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bike wont get out of neutral


giggyboy

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After riding my bike for about a 1/2 hour,the bike got stuck in neutral while shifting gear.I pulled the bike over and still could not get my,`03 1150rt, into any gear.Has anyone had this problem before?

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You're probably way past this, but the 1150 trans often needs to be double-clutched to sync the tranny before it will leave neutral. Sorry if this is irrelevant to your current situation.

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It Happened while I was riding about 45 mph,all of a sudden as I was changing gears,it seemed like it slipped somewhere in the middle of the gears,the engine just revved and I tried to up/down shift but nothing.The bike would not engage into any gear.I pulled over ,Tried shifting the foot lever, Nothing.I looked under the bike,all looked connected.Rolled down the hill,tried to change gears,nothing. frown.gif

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Is the bike making any odd noises? Was shifting difficult before this happened? I am sorry to say that I think you may have suffered a transmission input shaft spline failure.

 

I would check the linkages first but I fear the worst.

Andy

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No,Gears made no grinding or any sound what so ever.As I was shifting ,and it shifted with ease,it`s seemed like it just went into neutral.

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Joe Frickin' Friday
It Happened while I was riding about 45 mph,all of a sudden as I was changing gears,it seemed like it slipped somewhere in the middle of the gears,the engine just revved and I tried to up/down shift but nothing.

 

What does the gear indicator display? Does it show the various gears as you attempt to shift up or down, or is it truly stuck on "N", or something else?

 

If the indicator shows that you are shifting through gears, but you can't transmit power from engine to wheel, you may have shredded the input shaft splines. This is bad news.

 

If the indicator shows that you are stuck in a gear (or between gears, as "E" or "N"), then you may just have a loose shift linkage. Check the foot lever's pivot, and check the ball-and-socket link that connects the footlever to the lever on the gearbox.

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The gear indicator display moves up and down through the gears but the engine remains in nuetral,I have about 24000 miles on the bike.Never had a problem with the gears.

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The gear indicator display moves up and down through the gears but the engine remains in nuetral,I have about 24000 miles on the bike.Never had a problem with the gears.

 

Sorry bncry.gif, sounds like the dreaded clutch $plines / input $haft, no longer turn together problem. Does it make a whizzing noise when you try to start off? Can you freely roll the bike when the tranny is in a gear and the clutch out with engine off?

Cheers Steve

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The gear indicator display moves up and down through the gears but the engine remains in nuetral,I have about 24000 miles on the bike.Never had a problem with the gears.
Ouch! Not what I first thought you were describing. Indeed sounds suspiciously like a spline failure, but at any rate the bike is going to have to be split to see what's up. Sorry dude.
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I wonder how much it costs to CNC an oilhead input shaft? After seeing so many of these threads I'm thinking that it might be a profitable line of business... crazy.gif

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Sounds a lot like the rubber isolator in the driveshaft failed. MUCH cheaper fix too. smile.gif

 

Mick

Certainly a possibility, usually a DS failure is accompanied by a lot of clunk around noise. O.P. - Any of that noticed?

 

Regardless I guess, as the bike comes apart the FD and DS are one of the first things, so a DS failure should become self-evident.

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Sounds a lot like the rubber isolator in the driveshaft failed. MUCH cheaper fix too. smile.gif

 

Mick

Certainly a possibility, usually a DS failure is accompanied by a lot of clunk around noise. O.P. - Any of that noticed?

 

Regardless I guess, as the bike comes apart the FD and DS are one of the first things, so a DS failure should become self-evident.

 

Ken,

If the rubber isolator came apart, there is no real noise, just this quiet Zzzzzzzzzz as the driveshaft spins in the rubber. Sounds just like an electric motor.

 

Mick

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Well-- I'm most of the way through an input shaft spline failure repair on my 1150GS. Mine failed at 12,700 miles, but since it is an '02 I was out of warranty for time. I chose to replace the transmission with a low mileage used transmission (6500 miles)beacuse of the discussion I have seen about misalignment of the transmission to the engine being a potential cause of the failure.

 

I will be into it for about $1130 as a DIY repair.

 

Used transmission $850

Rear drive unit pivot bearings $60

Clutch disc about $150

New torque wrench $90 (on-sale needed one to handle 160nM)

Tools don't count in the total!

 

Oh, yes- couldn't thread the gear position indicator switch connector through the wiring harness mess that Fritz left on a Friday or Monday- had to cut the wire- didn't want a spliced wire- $70

 

If you hire the dealer to do it out of warranty expect:

 

About 6 to 8 hrs labor for the R&R on the transmission.

 

$200 to $250 for a new input shaft.

 

Clutch disc $150.

 

Maybe clutch plate, pressure plate, diaphram spring. (Mine were good.)

 

About 4 Hours for the labor on R&R on the input shaft.

 

The dealer reapir could approach $2000.

 

 

Photos of the clutch and input shaft with the failed splines are at:

 

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207014

 

Good luck, hope it is something simple and not the splines!

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Sounds a lot like the rubber isolator in the driveshaft failed. MUCH cheaper fix too. smile.gif

 

Mick

The Dreaded Rubber Dampener Thingy and only $800 dopeslap.gif.Did you Know ,BMW stands for BRING MY WALLET lmao.gif
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Sounds a lot like the rubber isolator in the driveshaft failed. MUCH cheaper fix too. smile.gif

 

Mick

The Dreaded Rubber Dampener Thingy and only $800 dopeslap.gif.Did you Know ,BMW stands for BRING MY WALLET lmao.gif
better than splines ... grin.gif

 

Congratulations Mick on the one and only correct diagnosis thumbsup.gif

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Stan Walker

The Dreaded Rubber Dampener Thingy and only $800

 

The best way to save money on BMW repairs is to do them yourself.

 

$396.00 from Chicago BMW for a new driveshaft. Of course you have to supply your own labor. I would guess about 2 or 3 hours to install. $400 in your pocket.

 

Stan

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Congratulations Mick on the one and only correct diagnosis thumbsup.gif

 

clap.gifclap.gif So what did I win? lmao.giflmao.giflmao.gif

 

Free lunch at Gig's cafe? lmao.gif :rofl He's just up in Flagstaff...that's only 300 miles north if I come up from Tucson the back way. smile.gif

 

Mick

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How about we ride up to Mt. Lemmon Next time I`m down Tucson way,Then Dinner at Mcmahon`s.(That could cost as much as the splines) dopeslap.gif

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How about we ride up to Mt. Lemmon Next time I`m down Tucson way,Then Dinner at Mcmahon`s.(That could cost as much as the splines) dopeslap.gif

 

McMahon's is a little 'foo-foo' for us. smile.gif Steaks from AJ's grilled at home is more our style.

 

Mt Lemmon is getting REALLY bad....one of the guys at Iron Horse just got a '45-in-a-35' ticket just BELOW the pay station. SO it's getting a bit ridiculous up there.

 

Are you going to get a driveshaft mailorder or let the dealer do it? What dealer?

 

Mick

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The Dreaded Rubber Dampener Thingy and only $800

 

The best way to save money on BMW repairs is to do them yourself.

 

$396.00 from Chicago BMW for a new driveshaft. Of course you have to supply your own labor. I would guess about 2 or 3 hours to install. $400 in your pocket.

 

Stan

As Mr Scott, from "Star Trek" would say,"I`m only a cook, not a bloody Bmw mechanic". smirk.gif On My old BMW 1968 R/69 (my favorit bike of all time)I could take that bike apart and put it back together fairly easy.The 1150RT is a different monster, a bit harder,I have no tools and no time and no patience.So I Must pay for someone to do the dirty work for me,Sucks for me. frown.gifdopeslap.gif

829073-MrScott.jpg.1c9e78b983c50ef230669db3f04a6d6e.jpg

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