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Autocom Questions From A Newbie


marcopolo

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After doing a series of searches here, and also getting direct advice from Fernando, I've decided to take the plunge and get an Autocom system for my R12RT. I'll be doing a cross-continent two-up ride to California this summer with my wife, and we both agreed it would be a lot more enjoyable if we could talk to each other on the bike. A rider-passenger intercom is, then, my primary interest. But we have an iPod Nano, so why not listen to tunes from time to time, and it would also be nice to hear GPS directions (I've got a Garmin 276C)?

 

I have made arrangements to buy directly from Top Gear (Autocom's US distributor), and have them install it on the bike, and into our helmets. They'll do this on our May long weekend -- they're about 300 miles south of us in Glenmont NY.

 

Now for some questions, the intent of which is to try and ensure that one week after I get the system I don’t say to myself, why didn’t I think of that beforehand? (Fernando graciously offered earlier to answer any detailed questions, but I thought he might need a break, though he’s more than welcome to chime in if he’s in the mood).

 

After doing a little research, I settled on the “Active-Plus Duo Kit” (Part #KIT200DUO), which would be hard wired to the bike using the “Battery Direct Power Connector” (Part #1546) to bypass the CANBUS. Any reason why this system wouldn’t do what I’m looking for?

 

I realize that even with the direct connection to the battery, installation still involves tapping into a power source, such as an accessory socket (I happen to have three on my bike – two up front L/R, and one L rear). Is one better than the others, for any reason (my GPS is already tapped into the L front socket)?

 

While we didn’t get into every little detail, the fellow at Top Gear mentioned installing the unit under the seat. Does that make the most sense (I’m not interested in putting it in the tank bag, though I imagine I’d stick the iPod in there -- where else for the iPod, in my pocket? I also can’t see the day when I’d want my cell phone hooked up, but never say never I guess. If I did, it would be in the tank bag presumably)?

 

Speaking of my iPod Nano, what do I need to hook it up to the Autocom? The Kit comes with a lead, I believe; is this all I need to “plug and play” the Nano? Do I also understand correctly that the iPod will be running off its own battery, and will not be charged as I ride along?

 

As for my GPS, it’s now hard-wired, but I presumably have to replace the power cord with Garmin’s motorcycle power/audio cable. It has a 2.5 mm female audio jack, but Garmin also sells a 2.5 mm to 3.5 mm jack adapter. Do I need that adapter (I believe I read that the Autocom has a 3.5 mm jack)?

 

Continuing on with the GPS, as best I can tell the Garmin audio jack is on the end of the cable right beside the power plug. As such, it would be right up by my handle bars (GPS mounted above clutch reservoir on left bar). Does the Autocom Duo Kit come with a lead to plug into the Garmin audio jack, or do I have to get one? Also, no matter whether I have to buy this GPS lead, or not, where should it run? You’re probably wondering why I’m asking this. Well, when my independent BMW tech wired the GPS, he removed my gas tank to run the wires. Before I go to Autocom, I will get him to install the replacement Garmin power cable (with audio jack). Obviously he’s going to take the tank off again, and I’m wondering whether I should get him to run an Autocom GPS lead while he’s in there (I don’t want Autocom taking off my tank, and suspect they’d have no interest in doing so anyway). I guess my real question is where should the Autocom GPS lead run? From the left handlebar area (where GPS is), under the gas tank and then to a spot under the seat? Any reason why you should not run such a cable under the gas tank?

 

As for my cell phone, if I do ever want to plug it in, what do I need; just a simple Autocom lead? Will any phone plug and play? Mine’s a one-year old LG. Does the Autocom lead just plug into the earphone jack?

 

I notice the Kit comes with straight leads to connect to the headsets in the helmets. Will we be happy with those, or do most people end up with the coiled leads eventually?

 

I should also mention that my RT has the BMW radio/CD player, but I have not considered wiring this into the Autocom at all (I see on their website that they have an installation instruction that talks about how to do that). Does it make sense to just forget about it?

 

As Donald Rumsfeld might say, those were the “known unknowns”. No doubt there are also “unknown unknowns”. Is there anything else I should be aware of, but didn’t think to ask?

 

Hopefully I haven’t put you all asleep.

smile.gif

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I'm sorry but the only way I can answer your question is to relate my own experience.

I turned up at the Autocom factory in the UK with my R1200RT with BMW CD/Radio and my SPIII satnav mounted on its bracket with power-cord.

I had to sit in the waiting room for a couple of hours reading motorcycle magazines (the entire staff are bike-mad)and then they called me out. They asked me to check everything was working satisfactorily (+2 helmets rewired) and I went off on my successful - but very wet - Scottish holiday. I could hear the BMW CD, radio, GPS commands and bike-to-bike radio. Everything - just perfect. They will fit and route all the leads AND check for unwanted electrical interference from the motor until they are happy that the system is performing optimally.

They did not remove the gas tank, though they did remove the tankbag-rails and fairing.

So my advice is to take all your bits and pieces that you want to test, tell them what you want and might want in the future (or give them a typed checklist if you'd feel more comfortable) and don't leave till you're satisfied.

Leave it to the experts and enjoy!

Definitely have the CD/radio wired in and definitely don't let your tech loose on the bike before you go -it's not necessary.

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Hi there. new to the forum but I recently picked up a new 1200rt and installed an autocom pro on it myself. But it was a little easier for me because I had the dealer install a Centech fuse panel on the bike for me so I didnt have the electrical issue down the road. This panel gives me plenty of places to wire in whatever I need.

 

Had no problem installing the autocom on the bike myself and I did take advantage of the storage space under the passanger seat to mount the unit. I did have to buy an extension audio cable to plug to my Ipod nano as I mounted the nano in the glove/radio box as I did not opt for the stereo system.

 

I velcroed the nano to the lid cover to the radio box but what I did here was buy and Ijet for the nano so I can lock the unit up without worrying about it. The Ijet comes with an RF remote that I velcroed to the left handle bar cluster and I can control the nano from there. This works great dont have to worry about the Nano touch wheel if I want to turn up the volume or change songs or just turn it off and the unit just stays locked in the box I take the remote drop it in my pocket and its secure.

 

well I will quite rambling on here now hope this helps if you have any questions or need pics taken please let me know.

heres a link to the Ijet

http://www.ijetwireless.com/iJetiPodNano.htm

one for the Centech

http://www.centechwire.com/marketing/spotlight.html

 

Dave

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Yes, put it under the seat. Sure, they'll know where and how to tap the CANBUS, so don't worry about it.

 

If you just use the helmet speakers, you'll probably eventually want the coiled cords, although the straight ones work fine. I have both, don't use either, as I switched to custom earphones, which require a splitter with a straight cord...much better sound for music, and ear protection in the bargain.

 

Regarding the Nano and the iJet suggestion, you can slap a little velcro just about anywhere to hold it in place, just have a wire run to where you want it. I don't see the advantage of the expensive iJet remote...I have an older ipod, keep it in the radio cubby, and have a $15-20 remote I bought at Radio Shack which works just fine. You can get a used ipod for peanuts on ebay, i expect.

 

The only issue I've ever had with Autcoms is the leads don't have caps on them; make sure your install doesn't have the plug ends facing up.

 

I use the Autocom on every ride, two up or solo.

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Installing the Autocom with the CANbus Bypass (part #1546) works just fine. You are taking power straight from the battery. The relay trip wire is what needs to be tapped into a switched lead going to an accessory port. It takes almost no power and since the accessory port is not CANbus protected for specific load (only max load) your bike won't even feel it.

 

If you are going to run your iPod off its own battery, the cable that comes with your Autocom will do the trick. And if you have the Autocom under the seat, keeping the iPod in the tankbag is ideal. If you plan to charge the iPod while it is in use, then you will need an isolated cable (part #1314). This cable has a Ground Loop Isolator and will eliminate the static created when connecting two bike-powered devices (i.e. the Autocom and the charging iPod). Again, if the iPod is going to run on its own, just use the straight cable from the kit. If the iPod is to charge while in use, use #1314.

 

The cable for the GPS is an option and does not come with the kit. I assume the GPS will be bike powered, so you will need a cable with an isolator in it (same reason as explained above). And it will have to be routed from where the GPS is mounted at the front of the bike to where the Autocom is located. With the cable in place, you should be good to go.

 

Any questions, just PM or call. If you're having Autocom do the install, you couldn't be in better hands.

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Survived-til-now

Hi

 

Don't know why you didn't tap into the aux power socket so the power is switched off by the Canbus - or are you going to sit on the bike boogying to the music with the ignition switched off?

 

Under the pillion seat is good for getting the various leads to where they need to be....

 

A tip on your mobile phone. I find that I have to plug in the little adaptor (that slots/plugs into the phone) before I plug the autocom jack plug into the adaptor - or the phone (Nokia's) doesnt recognise it is talking to the autocom.

 

Also - doesn't forget to set up all the options on your phone menu for 1. headset and 2. automatic answer

 

Lastly I have used Autcom for years now and don't have much to report on it at all - that is because it does exactly what it says it does - works brilliantly and (having wired it to the Canbus controlled aux socket - all I have to do is plug the lead from my helmet into the female lead when i get on the bike

 

One last last bit of advice - I always tell people phoning me that I am on the bike when they call- That saves them giving me information to write down and also helps explain the sometimes interrupted conversation when I am in heavy traffic and break off to concentrate on what I am doing...

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  • 2 weeks later...
MarkEngland

I am also installing a new Autocom (Active-Plus) myself and cannot seem to find where the "Canbus controlled aux socket" is located. I "assume" this is how I can get the audio output from my factory BMW radio to the Autocom system to end up in my helmet. I ride solo thus I do not need the Intercom, but I do use the FRS radio (so I ordered the PTT switch).

 

Attached is a drawing that shows what (and how) I am installing. I also ordered from Top Gear.

 

Any suggestions on how to get the audio from the radio to the Autocom would be great.

 

Thanks

Mark

821155-Autocomlayoutv3.jpg.a5ed7fdc67092e224641035533c09a1a.jpg

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I am also installing a new Autocom (Active-Plus) myself and cannot seem to find where the "Canbus controlled aux socket" is located. I "assume" this is how I can get the audio output from my factory BMW radio to the Autocom system to end up in my helmet. I ride solo thus I do not need the Intercom, but I do use the FRS radio (so I ordered the PTT switch).

 

Attached is a drawing that shows what (and how) I am installing. I also ordered from Top Gear.

 

Any suggestions on how to get the audio from the radio to the Autocom would be great.

 

Thanks

Mark

 

The "CANbus-controlled Aux socket" is on the bike, not on the Autocom. It's your accessory port. On the 1200RT it's on the left hand fairing approximately below the left handgrip.

 

To get audio from the radio to your Autocom you will need to tap into your speaker wires (don't worry, they're not CANbus protected) using part 1319. The other end of 1319 plugs into your Autocom's music port.

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John Bentall
I am also installing a new Autocom (Active-Plus) myself and cannot seem to find where the "Canbus controlled aux socket" is located. I "assume" this is how I can get the audio output from my factory BMW radio to the Autocom system to end up in my helmet. I ride solo thus I do not need the Intercom, but I do use the FRS radio (so I ordered the PTT switch).

 

Attached is a drawing that shows what (and how) I am installing. I also ordered from Top Gear.

 

Any suggestions on how to get the audio from the radio to the Autocom would be great.

 

Thanks

Mark

 

The difference between the 1319 and the 1321 is that one can switch off the bike speakers with the 1321.

For the FRS one can either use VOX (voice activation) to switch on the radio or a PTT switch. The idea of the PTT switch is that anything said to the pillion will not automatically be broadcast over the FRS. If you don't carry a pillion, you don't strictly need a PTT switch. I ran without one for 4 years, but have one now.

The is also a wire for the second, optional CAN-BUS-controlled socket at the rear of the bike. You can tap into this if you're mounting the Autocom in the tail.

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I switched to custom earphones, which require a splitter with a straight cord...much better sound for music, and ear protection in the bargain.

 

I just purchased a Active-Plus and I'm interested in knowing more about earphone options. I don't want to give up hearing protection (or much of it) if it's not necessary. What earphones are you using? Thanks.

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I am also installing a new Autocom (Active-Plus) myself and cannot seem to find where the "Canbus controlled aux socket" is located. I "assume" this is how I can get the audio output from my factory BMW radio to the Autocom system to end up in my helmet. I ride solo thus I do not need the Intercom, but I do use the FRS radio (so I ordered the PTT switch).

 

Attached is a drawing that shows what (and how) I am installing. I also ordered from Top Gear.

 

Any suggestions on how to get the audio from the radio to the Autocom would be great.

 

Thanks

Mark

 

There is a PDF file on the Autocom UK website that explains how to tap into the R12RT's factory radio. It would seem that in this instruction Autocom is using part #1321 to tap into the bike stereo, as they talk about drilling to install a toggle switch (see pic in link). On the US Autocom site, if you search for part# 1321, the description mentions a switch that allows you to toggle between bike and helmet speakers. Part #1321 is $105, whereas part #1319 is $65.

 

This link will take you to the installation instructions from the UK site:

 

http://www.autocom.co.uk/pdf/BMW_RT_Switched_Music.pdf

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MarkEngland
On the 1200RT it's on the left hand fairing approximately below the left handgrip.
I must be blind, because the only port I have is right below my radio controls and that is a powerlet, not an AUX plug. crazy.gif
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John Bentall
On the 1200RT it's on the left hand fairing approximately below the left handgrip.
I must be blind, because the only port I have is right below my radio controls and that is a powerlet, not an AUX plug. crazy.gif

Mark,

There are many, many names for that socket. That is indeed

the AUX socket.

Autocom tap into the wires for the rear socket, but you can equally well use the front socket if you wish.

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MarkEngland
On the 1200RT it's on the left hand fairing approximately below the left handgrip.
I must be blind, because the only port I have is right below my radio controls and that is a powerlet, not an AUX plug. crazy.gif

Mark,

There are many, many names for that socket. That is indeed

the AUX socket.

Autocom tap into the wires for the rear socket, but you can equally well use the front socket if you wish.

 

let me ask a really stupid question (or make a really stupid statement). This socket is a "power" socket, not an AUX audio socket - correct??

 

Are we confusing the term AUX. My definition of an AUX socket in this context is for "Audio", not "Auxiliary power"

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On the 1200RT it's on the left hand fairing approximately below the left handgrip.
I must be blind, because the only port I have is right below my radio controls and that is a powerlet, not an AUX plug. crazy.gif

 

You have the position correct. Perhaps my description of the location wasn't as good as it could have been. As for it being a powerlet plug, "Powerlet" is the name of a company that makes an aftermarket plug similar to the plug BMW uses on its bikes. This plug is commonly refered to as an auxiliary (AUX) plug or an accessory plug.

 

Either way, that is the plug from which you can tap into the positive lead for the relay trigger for the Autocom's CANbus bypass. Or, as John Bentall pointed out, there is a lead coming off the wiring harness that is intended for the optional plug which can be installed at the left rear of the bike. It, too, can provide power to the relay. Just make sure you KNOW FOR CERTAIN that you are tapping into the correct wire.

 

let me ask a really stupid question (or make a really stupid statement). This socket is a "power" socket, not an AUX audio socket - correct??

 

Are we confusing the term AUX. My definition of an AUX socket in this context is for "Audio", not "Auxiliary power"

 

There aren't any stupid questions on this site. We're all here to help each other.

 

In this case, AUX was used to refer to Auxliary power. The R1200RT does not have an external audio socket of any kind.

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MarkEngland
In this case, AUX was used to refer to Auxliary power. The R1200RT does not have an external audio socket of any kind.
Thanks and that clears up a lot.

I am still researching the rumor that thier is a "3 series car adapter" that plugs directly into the back of the factory radio that allows external audio devices to connect. This adapter is made for BMW cars, but works perfectly on the RT.

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John Bentall
In this case, AUX was used to refer to Auxliary power. The R1200RT does not have an external audio socket of any kind.
Thanks and that clears up a lot.

I am still researching the rumor that thier is a "3 series car adapter" that plugs directly into the back of the factory radio that allows external audio devices to connect. This adapter is made for BMW cars, but works perfectly on the RT.

 

The rumor is true

have a look at this thread

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/sh...true#Post748784

 

hope this helps.

john

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I am also installing a new Autocom (Active-Plus) myself and cannot seem to find where the "Canbus controlled aux socket" is located. I "assume" this is how I can get the audio output from my factory BMW radio to the Autocom system to end up in my helmet. I ride solo thus I do not need the Intercom, but I do use the FRS radio (so I ordered the PTT switch).

 

Attached is a drawing that shows what (and how) I am installing. I also ordered from Top Gear.

 

Any suggestions on how to get the audio from the radio to the Autocom would be great.

 

Thanks

Mark

 

There is a PDF file on the Autocom UK website that explains how to tap into the R12RT's factory radio. It would seem that in this instruction Autocom is using part #1321 to tap into the bike stereo, as they talk about drilling to install a toggle switch (see pic in link). On the US Autocom site, if you search for part# 1321, the description mentions a switch that allows you to toggle between bike and helmet speakers. Part #1321 is $105, whereas part #1319 is $65.

 

This link will take you to the installation instructions from the UK site:

 

http://www.autocom.co.uk/pdf/BMW_RT_Switched_Music.pdf

 

Another option is to use Autocom part number 1319 and connect to the unused rear speaker pins on the back of the radio. This will let you switch from bike to helmet speakers using the radio fade button and you dont have to tap into the speaker wires or drill a hole for a switch.

Ian thumbsup.gif

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More info:

Pins 3, 6, 12 and 14 are used on the back of the radio when using Autocom part number 1319.

Ian

 

Not being particularly mechanically inclined (an understatement), I'm a little baffled by "tapping into" my R12RT's OEM radio/CD using either part #1319, or part #1321. Ian, let's say I wanted to try connecting to the back of the radio using part #1319, is this in addition to all other hook-ups needed to install an Autocom system, or do some of the other parts/procedures become redundant? BTW, I'm planning on an Active-Plus Duo kit, and was debating whether to somehow connect the bike's stereo to the Autocom (I was not planning to do this myself, BTW).

 

Put another way, if I had "Party A" install Autocom Kit200 Duo using the direct-to-battery hook-up (part #1546), with relay, could I then have "Party B" connect my bike radio/CD to the Autocom (at some later date) using either the method Autocom describes on their site (tapping into the bikes speaker wires), or by making the connection to the back of the radio as you talk about, using part #1319? Your method seems to be the better answer in terms of using the existing radio controls to switch from bike to helmet speakers.

 

The reason I ask is that the outfit ("Party A") who would likely install the Autocom Kit (on bike and into my helmets) has so far seemed somewhat less than enthusiastic about addressing the Autocom-to-bike radio/CD question.

 

Ian, how easy (difficult?) is it to get to the back of the radio and make this connection? Do you have to do major surgery on part #1319 to connect it to the radio? How/where is the other end of that cable connected? Do you need a PhD in engineering?

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MarkEngland
Another option is to use Autocom part number 1319 and connect to the unused rear speaker pins on the back of the radio. This will let you switch from bike to helmet speakers using the radio fade button and you dont have to tap into the speaker wires or drill a hole for a switch.

Ian thumbsup.gif

Ian, Can you explain this further? Since I have never used the bike radio yet (waiting on my Autocom to arive), I have never used the Fade you meantioned. I like the idea of no drilling to install a switch.

 

Thanks

Mark

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Not being particularly mechanically inclined (an understatement), I'm a little baffled by "tapping into" my R12RT's OEM radio/CD using either part #1319, or part #1321. Ian, let's say I wanted to try connecting to the back of the radio using part #1319, is this in addition to all other hook-ups needed to install an Autocom system, or do some of the other parts/procedures become redundant? BTW, I'm planning on an Active-Plus Duo kit, and was debating whether to somehow connect the bike's stereo to the Autocom (I was not planning to do this myself, BTW).

 

Put another way, if I had "Party A" install Autocom Kit200 Duo using the direct-to-battery hook-up (part #1546), with relay, could I then have "Party B" connect my bike radio/CD to the Autocom (at some later date) using either the method Autocom describes on their site (tapping into the bikes speaker wires), or by making the connection to the back of the radio as you talk about, using part #1319? Your method seems to be the better answer in terms of using the existing radio controls to switch from bike to helmet speakers.

 

The reason I ask is that the outfit ("Party A") who would likely install the Autocom Kit (on bike and into my helmets) has so far seemed somewhat less than enthusiastic about addressing the Autocom-to-bike radio/CD question.

 

Autocom comes with two accessory cables. One for a self-powered music device and one to be used with a common cell phone connection. Rather than make people pay for a bunch of extra cables they may never use, Autocom allows you to purchase only those extra cables separately, so you only spend on what you need to purchase. The 1319 or 1321 cable is an option. Not everyone has an automotive-type radio on their motorcycle. But LT's and some RT's do.

 

Yes, you can connect and use your Autocom as an intercom, including connecting of an external, self-powered music device (if you want to connect a bike-powered music source, such as XM, it requires a different cable), and go back in later and install a 1319 or 1321 in order to feed your bike's radio output into your helmets.

 

If you're not familiar with Autocom, or you don't understand its multiple-input connectivity, I understand completely how confusing it can be to try and figure out how this is all going to work, even if you read it here, talk to someone on the phone, or look at their website. But I can assure you that once you see the kit and lay it out on a table, along with whatever optional cables are needed to satisfy your personal configuration, it becomes very clear and you will understand it quite well.

 

If the person(s) installing your Autocom are reluctant to go much further than a simple installation, then by all means wait until you get to a competent installer to have your bike's built-in radio connected to the intercom.

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Another option is to use Autocom part number 1319 and connect to the unused rear speaker pins on the back of the radio. This will let you switch from bike to helmet speakers using the radio fade button and you dont have to tap into the speaker wires or drill a hole for a switch.

Ian thumbsup.gif

Ian, Can you explain this further? Since I have never used the bike radio yet (waiting on my Autocom to arive), I have never used the Fade you meantioned. I like the idea of no drilling to install a switch.

 

Thanks

Mark

 

Mark

Have a play with your radio using the bike speakers, check your handbook and you will see how the fade works (same as in your car fading from front to rear speakers).

Baehr, another manufacturer of units similar to Autocom do not splice into the speaker wires on the RT but use the method I described (check their website for detailed instructions) 4 x BMW connectors are required.

I would suggest having your Autocom fitted and then having the BMW radio connected ( using cable 1319) by your BMW dealer who should know which connectors are required and which spare pins on the back of the radio to use.

I am sorry I do not have photos etc but I have not yet fitted my autocom.

Hope this helps.

Ian smile.gif

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Thanks Fernando, and Ian. Clearly, I studied the wrong things in school. frown.gif

 

Next Monday I'm heading off to see JakFrost's (of this board) R12RT with his Autocom fitted. Maybe it will all be clearer then. smirk.gif

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I switched to custom earphones, which require a splitter with a straight cord...much better sound for music, and ear protection in the bargain.

 

I just purchased a Active-Plus and I'm interested in knowing more about earphone options. I don't want to give up hearing protection (or much of it) if it's not necessary. What earphones are you using? Thanks.

 

Ben,

 

One option you have is to use the standard Autocom headset speakers with earplugs. When placed properly, the Autocom speakers are loud enough on the high volume setting to work well with earplugs in. They actually don't sound too bad either. I prefer this solution because it is difficult to put on a helmet without dislodging earphones and I've yet to find a set of in-ear phones which remain comfortable all day.

 

Dave

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MarkEngland

marcopolo,

After much review, homework and reading, I believe the install is really simple. The hardest part seems to get the radio out of the bike to plug in the BMW car cable that I ordered today. Finding the right BMW part number for the cable was another challange, but I think I ordered the right one. I will know this Friday. smile.gif

 

I will be taking lots of PICs and writing up a how-to article and posting on my website when I am done (about 2 weeks). I will also post a link here.

 

Attached is how I plan to hook up my Autocom (I ride solo). As meantioned, once you lay it out or draw it as I have done, it becomes very simple.

 

FYI: If the PIC is not large enough, drop me an email and I will send the full version.

 

Mark

822057-Autocomlayoutv5.thumb.jpg.3cb0f6509df4a2a39504169d23924c57.jpg

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marcopolo,

After much review, homework and reading, I believe the install is really simple. The hardest part seems to get the radio out of the bike to plug in the BMW car cable that I ordered today. Finding the right BMW part number for the cable was another challange, but I think I ordered the right one. I will know this Friday. smile.gif

 

I will be taking lots of PICs and writing up a how-to article and posting on my website when I am done (about 2 weeks). I will also post a link here.

 

Attached is how I plan to hook up my Autocom (I ride solo). As meantioned, once you lay it out or draw it as I have done, it becomes very simple.

 

FYI: If the PIC is not large enough, drop me an email and I will send the full version.

 

Mark

 

Looking forward to the write-up of your installation. Also sent you an e-mail for the larger version of the schematic. Thanks.

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MarkEngland
Mark, Have a play with your radio using the bike speakers, check your handbook and you will see how the fade works (same as in your car fading from front to rear speakers).

Baehr, another manufacturer of units similar to Autocom do not splice into the speaker wires on the RT but use the method I described (check their website for detailed instructions) 4 x BMW connectors are required.

I would suggest having your Autocom fitted and then having the BMW radio connected ( using cable 1319) by your BMW dealer who should know which connectors are required and which spare pins on the back of the radio to use.

I am sorry I do not have photos etc but I have not yet fitted my autocom.

Hope this helps.

Ian smile.gif

Ian, I was thinking "way too complicated". Such a simple solution wized (is this a word) right past me. I tried the fade option on my bike and love this solution. Only one question, since the RT does not have rear speakers, where are the wires I can tie into?? My dealer is not good in such areas. I'm hoping someone has already done this.

 

Thanks for a great solution.

Mark

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Mark, Have a play with your radio using the bike speakers, check your handbook and you will see how the fade works (same as in your car fading from front to rear speakers).

Baehr, another manufacturer of units similar to Autocom do not splice into the speaker wires on the RT but use the method I described (check their website for detailed instructions) 4 x BMW connectors are required.

I would suggest having your Autocom fitted and then having the BMW radio connected ( using cable 1319) by your BMW dealer who should know which connectors are required and which spare pins on the back of the radio to use.

I am sorry I do not have photos etc but I have not yet fitted my autocom.

Hope this helps.

Ian smile.gif

Ian, I was thinking "way too complicated". Such a simple solution wized (is this a word) right past me. I tried the fade option on my bike and love this solution. Only one question, since the RT does not have rear speakers, where are the wires I can tie into?? My dealer is not good in such areas. I'm hoping someone has already done this.

 

Thanks for a great solution.

Mark

 

Mark

There are no wires, you have to connec to the spare rear speaker pins on the back of the radio (with Autocom part number 1319) Pins 3, 6, 12 and 14.

You will have to get the right sized connectors from BMW.

I think the radio is the same as in the 2003 BMW 325i, check with your dealer.

Ian thumbsup.gif

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MarkEngland
Mark

There are no wires, you have to connec to the spare rear speaker pins on the back of the radio (with Autocom part number 1319) Pins 3, 6, 12 and 14.

You will have to get the right sized connectors from BMW.

I think the radio is the same as in the 2003 BMW 325i, check with your dealer.

Ian thumbsup.gif

Ian, I assume I need another BMW cable besides the one I already ordered (82-11-0-149-389)? I have an Autocom 1319 cable in my order that is due this week.

Mark

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  • 4 weeks later...
MarkEngland

Thought I would post an update as I have finished my "audio" project.

 

I now have MP3 audio "into" my BMW factory radio

-and-

I now have audio "out" into my Autocom via the rear speaker connections.

 

I have posted a write up on my website with part numbers that are valid in the U.S. as many of the part numbers I found were for the U.K. and third party companies.

 

Thanks to everyone who posted advice and part numbers.

 

http://www.kc6tew.com/modifications/rtmods/radiomod/radiomod.html

 

Note: I found that the Garmin 2820 has a built in pre-amp so the UK154 is not needed like it is with other MP3 players. This was good news.

 

Mark

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