ABS Self Check Failure

[ncsonderman]

I just put my Rt. Footrest plate back on last night and everything worked well functionally. I fired her up this morning and rode into work and the bike never went through it's ABS self test as normal. The indicator lights were yelling at me the whole way (4 miles) in.

 

Clues:

 

When checking my tire pressure, I noticed that the rear brake seemed to rub the rotor a little more than I can remember (It's been a month that she was apart).

 

I blew compressed air over the bike to get the sawdust from crevices and the body work that was attached prior to reassembly as well. I really didn't use too much PSI or get close to the ABS sensors I don't believe.

 

 

I'm leaving for Daytona in the wee hours tomorrow morning. Anyone ever had and diagnosed this problem following a similar simple procedure like this?

 

Thanks for any help you can give!

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Is your brake light staying on? Check the limit switch at the brake pedal, make sure that's shutting off properly when the brake is properly released. Note that the problem may be with lever travel.

[ncsonderman]

That was one of the things that I aimed to check at lunch. I did not adjust the travel though, so I wasn't sure if it would be affected.

 

Thanks

[bmwmick]

That was one of the things that I aimed to check at lunch. I did not adjust the travel though, so I wasn't sure if it would be affected.

 

Thanks

 

Joe,

Is this on your '97 RT? Do the lights flash alternately as soon as you turn the ignition on? If so you have a 'stored' fault and you should read out the fault codes before you attempt to reset it.

 

Mick

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

That was one of the things that I aimed to check at lunch. I did not adjust the travel though, so I wasn't sure if it would be affected.

 

Thanks

 

Joe,

Is this on your '97 RT? Do the lights flash alternately as soon as you turn the ignition on? If so you have a 'stored' fault and you should read out the fault codes before you attempt to reset it.

 

Mick

 

Whoops, didn't see the 1100; I assumed it was the 1150, on which the ABS won't initialize after key-on until both brakes are fully UNapplied. The 1100 of course doesn't care either way.

 

Indeed, if it's the 1100, read/interpret the fault code and let us know what you find.

[ncsonderman]

Yep, it's the 97.

 

I think I remember the lights flashing alternately. I'll check when I ride home at lunch. As for the fault codes, I'm assuming I need some sort of special tool to read that code?

 

Thanks

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Yep, it's the 97.

As for the fault codes, I'm assuming I need some sort of special tool to read that code?

 

Absolutely not; that's one of the great things about the 1100's versus the 1150's. All you need is an analog voltmeter, or a DVM/DMM with a bar gauge on the display.

 

click here, go to page 71 and 72 to find out how to read and interpret the error codes from the ABS computer via the diagnostic connector under the seat just behind the fuse box.

 

let us know what you find.

[Davis]

All you need to read the code is an LED and a resistor

 

see Anton or the ABS section of IBMWR's K-tech

[bmwmick]

Just a 12V LED and two short pieces of wire is all you need.

 

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2110

 

Follow the instructions.

 

Mick

[ncsonderman]

Thanks Mick, Mitch, and Davis. I've printed out and read the links and hope to:

1. Check to see at which point the lights alternate when I head out for lunch.

 

2. Pick up an LED at Radio Shack on my way home. I guess I could try my digital voltmeter, but if it doesnt' register the dips quick enough...

 

3. Take the tupperware of after work and check.

 

4. Let you all know what is faulty. (I'm leaning toward a low battery since the bike sat for about a month before firing it up this morning.) I'm crossing my fingers and toes.

 

Thanks again.

[ncsonderman]

ABS Self Check Failure... Episode II

Crossing my toes seems to be a pretty good tool as the ABS checked out fine going home for lunch. It seems that a low battery was the cause of the problem.

 

Now for the episode II part of the post...

Backing into my parking alcove at work, I noticed that my taillight was reflecting brightly off of the dark walls. To be sure I wasn't seeing things, I switched the ignition off and dismounted. I spanned my gorilla arms to be able to turn the ignition on and work the brake lever with my left hand and see the reflection of the light intensity change on my right hand.

 

Problem: As soon as I turned the ignition key to the on position, my LED brakelight strobed and both my taillights remained burning brightly.

 

At this point I am thinking that I installed the switch improperly. I put the flat switch feeler under the footrest plate where the brake pedal adjuster comes into contact with it. Did I get that backward?

[bmwmick]

At this point I am thinking that I installed the switch improperly. I put the flat switch feeler under the footrest plate where the brake pedal adjuster comes into contact with it. Did I get that backward?

 

I think you have it installed backwards. The little arm should be held ABOVE the brake lever until you depress the pedal. Quick fix!!

 

Mick

[ncsonderman]

I do have the arm flush on the bottom side of the footrest plate. Just looking at it it seems that it's in the right position, but it was 2:30 AM for the second nightn in a row. I'll fiddle with it after work.

[ncsonderman]

Crawled under the bike in the garage and everything looks well. (except for the brake lights staying on!)

 

With the key in the on position, I manipulated the foot pedal down and the light stays on. That is the good part because that is supposed to happen. The thin metal arm that acts as a lever to activate the light is not putting enough pressure to set the switch to the off position.

 

I know, I know... probably the switch. Not so! I can manually press the lever/arm near the switch to make the brake light switch to the off position. Audible click (aside from the light changing )

 

Any suggestions? I've got to leave in about 10 hours and don't think it's safe to ride with the tail light blazing all of the time.

 

Thanks, a frustrated Joe

[bmwmick]

Bend the lever to exert more pressure? I would disconnect the switch before riding it like that if you can't fix it. The front brake switch will warn following traffic you are stopping but to have it ON all the time, will be confusing and 'may' melt the socket.

 

Mick

[ncsonderman]

Bending the lever is what I had in mind, but wanted someone else to suggest it before I just gorilla'd it.

 

I'll give an update in about 10 minutes.

[BUSTED]

Read your pm's!

[ncsonderman]

Problem solved by bending the lever.

 

FWIW, the footrest plate can be taken off without removing the tupperware.

 

Off to Daytona we go.

 

Stay tuned for Episode III, in which long distance travellers must escape notice of the evil empire of LAW ENFORCERS who try and slow interstate travel....

 

Thanks to all, and to all a good night.