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Running Aux Lights off of Euroswitch


Francis

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I have a 2002 R1150RT and want to run a set of PIAA FF50 aux lights off of a Euroswitch. I want to have the aux lights run off of the top position on the switch. I would appreciate a wiring tutorial (please use wire colors) on how to adapt this switch to run the aux lights. With this set-up I could "thumb up" to the aux lights and "thum down" to the standard low beam light without taking my hands of of the grips.

 

Thanks

 

Francis

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I'm not quite following you.

 

The euro-switch is a three-position switch: Off, Parking, Parking & headlight.

It's not an up/down sort of thing, it's a towards the steering head, away from the steering head sort of thing.

 

Yes, it has been wired to control aux lighting, but you'll have to provide the requirements: what exactly do you want it to do? and what about Highs/lows?

 

For example:

You can wire fogs in to the switch, so that they only come on when LOW beams are on, and the switch is in position 2 or 3.

You can wire fogs and driving lights, such that:

Switch 0 = no aux lights

Switch 1 = fogs w/ low beams only

Switch 2 = fogs w/ low beams, driving w/ high beams

or several other combinations.

 

Search through my old posts, there was a thread on this, where I posted some pictures. Tracy (?) I think also has the pictures w/ the write-up on his site about the RT-P models.

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russell_bynum
I'm not quite following you.

 

The euro-switch is a three-position switch: Off, Parking, Parking & headlight.

It's not an up/down sort of thing, it's a towards the steering head, away from the steering head sort of thing.

 

The 1150 has a different switch design than the 1100.

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russell_bynum
I have a 2002 R1150RT and want to run a set of PIAA FF50 aux lights off of a Euroswitch. I want to have the aux lights run off of the top position on the switch. I would appreciate a wiring tutorial (please use wire colors) on how to adapt this switch to run the aux lights. With this set-up I could "thumb up" to the aux lights and "thum down" to the standard low beam light without taking my hands of of the grips.

 

Thanks

 

Francis

 

The Euroswitch has three positions. From the factory, they are:

No lights

Parking Lights only.

Parking lights and headlight.

 

What would you like the three positions to do on your bike?

 

A common choice is:

No lights

Parking lights and headlight

Parking lights, headlights, aux lights (PIAA, Hella, etc)

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To add to Russell the switch is just a on off trigger.

Do not connect the aux lights directly to the switch wiring. Melties!

You need to go through relays with main power from battery.

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Russell,

 

I would like the 3-position set-up you posted. No lights, parking and low-beam, parking/low-beam/aux. I had this set-up on my R1100RT and want the same on my R1150RT.

 

Do you, or anyone else, know how to wire this on the 1150RT Euroswitch? I'm electrically challenges so a step-by-step with wire colors would be most helpful.

 

Francis

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russell_bynum
Russell,

 

I would like the 3-position set-up you posted. No lights, parking and low-beam, parking/low-beam/aux. I had this set-up on my R1100RT and want the same on my R1150RT.

 

Do you, or anyone else, know how to wire this on the 1150RT Euroswitch? I'm electrically challenges so a step-by-step with wire colors would be most helpful.

 

Francis

 

Check out This page on the Motorcycle FAQ on this site.

 

I don't know if the wire colors/function are the same on the 1150 version or not, but that would be a good place to start.

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The 1150 "Euro" switch, as is, will not do this. BUT if you are willing to do some cutting and splicing of wires, it can be modified. I did it on our '02 R1150RT when we had it, and I still have the schematic somewhere I believe. I'll dig it up tonight.

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Here is the modification I did of the Euro-switch on our R1150RT when we had it.

 

This particular configuration sets up three positions for the switch: Down - the auxiliary lights are never on, middle - they come on when the bike's factory high beam is turned on, top - they come on regardless.

 

Note that there are two parts to this, the cutting of three of the wires between the switch (W/Y, GRN/BLK and GRY/BLU) and using them for the new function, and secondly the splicing the other cut end (going toward the connector) of the three cut wires to each other. The later is necessary to maintain the factory headlight's functioning. The 'jumper' connector that is on the bike's wiring harness in place of the switch assembly is then removed and discarded, and the modified Euro-switch connected in its place. Please also notice the mandatory diode in the diagram.

 

If this is not the specific functionality configuration you are looking for, I'm sure I can work something else up.

 

14833179-L.jpg

 

19879781-M.jpg

 

14761615-M.jpg

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After seeing Ken's diagram, I see the wire colors match the 1100 switch. For the setup the original poster wants:

0-All off

1-Stock lights

2-Stock + Aux lights

 

On the Euroswitch harness, strip some of the insulation off the WHT/YEL wire (or cut the wire and connect the two ends back together, if you want to heat shrink the connection). Cut the BLU/GRY wire, connect the end of the BLU/GRY wire which comes from the plug to the WHT/YEL wire. Connect the switch end of the BLU/GRY wire to the Aux light relay.

 

If that isn't clear enough, I can draw it up for you.

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Davis, Ken thanks for the feedback. Ken, is there a certain size or specification for the diode? Does it go inline in any specific order or polarity? Does it need to be shielded?

 

Davis, if you could do a diagram that would be a plus to your written instructions. Does your approach require a diode as did Ken's?

 

Francis

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is there a certain size or specification for the diode?
Not particularly. Most any 1A 600V PIV diode will do. It's only purpose is to prevent reverse fed of the low beam circuit to the high beam one.
Does it go inline in any specific order or polarity?
Yes, it has to be in the circuit as drawn.
Does it need to be shielded?
No.

 

The main difference between Davis's approach and mine I believe is mine leaves the original always on low beam function in tack. So as to keep in compliance with U.S. bike headlight laws. I.e. you can't run totally dark, which if I understand it right, Davis's mode will allow.

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Francis,

 

It's a good thing you had me draw it. I had the parking light and headlight colors backwards in my first post. dopeslap.gif

 

You should be cutting the WHT/YEL wire and connecting your relay to one end of it and connecting the other end to the BLU/GRY wire. Stock the switch powers nothing in the off position, the BLU/GRY wire, which goes to the parking lights, in the middle position and powering both the BLU/GRY and WHT/YEL (which goes to the headlight) in the top position. You are cutting the headlight wire and connecting the headlight circuit to the parking lights and your aux lights to the headlight position on the switch.

 

It's true that this mod still leaves the off position as off. That can be a good thing if your alternator (or belt) fails and you're trying to limp somewhere. It also has the advantage that the only wires that you need to mess with are on the switch harness, so there are less connections to fail and it's easy to go back to stock should you ever want to. You don't need any diodes, but you can only turn the aux lights on and off, there is no setting for them to dip with the high beam.

 

 

Here's the diagram, if Ken's diagram is right the pin #'s on the Euroswitch plug have changed. What I have labeled 3 is 11 on the 1150 plug and what I have labeled 4 is 12 on the 1150.

 

 

134314999-M.jpg

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Davis,

 

What you have drawn looks closer to the sswitch I have. My switch has two plugs. A large plug with 4 leads and a smaller plug with 2 leads. Based upon my switch description, which wiring approach should I use since you have two descriptions as to plug location numbers in the written description of your post?

 

Thanks again,

 

Francis

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Unfortunately, I can't tell you for sure the correct pin numbers. I have a 1100 and the #'s on the diagram I drew are for the 1100 switch. The numbers in the text came from referencing Ken's diagram for the 1150, but looking at his photo, he has a single plug as well. Since the light switch has 3 wires, I'm betting they are all in the 4 pin plug. Does the 4 pin plug have the correct color wires going to it?

 

The switch Ken drew is functionally the same as the one I drew. My drawing includes the entire switch, his just has the light switch and ignores the TS switch. As far as which to use, if you want to be able to have the lights go off with the high beam use Ken's. If you don't need to have the lights controlled by the high beam, there is no reason to go to the trouble of tapping the high beam wire and connecting the diode.

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