ABS Fault on 1100RT

[tbloomq]

My 2000 R1100RT has just starting giving me an ABS fault before starting the bike. Both lights flash alternately. After pressing the ABS switch the bottom one stays lit.

 

I have an Oddessy battery that's less than a year old. It was on the battery tender until this morning's ride. The ride was uneventful. I had just finished a 10 mile ride on the highway, got off the exit ramp, had to stop the engine (turned off the key, etc.) and check what had blown off. Once I restarted the engine, the ABS lights started to flash. Drove off and then stopped and restarted again. Still flashing.

 

I can hear the ABS relay clicking. What else should I check? I put it back on the battery tender to see if that changes anything.

 

Was there another thread on this? I searched but couldn't find one.

 

Tom

[Husker Red]

got off the exit ramp, had to stop the engine (turned off the key, etc.) and check what had blown off.

I don't understand this part. Something flew off the bike?

[tbloomq]

It's red herring. I had a cover on a saddlebag that flew off when I was cruising.

 

It was not part of the BMW parts list.

 

Tom

[milesandmiles]

My ABS faults every now and then as well. I've got the instructions to reset it on my bike but I won't get home until Wed night. If no one else responds by then I'll add my 2 cents, but I'm sure you'll get an answer by then.

[Husker Red]

I think you are doing the right thing by making sure the battery is fully charged. Perhaps a longer ride to have the alternator charge up the battery - in case there is a problem with the tender.

 

I occasionally get ABS faults when I pull out of my driveway. It is sloped so I have to use the brakes as the ABS self-tests and I think that might cause the occasional fault. Was the exit ramp you stopped on sloped?

 

It is also possible to check the ABS fault code using the diagnostic plug under the seat and a voltmeter. When you turn on the key it will give you a number of on/off pulses that gives you the fault number. It is easiest to read those with an analog voltmeter - digital ones don't work well for that. I don't remember the exact procedure but I'm sure we can find it here with a search of "ABS fault codes."

 

Mike

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

click here, go to page 71 and 72 to find out how to read and interpret the error codes from the ABS computer via the diagnostic connector under the seat just behind the fuse box.

 

let us know what you find.

[AndyT]

It could be a low battery even if you had the battery tender hooked up. My battery tender(s) each have blown the in line fuse on the tender line to the bike. So I thought I was charging when I really wasn't! Takes a bladed 4 or 5 amp fuse. Could also be a bad or dirty connection of the battery to the terminals i.e. battery cables, loose or not properly connected??? Just thoughts on stuff that I have had trouble with before!

[harleyjohn45]

i'm new to bmw. but my 2000 1100rt flashes almost all the time. the only way i can stop it is to restart the bike. if i waste any time in the starting procedure, then its sure to flash. if i start the bike and do not immediately drive away, then it flashes. i think the system is too sensitive because many one on this forum has issues with it.

actually its a very annoying feature, i guess my question is "is abs worth all this hassel" i suppose a 70 mile ride should have the battery charged up enough, but it still flashes.

[GordonB]

One thing to consider is your battery tender. Is it an authentic BT, designed for the AGM nature of the Odessey battery? If not and it's just a trickle charger you can do harm to your AGM battery creating the low voltage faults...my 2 cents.

[harleyjohn45]

since i only recently bought the bike and i don't know how old the battery is, i think i will go get a new battery. i do leave it on a tender and i just drove it 140 miles today. i got home and shut it off (because it does not idle on the sidestand) to open my gate. when i started it up 15 seconds later, the light started flashing again. now i call that sensitive. about 3 or 4 times i would turn the bike off and then quickly restart it and the lights would work as they should.

[alremc]

I just picked up my 98 RT this past weekend and I am having the same issue. I charged the gel cell batt with the tender and it still flashes. The only way I can get it to go off is by riding and SAFELY and clear, while coasting, turn the bike off and re-start the bike and all is well after that UNITL the next start. I am not getting the warm and fuzzy from my new toy and so far having a lil buyers remorse. Also have the front brake lever sticking even after cleaning and oilin! Oh well, keep on trying and having fun!

[boatzo]

Harleyjohn, I rode a Harley for years and now have my 1st BMW. There is a lot of technology in these bikes and I have learned to love it. Doubt I will ever go back.

 

As for the ABS indicators, there was a good thread on this some time back, but I can't remember where it is. I do recall that someone said to turn on the ignition and wait a short time before starting the bike. This gives the system a chance to do its self check. Then when starting off you will hear the relay clunk and the lights should go out. I had problems at first and after reading that thread, I pause before starting and have never had the problem since. You may want to try that before buying a new battery.

 

Give your beemer a chance and learn its little quirks (for lack of a better term), I'll bet a 6 pack you will fall in love with it.

[VinnyR11]

The solution in the prior post has worked for me every time for years. Turning the key to "on" and waiting a few seconds (I wait for the ABS light to blink 4 times) and then starting allows the ABS light to reset every time on my '96 RT. If I don't do this, the ABS light stays on.

[glwestcott]

Although your battery is relatively new, it still may be the culprit. The ABS is very sensitive to low voltage. Your battery may show fully charged at 13.2 volts at rest, but under load may drop too low and the ABS won't set.

 

Try this:

 

Once you have fully charged the battery, use a voltmeter and put the probes into the accessory plug on your bike. You will obviously have to hold them in. Then hit the starter. You are looking for a drop in voltage to no less than perhaps 11.8 or 11.9 volts. If you go down much further when the starter is hit, the battery is lacking capacity and is need of replacement. This over-drop is why the ABS brakes sometimes fail to set even when the battery is left on the charger overnight. There just isn't enough oomph left in the battery.

[GaryBrod]

I recently had this same issue with my 2000 R1100Rt. It started one day when the lights flashed alternately when I turned the key on. After starting and riding 25 miles, I shut it off, turned on the key and the lights immediately were alternating. Thought it was the battery (mine was only 7 years and 1 month old, isn't that almost new????? he he). Well, I put in a new battery that I charged before installation and still have the same problem. I found a thread a couple days ago and now know how to get the fault code out of the bike. I also will try the reset. Hope it isn't anything too costly.

[harleyjohn45]

Harleyjohn, I rode a Harley for years and now have my 1st BMW. There is a lot of technology in these bikes and I have learned to love it. Doubt I will ever go back.

 

As for the ABS indicators, there was a good thread on this some time back, but I can't remember where it is. I do recall that someone said to turn on the ignition and wait a short time before starting the bike. This gives the system a chance to do its self check. Then when starting off you will hear the relay clunk and the lights should go out. I had problems at first and after reading that thread, I pause before starting and have never had the problem since. You may want to try that before buying a new battery.

 

Give your beemer a chance and learn its little quirks (for lack of a better term), I'll bet a 6 pack you will fall in love with it.

 

 

i'm trying to learn this bike. i still ride harleys and suzuki's, and ducati's. none of them have as many issues as the bmw. actually the rt handles great, so does the suzuki and ducati. that said the harley has less maintenance problems. i do not give up easily and i would like to get the abs stabilized before heading up to dillsboro for the el paseo meet in april. otherwise i will ride up there with flashing lights, i will look like the highway patrol. lol

[tbloomq]

Ordered a voltmeter today. Tried the manual reset and it didn't clear the problem.

 

I'm 99% sure that it isn't the battery. The lights start to alternatively flash the instant the ignition is on. The genuine brand new Battery Tender fully charged the battery in less than 10 minutes.

 

I've taken it to the local shop. I'll let you know what they find. I wish it would rain so I feel vindicated that its in the shop.

 

Tom

[Husker Red]

My ABS unit actually went out on my 2000 RT a couple of years ago. I tried all the stuff we are discussing here and eventually brought it to two different shops. Both agreed it was the ABS unit. That little bugger is expensive - I believe it would have been over $1000 installed. I said no thanks, I've lived without ABS for a long time. After all, the brakes still WORK, you just don't have ABS.

 

I managed to find a used ABS unit at the beemer boneyard for about $300 and installed it myself but until then I "fixed" the flashing light problem with a bit of black electrical tape to cover the offending lights. $1.00 fix, and those lights didn't bother me at all anymore.

[bmwmick]

Ordered a voltmeter today. Tried the manual reset and it didn't clear the problem.

 

I'm 99% sure that it isn't the battery. The lights start to alternatively flash the instant the ignition is on. The genuine brand new Battery Tender fully charged the battery in less than 10 minutes.

 

I've taken it to the local shop. I'll let you know what they find. I wish it would rain so I feel vindicated that its in the shop.

 

Tom

 

Tom,

Take a look at the error BEFORE you reset it. You probably have one stored if the lights flash in an alternating pattern BEFORE you punch the starter button.

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2110&sid=3f8f7dbfce5168c6502330f1cdee7645

 

You CAN prevent the low voltage fault too:

http://ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/ABS-II_low_voltage_modification/index.shtml

 

Mick

[tbloomq]

Thanks all for your help. Here was the issue and fix --

 

There was a problem with the front ABS sensor and the bike had a fault stored that would go away. We went through the GT-1 steps for diagnostics and ran a bunch of tests on the brake system and finally got the fault to clear the lights went out and the ABS is operational again. The ABS sensor has a little scrape in it perhaps a pebble got lodged in it or something but is doesn’t appear to be damaged beyond operation…so the bike is ready to go

 

Tom

[bmwmick]

Tom,

IF that problem comes back, disconnect the sensor and measure it with an Ohmmeter while flexing all the bend-points on the cable. The sensor should measure approximately 135Ohms.

 

Mick

[tbloomq]

Has anyone seen a BMW Service Bulletin for the front ABS sensor cable being installed incorrectly (too tightly strapped) leading to failures when turning right? This bulletin pertains to 2000 and 2001 RT's. That might be the cause of my continuing problem.

 

They thought they fixed it but when I picked up the RT, it failed exactly as before, before I got out of the dealer's lot. Me thinks they forget to really test drive it.

 

Tom

[bmwmick]

Has anyone seen a BMW Service Bulletin for the front ABS sensor cable being installed incorrectly (too tightly strapped) leading to failures when turning right? This bulletin pertains to 2000 and 2001 RT's. That might be the cause of my continuing problem.

 

Tom,

The only SI I've seen for that time period is the sensor clearance SI. 0.45-0.55mm gap at the widest point. Nothing about a cable tie being too tight.

 

You can still just put a meter on it and flex the cable to see if you can recreate the condition. The sensor should measure 135 Ohms disconnected from the harness.

 

There WAS a recall for wiring harness problems on R850 and R1100R models. The main harness was strapped too tightly to the frame and repeated turning to the lock-stop caused broken wires. NHTSA Recall 97V-237 .

 

Mick