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Correct Way to start a 98 R1100RT


Dandridge

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Hello everyone. I did not get the operators manuel for my RT-P when I bought and was wondering if anyone could give me the correct way to start the bike. Thanks for the help. Dan thumbsup.gif

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Gee Dan,

I think it's straight forward; with bike on center stand, transmission in neutral, move fast idle lever (looks like a choke, is on left handle bar) forward all the way (assuming its first start of the day), turn ignition key all the way to the right (be sure kill switch on right handlebar is in center/run position) and push starter button. I'd twist throttle (only a little) if no immediate start of motor and if after five second or so no start, well, stop draining the battery and begin thinking of what's wrong (hopefully, you don't get there).

I understand the "authority" bikes (of which your RT-P is one) doesn't require center stand or side stand with clutch pulled in, yet to keep things simple, I'd follow the above advice, i.e., on center stand, trans in neutral.

Lastly, don't let bike sit & run with fast idle lever for any length of time as it creates plastic melting heat; rather, ride off within thirty seconds or so if not sooner.

Good luck,

Wooster

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Joe Frickin' Friday
Gee Dan,

I think it's straight forward; with bike on center stand, transmission in neutral, move fast idle lever (looks like a choke, is on left handle bar) forward all the way (assuming its first start of the day), turn ignition key all the way to the right (be sure kill switch on right handlebar is in center/run position) and push starter button. I'd twist throttle (only a little) if no immediate start of motor and if after five second or so no start, well, stop draining the battery and begin thinking of what's wrong (hopefully, you don't get there).

 

All good, but in cold weather it's helpful to hold the clutch in while cranking; this way the starter and battery aren't struggling to also spin the gearbox. Clutch can be released after the engine actually fires, and you'll hear the RPM's bog just a bit with the additional load.

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In addition to Mitch's good advice about decreasing load on starter by disconnecting trans via pulling in clutch while starting, I've one more (minor) suggestion, namely, wait a few seconds (5 ?) after turning ignition key prior to pushing starter button as the ABS system needs a few seconds to "settle down" prior to motor starting.

 

Wooster with memories of many ABS faults due to pushing starter button too quickly

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Dan,

I have a slightly different method. It has worked where the 'normal' procedure above has failed for some of my riding buddies.

Ignition on, clutch disengaged, cold start (fast idle) lever fully OFF. Crank till it fires and then immediately push the fast idle lever to the first or second detent to keep it running. The fully closed throttle helps to atomize the mixture. I've had this work on my '96 R1100RT every time.

I think the throttle plates being closed reduces the amount of air so it provides a slightly richer mixture too.

Experiment with the different procedures to see what works best for YOUR bike.

 

Mick

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if anyone could give me the correct way to start the bike.

 

Like Mick says...the correct way is the way that works best for that particular bike.

 

You can try this..

 

After bike has reached road riding temp..

Set fast idle to detent position and adust to 2300RPM

 

The next cold start push lever to second position and crank for 3 seconds.

If bike hasn't already started, set to detent position and crank again. (don't use any additional throttle at either time)

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For what it's worth...

My 1999 used to like a two step. Fast idle on at first detent; clutch in; hit starter button for about 0.2 seconds; release starter; wait for starter motor to spin down; hit starter again; it fires up immediately.

 

Lately, it seems willing to start on the first punch of the starter button. This may be related to the fact that I don't use the fast idle lever anymore (another topic). Maybe Mick is right.

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If it is really cold, as in the thirties, I use the second position on the "choke" otherwise, I place the fast start lever in the first detent except during the summer months. It is a bad practice to open the throttle on any fuel injected vehicle when starting. Also, don't spin the starter more than about 10 seconds because the battery will run down very quickly if the bike has been sitting longer than a few days. Starting the bike without the fast idle on and then putting it in the first detent to keep it from stalling is a good technique as well. The engine should not be warmed up by idling. Just start it up give it a minute to get the oil flowing to all the engine parts and then drive off slowly keeping the revs down but being sure not to lug the engine. Once you have 4 bars you are good to go.

 

Congrats on your purchase.

 

clap.gif

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The best i found , and it works everytime , cold motor , open choke lever , crank motor 1 second , let sit till the fuel pump spools up, hit button , motor starts , drive off and turn off choke lever. Dont know why this works , just know it starts faster, with less wear on starter, and battery.

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