head light bulb for R1100RT

[gtunches]

What is the brightest head light bulb you can install on the R1100RT without burning up the wires?

 

Gerald

[GordonB]

It's an H4 I believe 40W. When mine burned out (installed by previous owner) I discovered there wasthe 90W installed, 2 yrs of riding and no burn out but I would not reccomend it.

[Boxerdad]

Check out this site http://www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Main/Products/H4_kits/h4_kits.html I've heard lots of good things about the product.

 

Can anyone give a personal testimonial?

[bmwmick]

I installed relays on both my bikes before I knew of Jim Davis. I've heard the relay kits he sells are first class.

 

They WILL extend the life of your Hi/Lo switch to almost forever, no matter what wattage bulb you use.

 

Mick

[BUSTED]

I've used 80/100 for the last 150k on 2 1100RT's without any problem. No burnt wires or sockets.

[Tony_K]

Bulbs come is many different wattages.

A relay installation will keep things safe and sane.

 

Our own Ebbo has put together a do it yourself relay kit for the handy types out there.

http://www.ebbo.org/headlamp_relays.php

[Davis]

The weak link in the oilhead headlight wiring is the dimmer switch. In stock form it switches the entire headlight load and will almost certainly eventually fail with a higher power bulb.

 

While the wiring is unlikely to melt the insulation from a higher wattage bulb, the voltage drop in the wiring is noticeable with the stock wattage and will only increase with higher power bulbs. Install a relay and larger wires to feed the headlight and you'll eliminate the concern of the dimmer switch failing as well as get more light out of the stock bulb.

 

For more light without going to a higher wattage bulb, try the European Osram Silverstars . With relays and a Silverstar, you'll get as much or more light than many of the higher wattage bulbs on the stock wiring without the concern for a failed dimmer switch or heat damage to the reflector or plug.

 

If you do decide to go to a higher wattage bulb, a relay and a high temp connector for the bulb is a really good idea.

[OoPEZoO]

Look into HID setups and get the best of both worlds......more light with less current draw. The previous owner installed HIDs on my bike for the high and low beams. They are absolutely awesome lights that put out a ton of usefull light without straining the electrical system.

[BUSTED]

Never added an extra relay to headlight circuit and never had a light switch failure on my 1100RT's running the 80/100 bulbs.

YMMV

[Paul Mihalka]

Never added an extra relay to headlight circuit and never had a light switch failure on my 1100RT's running the 80/100 bulbs.

YMMV

Same here...

[bmwmick]

Be careful, that ebbo site says you can delete the ground wire on the H4 connector. This is a very bad idea. You will be drawing between 7 and 8 amps with a 100 watt bulb and if you only have an 'incidental' ground path, things can get hot.

Will it work 'most' of the time....yes. Should you try it? No.

When I re-wire a bike to add relays, I add an additional ground from the H4 connector to the main frame ground under the fuel tank.

 

Mick

[Tony_K]

Everything is grounded. Did you review at the schematic and how it works or just read that one line?

It's a better system than stock as it is also fused and relayed. Double fail safe.

[smiller]

Never added an extra relay to headlight circuit and never had a light switch failure on my 1100RT's running the 80/100 bulbs.

Same here...

Same here...

 

Using a relay is undoubtedly a good practice but it is not mandatory.

[bmwmick]

Everything is grounded. Did you review at the schematic and how it works or just read that one line?

It's a better system than stock as it is also fused and relayed. Double fail safe.

 

Yep,

Reviewed the schematic again....must be the Limey wording that had me confused. I don't use the ground at the 'factory' H4 connector to control the relays either, totally unnecessary. Not only do relays give you more light output and longer switch life......they free-up the Load Shed relay for other projects.

 

Mick

[Brian PDQ Signs]

 

Using a relay is undoubtedly a good practice but it is not mandatory.

 

True, however I was on my way back from Spokane (to Everett ~250 miles) one afternoon/evening when my switch went out. I had about 60K on the clock. Ended up following cars & trucks to the next big town 30 miles down the road and spending the night. Next morning I made it home in the daylight. Taking the switch apart and cleaning helped but it eventually failed again. I replace the switch and installed some relays just for good measure. Inexpensive to do and I feel safer everytime I ride at night (of course the extra PIAA's help - ha, ha)

[John Dickens]

Like others here I kept to the standard 60/55w bulb but with the 50% higher light output. No extra power consumption but a much improved beam.

[wolcott]

Check out this site http://www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Main/Products/H4_kits/h4_kits.html I've heard lots of good things about the product.

 

Can anyone give a personal testimonial?

 

Boxerdad: I put on one of the eastern beaver headlamp relay harness kits on my '98 R1100RT along with a Sylvania Silverstar H4 bulb. I could detect a noticeable difference in the lighting. It's a nice wiring harness with quality relays. I would definitely recommend the product. No affiliation, yada, yada... I only put in a stock $20 silverstar H4 from Autozone, so if you got one of those fancy European Osram bulbs, then that would be the way to go. Why they did not build relays into the lighting system on an expensive motorcycle is beyond me- driving at night is dangerous enough without a half-ass headlamp. I also mounted Hella FF50's on EMP brackets with an autoswitch. Let there be light!

[Steve_Witmer]

RE: Eastern Beaver Relay Kit

 

I'm planning to install the kit this week, and I'll let you know how it goes.

 

It looks like a promising kit. Components and associated wiring appear to be high quality and the wire guage is much heavier than what is currently carrying my headlamp current. I don't have any reason to doubt that I'll gain a couple volts at the existing 55/60W lamp, and that should increase lamp output.

 

BTW -- My order was shipped promptly. I think it came from Japan and I had it in less than a week.

[j1016]

I am also looking at lighting options and was considering a relay and a different bulb. I was wondering about the Osram Silverstars and found one available in Canada. Any one know if there is a difference between the European Osram Silverstars and the Sylvania Osram Silverstars (http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/HighPerformance/Silverstar/) sold in North America? Thanks, John R.

[Davis]

Euro Osram Silverstar lumens:1700±10%, 1075±7% lm

US Sylvania :High 1500 +/- 10%, 910 +/- 10%

[j1016]

Thanks for the info. Based on the differnce, I'm going to put a European osram in. JR

[RT_Jim]

Davis -

Are those numbers for the European Osram 55/60 H4 bulb?

 

From reading the posts, I thought there was an 80/100 Osram bulb but Powerbulb in the UK is saying there is no Osram H$ other than the 55/60. What are people using for 80/100 bulbs?

 

Inquiring minds want to know.....

 

Jim

[BUSTED]

I've used Candlepower # 4840

Max Diamond Blue # DB400 and World Light gold yellow #P43T

 

All purchased at BMW dealers.

Candlepower made in Germany, the others from Korea.

[Davis]

Yes, the Osram numbers were for 55/60W bulbs. As far as 80/100W, I have no recommendation except to stay away from the "super white" or other marketing BS. All the super white or extreme white or whatever bulbs, just have a filter to absorb some of the yellow light giving a whiter appearance with less actual light output.