RT suspension

[dbd]

Hay guys,

when riding two up with luggage my middle stand is dragging at times, guess I need to go on a diet... I have already the cranked the pre-load adjuster all the way up and im still draggin parts....

 

was wondering if any one has changed the spring on the rear shock, to a stiffer spring like one would do for a dirt bike.

 

Just put a stiffer spring on my dirt bike which cost me about $100, and to go to a Ohlins will cost me $900.

 

What are the options.

[Husker Red]

It's more likely that your center stand is sticking and not returning all the way to the upright position. I had that problem with my 2000 RT and I cleaned and lubed it and now it works better.

 

Here is a link from my experience with photos:

Sticking Center Stand

 

Mike

[Husker Red]

BTW - changing out your suspension is probably a good thing too, especially if your bike has over 25,000 miles. However, you cant just change the spring, you have to replace the shock/spring combo on the front and rear. With Ohlins that will probably cost somewhere around $1300. That is a lot of $$$, but just replacing the BMW stock ones would be about $850 (ballpark) and the Ohlins are rebuildable when they die. The stockers are not rebuildable, so you are out $850 again. Shocks seem to last around 25,000-30,000 miles.

 

I replaced my stockers with Ohlins at 25K and now at almost 50K the front one needs to be rebuilt - it's leaking oil. I just got back from an appointment with my local suspension tuner who will rebuild it for $150.

 

Mike

[Davis]

Even with the centerstand returning to its proper resting place, it will drag if you overload the suspension. As far as replacing the spring on the stocker, I don't know of anybody that has tried that. The problem with putting a stiffer spring on the stock shock is that the dampener is only going to last a short time before needing rebuilt anyway. Before looking at a replacement you should check that the preload adjuster is actually working. Watch the collar on the shock and make sure it begins to move as soon as you begin to turn the adjuster.

 

If it isn't a failed preload adjuster and you really want to keep the stock shock, you can call Lindemann Engineering who I think will still rebuild the stock rear shock. I think you'll be surprised at how close the price of having a new spring put on the stock shock and rebuilding/revalving it comes to the cost of a quality aftermarket shock. And you'll still have a ragged out front shock. As far as I know, nobody rebuilds the stock front.

[OoPEZoO]

I had the same problem with my bike ('00 RT). I bought my bike 2 years ago with an Ohlin's suspension already installed by the previous owner. It was OK for riding solo, but I was dragging a LOT when I was fully loaded and riding two up. I would also bottom out quite a bit riding solo when I would hit a bump while conering.

 

Anyway, one day last summer I came across a write up on how to check, and refill the oil level in the rear shock (stock or ohlins's). I disassembled the pre-load adjuster and sure enough......it was dry as a bone. I filled it up with fresh oil, bled the air out of the system, and put it back together. It gave the preadjuster a completely different feel. It used to have no resistance no matter what the setting, now it feels like its actually doing something. Since then its like riding a completely different bike. I still hit my stand once in a while, but only when I'm really pushing it. You might want to do a search for the procedure. It was an easy fix that only took about hour, so its worth a try. I will look for it also, and post up if I can find it again.

[Kurt Snyder]

Do you have a link to the site on rebuilding the preload adjuster? Mine has been seeping and I have not been able to fill it to the top. Any insite would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Kurt

[OoPEZoO]

I don't have it readily saved. I'll have to search for it when I get home tonight.

[bmwmick]

Do you have a link to the site on rebuilding the preload adjuster? Mine has been seeping and I have not been able to fill it to the top. Any insite would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Kurt

 

Kurt,

I believe that was my write-up from a year or two ago. It was deleted. Here is another place to read it:

 

http://www.seatrider.org/techntips/rear%20shock%20preload.htm

 

Mick

[Mark K]

Do you have a link to the site on rebuilding the preload adjuster? Mine has been seeping and I have not been able to fill it to the top. Any insite would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Kurt

 

Kurt,

I believe that was my write-up from a year or two ago. It was deleted. Here is another place to read it:

 

http://www.seatrider.org/techntips/rear%20shock%20preload.htm

 

Mick

 

 

That works great, by the way. I used that procedure once and it made quite a difference. Put some additional miles between my original shocks and a new aftermarket set.

[dbd]

Oopez your right on the money, the preload adjuster is not doing much so Thanks for saving me the cost of a new shock!!!!

[dbd]

Mike

I must be running on borrowed time, I have about 45 maybe 50 k on my 99rt and have not changed suspension, other than the pre load being gone it still rides pretty well.

 

I have an Ohlins rear shoch on my ducati and its a hard ride, don't mind it so much as im not doing 10 hrs in the saddle on the duc, but want the rt to be a bit more civalized.

 

maybe it is time for a front and rear shock?????

[dbd]

Good suggestion on calling LE for shocks. Is it generally recommended for a bike that if you change one you generally change both shocks? makes sense but not sure if this is necessary

 

seems like an adjustable front shock would be a nice upgrade, but not sure if any one makes one.

 

Thanks again to all for the insight!!!!

[dbd]

Mick

thanks a million for the link

[OoPEZoO]

Oopez your right on the money, the preload adjuster is not doing much so Thanks for saving me the cost of a new shock!!!!

 

Sweet, glad to help. Hope that works out for ya. I know it was a night and day change when I refilled mine.

 

BMWMick, thanks......thats the link I was looking for

[Davis]

seems like an adjustable front shock would be a nice upgrade, but not sure if any one makes one

 

I think just about any aftermarket front shock is adjustable for preload and rebound dampening. Compression dampening is usually not adjustable. Likewise, the front's don't have a remote preload, but then again the front sag usually won't change much with luggage or a pillion.

 

If you are avoiding replacing the stock shocks with an aftermarket because the ride is harsh on your Duc with Ohlins, I would suggest you find somebody to help you set up the suspension on the Duc. Did you set the sag properly when you installed it?

[JerryMather]

I have an Ohlins rear shoch on my ducati and its a hard ride, don't mind it so much as im not doing 10 hrs in the saddle on the duc, but want the rt to be a bit more civalized.

 

maybe it is time for a front and rear shock?????

 

This shouldn't be happening with an Ohlins shock. You need to have someone at Kyle Racing help you reset it so your comfortable. Your spring may be the wrong one for your weight.

 

The Duc's frame is very stiff and the ride will be very harsh if the suspension isn't set up correctly for normal road conditions.

Try dailing out most of the compression and rebound damping and go for a ride. Than increase the settings one at a time by two clicks and ride it somemore, repeat this process until it feels right.

You might want to go back to the stock settings first and even they may be to harsh so you'll still need to dial them out a little.

[dbd]

well guys all I got to say is your guys are the bomb! REfilled the preload adjuster on the rear shock in 10 minutes just as you guys said! and apparently the preload adjuster reservoir was about 50% full and not giving any preload ajustment

 

so with some new hydraulic fluid, I just saved 800 clams for a new shock!!

 

as always many thanks, proof that this site DOES save you Money!

[conwaykraM]

Can anyone repost the info about refilling / reworking stock / showa struts ? My '96 1100RT is overdue for some bettervsuspension and I can't afford aftermarket right now. None of the links work any more it looks like

[cburgdof]

Yeah, I can't get the link to open either.

[Michaelr11]

There used to be a link with photos - seems like that is dead.

 

Here's a decent description. Once you do it, it's pretty obvious. Use hydraulic jack oil; if you buy a small bottle it will last forever.

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=19395

 

and another dscription, still no photos:

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8406&highlight=shock+adjuster

[David R]

Some folks seem to mix up shocks with springs. I see them as 2 separate things.

 

The springs hold the bike up and set the sag. The shocks control the springs and bike from getting out of control.

 

Once adjusted, the shocks can be left alone unless the load or driving style is changed.

 

Filling the preload adjuster and setting the sag is just having a misadjusted shock. It sure beats blowing a couple thousand on new Ohlins you may not have needed.

 

 

133,000 miles on the stock shocks on my RT. They are still working like they should. I did replace the front spring and made a shim to adjust the front preload (sag or ride height).

 

Flame away...

 

David

[BriSco]

...133,000 miles on the stock shocks on my RT. They are still working like they should. ...

 

Flame away...

 

David

 

I'm not going to flame you.

 

As long as YOU think those stock shocks are working just as well as new, what anyone else thinks is immaterial.

[eddd]

...133,000 miles on the stock shocks on my RT. They are still working like they should. I did replace the front spring and made a shim to adjust the front preload (sag or ride height).

 

Flame away...

 

David

 

 

No flame. I put lots of miles on my originals. Like most components they deteriorate so slowly that the change is imperceptible. Also contributing to my situation was that I didn't push the bike too hard when riding it. Eventually I switched out the originals with a set of lower mileage stock shocks mostly based on what I had read from other riders with more experience. I used those for many thousands of miles. Finally I got to the point where I figured I might have to invest in an aftermarket suspension. What proved to me beyond any doubt was a ride through Colorado following an R1150RT with Olins. The road was twisty with lots of uneven surfaces and some potholes. Brad, Tobyusa, was the rider in front on the 1150. While he is a very good rider, the thing that became crystal clear was the way his bike handled in the corners and over the rough road surface. His bike was rock steady while mine, at the same speed and following the same line, was wallowing noticably. I installed my Works after that trip. The difference was initially hard to tell since I didn't have a set road I could ride for comparison. I lived in deep south Texas and every road was flat and straight. My first chance to really test the difference came at Torrey on some spirited rides chasing certain hoons at Fish Lake and Huntingon Canyon. I was able to push the bike much harder than I had ever dared before. The wallowing was gone and the suspension simply soaked up road imperfections and held its track.

 

Do I think the stock suspension is total crap like some on the board believe? No. Do I think the stock or any suspension will wear with usage? Absolutely.

 

 

[RPG]

Do you have a link to the site on rebuilding the preload adjuster? Mine has been seeping and I have not been able to fill it to the top. Any insite would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Kurt

 

Kurt,

I believe that was my write-up from a year or two ago. It was deleted. Here is another place to read it:

 

http://www.seatrider.org/techntips/rear%20shock%20preload.htm

 

Mick

 

Great write up. Thanks a lot.

 

Used it on my '04 RT a few years ago and mine too was bone dry. The bike has 51k now (and yes I know I'm on borrowed time) but the suspension does seem to work fine and I don't have a problem with the rear pre-load.

 

 

[Michaelr11]

That link didn't work for me; but this one did:

 

http://www.seatrider.org/archive/techntips/rear%20shock%20preload.htm

 

[Twinsig]

where did you get the ohlins parts?

[conwaykraM]

Thanks for the links!

[conwaykraM]

. . . I did replace the front spring and made a shim to adjust the front preload (sag or ride height).

 

Flame away...

 

David

 

Can you give an idea how to make the shin you refer to?

[David R]

. . . I did replace the front spring and made a shim to adjust the front preload (sag or ride height).

 

Flame away...

 

David

 

Can you give an idea how to make the shin you refer to?

 

I just cut a washer out of 1/16" plate and then one out of 1/8" because the first one did not do enough.

 

Hold on for a link search.

 

Linky

 

HERE

 

All I really did is adjust the sag on a non adjustable shock.

 

Want pictures?

 

I don't know if I posted or not, but I put on a used spring I got from my local BMW repair shop along with the shim. Its been 3 years and 30,000 miles with unchanged results. I still can ride it hard even with a passenger. No wallowing, bouncing or pogoing in the curves if I set it correctly.

 

I have dragged the left peg and never the right. Headed to New Hampshire this weekend on it.

 

David

[conwaykraM]

Yeah - if you have pics that'd be great. Have read your posts from a few years back when you worked on yours. Thanks for that link. Good info on the specs too.

 

Trying to figure this suspension thing out. I can not really afford an aftermarket shock and see no reason to buy one. Bought used front and rear shocks off of newer , less mileage bikes and just installed the rear Friday night. The old shock I took off had no resistance as I screwed in the adjusting knob , until the very bottom. New rear shock has resistance from the first turn. ( I have not installed the new front one yet. I am waiting to install the front till I get in my new stainless steel brake line kit . )

 

There is a 2 mile stretch of road I use as my test track. Some is smooth, some rough washboard and all kinds of pot holes. Rode it after installing the used rear shock think it feels like a better ride. Front still bucks a little when shifting. (Trying to improve my shifting some too) Will see how it feels after new shock is installed in a few weeks. Will keep reading and seeing what I can do to improve it. Thanks again.