jwg122843]

I have the same problem on my R1150RT. I haven't tackled this yet but I am going to try this: There a couple of step-shaped supports at the rear of the seat. I don't know if they are solid or hollow, but if they are solid, I am going to cut away one step down to the level of the next lower step. If this works, I feel certain it will be more comfortable.These supports are only about $10 each so not much to lose.

[Boffin]

I have the same problem on my R1150RT. I haven't tackled this yet but I am going to try this: There a couple of step-shaped supports at the rear of the seat. I don't know if they are solid or hollow, but if they are solid, I am going to cut away one step down to the level of the next lower step. If this works, I feel certain it will be more comfortable.These supports are only about $10 each so not much to lose.

 

The steps on the bike are not solid. You could try just trimming the rubber buffers on the seat base. This lowers the rear of the seat, getting rid of the slide and lowering overall.

 

Andy

[90RedRider]

Chris, I agree with Karp. I had your same problem. I tried the seat jacks and thought a waste of time and effort. I went to a local that does seat work mostly for planes . He worked with me for only $60. We took the seat covering off and were able to put it back on no alterations. We trimmed the foam down at back of seat to make a slight bucket effect. If there is any height problem take a bit off the sides at the front of seat where your thighs go when feet are down. We put the cover back on and stapled it, shape was close enough it looks fine.

It was much better. To finish I trimmed the 2 rubber bumpers that hold back of seat on the platform under seat. I trimmed from the end that goes against the seat. I took less than 1/4 in. and this made a big difference. My seat is now not noticeable for a day of riding and this trimming was the final touch. When you look at the rubber bushing it is crowned like a rifle barrel end. I cut down to this with a thin blade cutting each fin. It came out smooth and just right. Less than a 1/4 in. I have the piece and could put it back if I ever needed .

 

Sid

Try this you will like it.

[BFG]

I added shims to the front and trimmed off the rear bumpers. As said, trim the bumbers on the seat side, you can always put them back on if it's too much. I got the tilt right but the pilot seat jiggled in the back where it hooks to the passenger seat. Fixed that by wrapping electrical tape around the tongue until it was a tight fit.

[stagrider]

Well my solution to this was a bit of a "bodge" as we say over here in the UK, but it sure worked. I decided the problem was just that my knees had no grip on the tank/fairing. I had a couple of replacement rubber shoe soles laying around in the shed so I glued them to the fairing just where your knees go and now my knees have something to grip. For me it has worked really well. My bike is black and so are the rubbers so it looks ok. If you have a nice pristine looking bike then I can imagine you may be reluctant to do this mod. I think I have seen knee pads advertised for these bikes which may have a more profesional look but I have never seen them. Also I am not sure if the UK spec fairing is the same as the US one. I think yours may have slots in it but ours doesn't (so easy to glue onto).

Regards

Mike

[stagrider]

Sorry, just realised my post isn't really relevant to you - my bike is an R1100RS - didn't notice that you ride an RT. Sorry ....

Mike

[awagnon]

Like some of the others, I shimmed the front by 1/4 inch and trimmed the top of the two rubber bumper supports on the back by about 3/16 inch. Much better now. By the way, I tried with just the shims and then just trimming the bumpers, but neither alone seemed to be enough.