bmweerman Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 My 1100RT mysteriously stalled 5 miles from home 2 days ago.. Then mysteriously fixed itself Yesterday it died about 5 miles from home again....this time a fuel pump fuse changed fixed it and it ran all day. This morning we were supposed to leave for an important assignment and it fired up fine. Then died while idling never to start again...I have done everything I know to do. Any ideas? Thanks! Link to comment
Steve W. Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 Big clue !!"this time a fuel pump fuse changed fixed it and it ran all day". If the fuse was blown and blown again this looks like the fuel pump has packed it in. Cheers Steve Link to comment
bmweerman Posted February 25, 2007 Author Share Posted February 25, 2007 I don't know if this is a clue or not, but when I make an attempt to start it one of the relays buzzes immediately after. Sound like anything? Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 When was the last time you changed the fuel filter and have you gotten gas at any but your normal stations? A clogged fuel filter will overload the fuel pump very quickly. It'll work for awhile but won't get better. Link to comment
bmweerman Posted February 26, 2007 Author Share Posted February 26, 2007 Changed the fuel filter recently...actually had someone come over and help me trouble shoot and it is either the motronic module or the hall effec sesnor. Is there anyway to diagnose beyond that point withought just replacing the parts and see what works? Thanks Cameron Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 Difficult to do a dynamic check of the HES without an oscilloscope or a really fast multimeter. I assume his diagnosis was the result of measuring the voltage to the fuel pump? Should energize for about 2 seconds if the bike is in neutral when you switch on the ignition. Should energize and remain energized when the bike is cranking. Output from the HES is what keeps it energized. One of those two sensors provides a pulse for the ignition, the other pulse is used to maintain, through the Motronic, the fuel pump relay in the on state. So, if the fuel pump runs while cranking, it is probably not the Motronic or the HES. Did you verify that the interlocks are all working properly? Side stand switch, clutch lever switch, neutral switch? You could try bypassing the entire system of interlocks and jumper the fuel pump directly to the battery and see if the bike starts. An ammeter in that line will indicate if the fuel pump is drawing excessive current. Link to comment
bmweerman Posted February 26, 2007 Author Share Posted February 26, 2007 ED...backing up a couple of steps... I have the ignition coil out of the bike and the primary coil reads .5 ohms exactly in spec. But, when I put the meter across the secondary terminals it shows an open circuit. That means the ignition coil is bad right? (or at least the secondary) Because there is voltage coming out of the motronic. Wouldn't it make the most sense to replace the ignition coil before going deeper. Does that make sense? Link to comment
bmwmick Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 ED...backing up a couple of steps... I have the ignition coil out of the bike and the primary coil reads .5 ohms exactly in spec. But, when I put the meter across the secondary terminals it shows an open circuit. That means the ignition coil is bad right? (or at least the secondary) Because there is voltage coming out of the motronic. Wouldn't it make the most sense to replace the ignition coil before going deeper. Does that make sense? Cameron, Yes, your coil is bad if you don't see about 7.5K Ohms on the secondary terminals. Easy fix. Are you SURE the 'buzzing' relay you heard isn't the injectors pulsing? A failed HES can cause the injectors to pulse uncontrollably and cause random sparks from the coil. Do you see any movement of your tach needle when it buzzes? I sent you a PM too. Mick Tucson Link to comment
bmweerman Posted February 27, 2007 Author Share Posted February 27, 2007 Mick..I'm not totally sure about the relays...the tach has done a couple of odd things, but haven't paid enough attention to describe it. Ordered a new ignition coil today and should be here Wed. If that fixes the problem should I just put it back together and be done or do the odd tach reading indicate more seriousl problems? Thanks Cameron Link to comment
bmwmick Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Cameron, If the tachometer needle wiggles with the ignition ON but with the engine OFF, it's one of the indicators of a failing HES harness. If the insulation is destroyed inside the harness down near the HES plate, the wires can partially short together. When this happens, the Motronic 'thinks' it sees Hall events and can erroneously send pulses to the coil (the tach is driven from this same circuit) and to the injectors. Install the new coil and then pay close attention to the symptoms (if any) before buttoning it up. Mick Link to comment
bmweerman Posted February 28, 2007 Author Share Posted February 28, 2007 10-4 Mick...thanks for the sound advice! Link to comment
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