Eureka Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 I need some advice. I keep reading here about replacing the stock shocks on a 1200RT. Some advocate replacing them "out the door" others say replace them at different mileages etc. I have 20K on my '05 and from what I can tell, the shocks are still good. So, what criteria are you using to recommend replacing shocks? What should I be feeling, experiencing in handling that would tell me I need new shocks. As far as what brand to get, I gather they are all about the same, custom made for rider/passenger weight, riding styles etc. Any reason for selecting Ohlins over Wilbers over et al??? Thanks in advance for your time and experience. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 Personal opinion, if you're not doing a lot of two-up riding, fully loaded riding, or you are an unusually large person, and the bike is behaving the way you like it, I'd say get some more mileage out of the stock suspension before spending $$ for an aftermarket system. People usually get the itch for something better when they start to notice wallowing, bottoming, disruption in hard riding, etc. Link to comment
Firefight911 Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 The stock shocks are a cheap compromise, at best. If you are 170 pounds and just cruise with no expectation of fine control of your steed, or never having the benefit of riding a bike with a properly set-up aftermarket suspension, you will never know the difference that can be had by an aftermarket suspension. As such, and since you and are are so ridiculously close to each other, I offer up my ST to you for a little comparo. I work in Folsom and get off duty tomorrow at 0800. If you are interested, you can meet me here at work and give her a 15 minute try before I head home and pack for Hill Country!! I have Wilber's and love them. I have had Ohlin's and loved them too. Customer Service with Wilber's is top notch!! PM me if you would like and I'll get you my info/address! Link to comment
Eureka Posted March 17, 2007 Author Share Posted March 17, 2007 Thanks for the info and offer. I'll defer on the offer of a test ride for a while, until I get more info. Although, it sounds like I should be more open minded about this. Just for the record, I'm 6'1", weigh at least 200 all suited up and ride solo 99% of the time. I ride the Berryessa route, Hwy 88 over Carson Pass, Wentworth Springs Road, and Salmon Falls roads fairly regularly when the weather permits. I'd classify myself as an 8/10ths rider, usually, with brief excursions into the 9/10ths range, when on a track. Link to comment
Firefight911 Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 Thanks for the info and offer. I'll defer on the offer of a test ride for a while, until I get more info. Although, it sounds like I should be more open minded about this. Just for the record, I'm 6'1", weigh at least 200 all suited up and ride solo 99% of the time. I ride the Berryessa route, Hwy 88 over Carson Pass, Wentworth Springs Road, and Salmon Falls roads fairly regularly when the weather permits. I'd classify myself as an 8/10ths rider, usually, with brief excursions into the 9/10ths range, when on a track. You are a prime candidate for the world of aftermarket shocks!!! Offer stands whenever you decide!! You and are are essentially the same size so the comparison would be pretty close with only difference being personal preference and the bike itself! Link to comment
paulcbrowne Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 This is partially a matter of personal preference. Mine is for far better shocks than what BMW chooses to put in the RT. I replaced my OEM shocks at 600 miles because the bike was IMHO unrideable with a full load of luggage and a 110# passenger. I also found that with the bike naked the OEM shocks were just awful in twisties. One man's opinion. Link to comment
Eureka Posted March 18, 2007 Author Share Posted March 18, 2007 When you say your bike was "just awful" in twisties, what do you mean? Did you have trouble maintaining a line through curves, did the bike oscillate up and down, due to pavement irregularities, did it want to weave as you went through the curve? Inquiring minds need to know. Link to comment
PaulW42 Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 I am sure good quality after market shocks make a big difference. Everyone I know who has done it tells me so and I trust them. I have not bothered BUT the biggest difference I've made so far (and it is a very big difference) is to get the correct tyre spec fitted. I use Conti Road Attacks. Continental say the 1200RT is on the cusp of the normal and C fitting (which I think has stiffer sidewalls) and either can be used. I have just had the C fitting put on the front and it has transformed the handling. The hint of wallow I used to get (and also used to get with the OEM Michelins) when tackling the twisties has completely gone and everything is much tauter. The ESA has become much more effective. It is difficult to describe just how much of an improvement this has made. It may not be as good as aftermarket shocks. In fact I'm sure it isn't but it may be a cheaper experiment in the quest for improved handling! Link to comment
Mudman Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Paul, I agree with your finding in my experience regarding tires. When I replaced the OEM Road Pilots with C spec Metzler z-6 tires the handling improved to a level the bike never possessed before. On the Metzler NA site they specifically call for this fitment. BMW lists this as an approved replacement tire choice. The C rear is heavier according to Metzler's specs. The suspension performance is the sum of many pieces and the tires greatly impact that performance not only in term of grip, but also sidewall contour and resiliency. This combo is working quite well with my stock ESA suspension now at 15000 miles. I have to say many complaints about suspension performance might be related to the tires that are mis-diagnosed as shocks. BMW sources the ESA units from WP and seem to be of good quality. When these show signs of wear I will then explore replacement options. The rumored ESA Ohlin's would be sweet BTW I ride solo with gear, my weight is north of 230 Link to comment
JohnBeaven Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Personal preferences are obviously the biggets influence here. The OEM tyre on my R12RT was the Z6 and found this tyre to be less than satisfactory. I just didn't have any confidence in the tyre at all. I replaced these with BT020's and the difference was remarkable - excellent grip wet and dry. I have just replaced the BT020's with Michelin Pilot Road's and so far find these to be at least as good as the BT020's in the dry. If it ever rains here again I will then assess their performance in the wet. As for the suspension units - I have no issue with them. I find them good enough to touch down the pegs in the twisties with confidence. I am sure I would find Wilber's or Ohlins far superior but presently I don't know any different. Link to comment
Tazz56 Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Has anyone replaced the RT shocks with shorter Works, Wilbers, or Ohlins? If so,how was the handling and comfort affected? I'm currently about 250lbs with 29" inseem which is why I'd like to drop the low seat height about an inch. I don't have an RT yet, but I will be trading my LT for one. I'm not sure if I should get the ESA or standard shocks(to be upgraded later). Thanks, Link to comment
Dave_in_TX Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Has anyone replaced the RT shocks with shorter Works, Wilbers, or Ohlins? If so,how was the handling and comfort affected? I'm currently about 250lbs with 29" inseem which is why I'd like to drop the low seat height about an inch. I don't have an RT yet, but I will be trading my LT for one. I'm not sure if I should get the ESA or standard shocks(to be upgraded later). Thanks, You weigh about a hundred pounds more than I do so I'm only guessing but I suspect that depending on the preload setting used, you might compress the suspension to where you don't really need a shorter shock. My inseam is in the 29-30 range and I can almosr flat foot my 1200RT with the preload at the softest setting. Link to comment
John in VA Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Has anyone replaced the RT shocks with shorter Works, Wilbers, or Ohlins? If so,how was the handling and comfort affected? I'm currently about 250lbs with 29" inseem which is why I'd like to drop the low seat height about an inch. I don't have an RT yet, but I will be trading my LT for one. I'm not sure if I should get the ESA or standard shocks(to be upgraded later). Thanks, I have an 1100RT and replaced the shocks at about 20k miles with Ohlins. It was like night and day a different and better bike. I am considering a new RT this spring, and after several test rides of several samples with and without ESA I decided I would definitely put Ohlins on any new RT before riding it out the door. Why does BMW offer factory Ohlins on the R1200S? Because BMW knows they're that much better than stock and rebuildable down the road. Too bad they're not offered on the RT from the factory and therefore cost twice as much as an aftermarket install. Link to comment
RamblinGuy Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 I just put Ohlins on my '05 12RT at 38K miles. The stock shocks were seeming to wallow a bit. Boy what a difference with Ohlins. Coincidentally, I just got my first chance to try them out in the Gold Country this past week for a few days (e.g., Salamon Falls, Wentworth Springs, etc.) Ohlins are terribly expensive, though -- about $1650 for the pair installed. My conclusion was that since I was sensing the wallowing I was ready for Ohlins. A few years ago, as a younger "re-entry" rider, I'll bet I couldn't have sensed the wallowing since I wasn't riding as hard. Link to comment
RoSPA_man Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Is it the case that the ESA shocks can be rebuilt by WP? If so, what is the cost and has anyone done it? Link to comment
John Bentall Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Apparently it is not possible to have them rebuilt in the USA - various folks have had several unsuccessful attempts. But since you are in Blighty, you can contact WP Suspension http://www.wpsuspension.co.uk/ and they will rebuild for about £125 each end. You leave the bike there for a couple of days and the price includes removal and reassembly. They "recommend" an overhaul every 2 or 3 years depending on usage. Link to comment
RoSPA_man Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Apparently it is not possible to have them rebuilt in the USA - various folks have had several unsuccessful attempts. But since you are in Blighty, you can contact WP Suspension http://www.wpsuspension.co.uk/ and they will rebuild for about £125 each end. You leave the bike there for a couple of days and the price includes removal and reassembly. They "recommend" an overhaul every 2 or 3 years depending on usage. Hi John Got this from WP- confirms what you say- I guess turnaround time would be better in winter! Hi Yes they can be rebuilt it is £90 per unit plus parts plus vat. Around 2-3 weeks at present. Regards Kevin harris Full Travel - WP Suspension Link to comment
marcopolo Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Has anyone in the US, or Canada, asked WP UK whether we could ship ours to them for rebuild? I mean this is the age of global commerce, isn't it? Link to comment
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